308 Weber to TWM throttle body and electromotive

meee toooo about the final numbers. i wish i could find someone who has the wintec electromotive software running on a 308 where i can just look at their BIN file and compare. that would be too easy......i still cant believe the sound out of these throttle bodies - nothing like the ol webers, very raw sounding - shreiking - took my buddy for a ride yesterday and the hair on the back of his neck is still upright!!! He definately noticed a difference from before - definite improvement - but not good for listening to the stereo - lol..

 

Hi folks. Here is an update on the car so far. Went to the dyno yesterday, and made a lot of tweaks to the software and the car itself (linkage). We backed off the throttle at 6600rpm for the pulls, but as you can see from the graphs, the car was still increasing in power at that point, so, I assume the peak power is somewhere around 7200 – 7800 rpm, since i can pull strong to 7800 rpm while driving. Anyway, the car made 207 HP at the wheels at 6600 rpm. Not bad numbers for a mile hi, although the mechanic said the dyno was normalized for sea level. I think I can make more power, but we had to quit for several reasons. Once the engine got warmed up, the linkage was sticking on the TWMs – I think I can fix that. Also, for driveability, I need to pull MAP from several ports on the intake manifolds rather than just one – so as to smooth out the signal – this fluctuation in MAP made it real hard to dial in. At any rate, I am pleased with my results – up a good 25 hp from my weber setup. The car pulls strong now up to redline – 7800rpm. Where as before I could only pull hard to about 6200 rpm at this altitude with the webers. Once I get these things resolved, I would like to go back to the dyno and do more tweaks. In the graphs attached, solid lines is the good run, and the dotted lines are previous runs the same day – noticeable improvements. Any suggestions on timing? I am starting at 14 degrees, linear to 4000 rpm with 40 degrees, and 40 degrees to redline. also, any comments on the A/F ratio????
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I sure learned a lot yesterday at the dyno. All testing was done with the individual air cleaners in place so i could access the linkage when needed. I think the stock airbox with the extra cold air coming in will give better power on the road – so I may want to richen er up a bit anyway. I still need to resolve the issues with throttle sticking and grabbing stable manifold pressure – but all in all, I am very happy with the results so far. And as a bonus – no vapor lock issues!!

 

yes Mark, all issues resolved except for the throttles sticking and grabbing stable manifold pressure. the stock airbox fits snug and there are no clearance issues - note, i had to redesign and reroute pcv system for the airbox, among other things. and i will get it to run richer - just a flick of 2 numbers in the software - hit RETURN, and the ECU is programmed to a new mixture - no mo changing jets!!! 10 years of that action wears on ya....

stay tuned (no punk intended) for further updates!!!!!

 

Sean, I am running 9.8:1 borgo pistons, not sure what the euro cam specs are for my car, but i got em. with your comp ratio, this setup would be great for your car - especially at sea level - these TBs deliver a whole lot of air air!!!!!

 

Time for an update on the conversion. The car is running sooo smooth, no lag or any flat spots in the throttle – runs right up to 8000 rpm at altitude without a hitch (the ol webers stopped pulling at 6200rpm at 5200 feet above sea level) – pulls like a mule. And the sound just blows away the webers – possibly due to no restriction in the throttle body throats. Car fires up just by bumping the key and no foot on the throttle. And there is absolutely no vapor lock, and the garage doesnt stink of gas anymore. I am very happy with the conversion, electromotive and TWM. I have noticed that spark plugs that run off the same coil and the same injector firing will have different coloring and I cannot figure out why. Different throttle bodies, but again, same firing from the computer (note electromotive tecgt has phased sequential – meaning I get a waste spark and a waste shot of fuel for the same 2 cylinders). Plug on one cylinder shows perfect tan color – while its sister plug shows much darker and sooty – any comments on that would be appreciated. Got the stock airbox hooked up and bringing in cool air from both sides made a big difference - at the dyno i had individual air cleaners installed and they were pulling in hot air - so i think i am making more power with stock airbox than when at the dyno. Still tweaking parameters with my laptop – starting, accel and decel enrichments, enrichments due to ambient air temp and water temp, but after the last dyno run – my mixture looks to be spot on. I want to hook up a barametric pressure sensor because I think that will work better than relying on the O2 sensor for altitude variations. Last dyno run – was making 221hp at the wheels at 7900rpm and was still climbing!!
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yes, i agree that i can do a cylinder trim, but these 2 plugs are on the same phased circuit, so a trim would affect both cylinders. plugs 1 and 4 by the way, same bank, same cam, but different throttle bodies - so i can double check the sync - thanks

 

final installation - pretty clean. most folks at the shows couldnt tell i yanked the carbs. since i have the non US model, i had no insulation in airbox. tapping the airbox into the drivers side scoop is letting a lot of cold ram air and giving the driver the sound sensation that the passenger has, and everything clears the oil filter with those two ports instead of one down the middle. (see my thread on modding the airbox)
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Time for another update on the conversion. I have finally installed the vacuum manifold to capture vacuum from the rear bank (4 cylinders) for the MAP sensor. Before, I was only getting vacuum off one cylinder and that was playing havoc with the ECU. With only one cylinder connected, the MAP signal would fluctuate as much as 30KPa for any given load or RPM. Now, with this manifold plumbed in, the MAP readings are VERY stable (fluctuates 2-3 KPa max), which makes for a VERY tuneable setup.
My car runs fantastic now, I don’t think I picked up any more peak HP from before the manifold install because the car was tuned for WOT. But, the driveability is greatly improved, off throttle response, cruising, accelerating and starting are seamless. This has been a great project for me, I learned a lot and this has caught the eye of Forza MAG. Looks like this mod, my car and me will be featured in one of their issues. i will keep you all posted on that!
happy motoring!!!!!!1
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In this post and another you described your fuel system layout. Did you remove the right side tank and add a fitting for the return line, or did you use the tiny original hose fitting and find it adequate?
Thanks

no, I used the original small return line to the tank, and it seems more than adequate.

as soon as i get some tuning issues sorted - i will go back to the dyno and post a graph. currently i am having TPS issues.