308 + White Smoke + Oil in Coolant

Was this the car that was on Craigslist here a couple of months ago? There has been some discussion here about one. Where are you located?

Your problem could have a few possible causes.

Failed head gasket

Cracked head

Cracked cylinder liner

Just to name the most likely.

The first thing to check would be to pressure test the cooling system and try to determine where the leak is. A cylinder leakdown test might show bubbles in the coolant header tank from the affected cylinder/s.

The rear head might be removable "in the car", the front one is not.

The heads on these engines (especially an older, probably unloved specimen) can be a real sonofa***** to get off and some guys have fabricated pullers for the job. Even then it ain't easy.

If you decide to "dig in" keep in mind that it isn't a Chevy and that just the gaskets will cost as much as what you'd spend to build a 350 small block. Check Ricambi's site for some prices. There are too many variables to quote a total number but it will probably cost thousands of $ even if you do it yourself and know what you're doing.

Good Luck, keep us posted.

 

Ok so you confirmed the oil inside the coolant, I'm just curious if if the water is getting in the oil. Remove the oil cap and see if it has the creamy like color.

 

likely a head gasket but as said above could be cracked head/cyl liner
Simple compression test might show which cylinder the problem is in.

 

I'd wager gasket or head. A cracked liner would show coolant in the oil rather than vice versa.
If the car sat in freezing temps I hope the anti-freeze was up to spec.

 

I think http://www.superformance.co.uk/a-308/eg.htm has the best price for original headgaskets.

 

living in Europe i order all my stuff at Superperformance. Never had an unsoved issue.
Never waited for more than a couple of days for delivery.
On quality; they do deliver too! ( headgasket = elring = one of the best available brands)
On price: they seldom can be beaten.

 

You can't answer that question until it's off the car but it can likely be fixed. Call me when you get that far.

 

To my knowledge there is only one manufacture in the world making head gaskets for 308's, Elring. Never heard any complaints against Superformance.

Could simply be a loose bunch of head studs. Probably too late now to try re-torquing them, but doubtful the heads cracked. Its possible but not common. Wont know till you pull it off. When the head comes off you will plainly see if the gasket is blown or not. Though that in itself is not any indication the gasket wasn't leaking if the studs were loose.

Pull the plugs, they should tell you which cylinders are getting wet. You don't need to pull both heads, just the one that's leaking.

 

Being in a similar boat, I had an excellent mechanic (FastRadio) do a leakdown test on my engine as well as have my engine oil sent out for analysis (Blackstone Labs, they offer engine oil analysis kits online).

Another test is to have a 4-Gas analyzer probe placed inside your coolant expansion tank while the engine is running - look at the PPM of the CO2 levels (after you've zeroized the meter), if you're over 50-75 (and climbing) then you have combustion gases bubbling-through your coolant. That all points to a blown head gasket (mine were over 100, btw).

My car sat for a long, LONG time as yours did so this isn't anything 'new' apparently. If you appear to have a head gasket compromise, I would re-torque the head bolts immediately. You may catch it in time, and not have to pull the heads outright.

 

You can re-torque the heads with the engine in-place. Just pull the Cam Covers off and obtain the special 'Head Bolt Wrench' that fits over the exposed nuts in the recesses of the block. I believe Ted Rutlands will allow you to rent the wrench from them. If you have the time, I'd go that route FIRST. If the heads re-torque, and the head gasket seals back up, then you're home free and you don't have to pull the engine at all.

If re-torquing the heads doesn't work, then you're screwed - motor must come out. PM Fastradio.....

 

No special wrench needed for the 2-valve heads (it's needed for the 4-valve heads).

 

Early to think about pulling the engine isn't it? Inspection of the plugs, a leakdown test, etc, should help point out where the problem is. If the rear-most bank has a headgasket or head issue, couldn't this be fixed without pulling the engine? Once the engine is out, the expense of the repair skyrockets with all the "this is a good time to replace ..." decisions that will follow.

 

The motor does not have to be removed to pull either head. The rear one's quite easy, the front one you have to slide the motor back to gain clearance. Not as easy as the front, but doable in the car, just be careful, use common sense, and think.

With further thought, I would be a bit leery of re-torquing the head after its already blowing coolant. If the gasket eroded in the leak area, clamping pressures could warp or crack the head as it sinks into the lower area. Better just to pull the head and assess the damage.

I believe in most cases the heads come right off and no one ever hears a word about it. Its the horror stories that gain attention. Try pulling it, if it wont come off, then think about pulling the engine.

 

There are really only two major concerns, IMHO. Getting the deck lid off without any damage, and NOT breaking the rear glass (very $$$$), or damaging anything else that's $$$$ lifting the engine in or out. A 3/8 inch piece of plywood will slip into the drain trough behind the rear glass and with a towel over it to protect the paint on the roof, can be used as protection against the the engine mashing the rear of the car. Just make sure to tell anyone helping you that anything that touches anything else = BAD, and is very $$$$$$$$$$.

 

I've done the front one in the car...Never again!

Candidly, for the effort required and with a quality job in mind, it's just not worth it. Furthermore, on a QV, if the heads are stuck to the studs, the engine's coming out as there's just no room for any leverage.

For the extra hour or two, after you've "slid the engine" back, you can get her out of the car...and do a perfect job and deal with all of the other engine "issues", with ease.

Neither head is easy if corrosion has set in on the studs...2V or 4V.

David

 

I agree with all of that, no argument. Just stating that it can be done in the car. I also feel it depends on the particular year, how much emission stuff is on it, if the headers are still wrapped, etc..

If your planning to do drive bearings along with a full service, and you have a blown head gasket to top it off, pulling the whole lump really does make good economic sense.

If you really want to experience true masochism, try removing the front header from an early carbed GTB from underneath without pulling the fuel tank. I mean I pulled it out through the frame and put in a different one. Wouldn't have ever happened if it was wrapped, and I wont do that again either. Well, maybe if someone paid me a LOT of money. Pulling the front head in the car wouldn't scare me any, but not if I had all the rest to do, too.