308 window manual crank problem

I'm rebuilding my window mechanisms and am trying to resolve something while I still have them apart. My manual window crank works but makes an awful ratchet noise when used. I discovered that it does not fully disengage the saw teeth between the two pulleys well enough. I would like to know if the tip of my crank appears too worn to acccomplish a proper release. It does not seem too bad but I have no other crank to compare it with or try out to test my theory. Let me know if any of you have any insight or experience to this issue.

I also cannot figure out how to separate the pulleys to see what is inside this section of the mechanism. Does anyone know how to do this?

Thanks.
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Verell,

This crank does work the passenger side perfectly (no grinding ratchet noise). So maybe it's just the driver's side internal pulley surface that's the more worn aspect.

I got the drivers side system back up and running great last night. Your (old) post was very helpful. Especially the part about tying off the cables where they exit at the pulley BEFORE removing the assembly from the door (I used a zip tie). Sure enough, most of the problem was epoxy-like grease. Part of my rebuild included changing out the 5 pulleys to ball bearing types which I acquired at the hardware store in the form of sliding screen door parts - $5/pair. While I was at it, I also replaced the felt channel track liners with a substitute I discovered (by trial and error) locally - for 1963-1967 Fords and Mercurys or 1966-1971 Fairlanes and Comets ($6 + shipping for and 8' piece).

The window goes up a bit slow (5-6 sec.) but is 2000% better. Down is faster too (2-3 sec.). Before re-installing the motor I ran it on the bench without the pulley assembly attached - 11.84 volts and 1.4 amps draw off a spare car battery I have with 12.3 volts (at no load). After installation, I traced the in car circuit and noted that the voltage to the motor is only 8-9 volts under load and about 5-6 amps draw now. I suspected the Bosch relay contacts were worn so I jumped (bypassed) terminals #30 & #86 on the relay's socket. It did not improve the operation or change the readings at all but does allow for window movement without the key on. When I connect a car battery direct to the motor leads while in place, the window goes up and down equally fast (2-3 sec.) - voltage is 10.6 and amps 4. So now I know the internal circuit has some problems somewhere - perhaps it's just the long length of wiring inherent to the original installation. My ground connections at the door (tan) wires are good (< .2 ohms to the main chassis) and I'm getting about 12 volts everywhere when no load is applied to the circuit.

Today I will be attacking the passenger side system which should take me half the time now that I know what to do. This car is a blast to work on!