308 window motor, pulleys and channel rebuild | FerrariChat
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308 window motor, pulleys and channel rebuild

Discussion in '308/328' started by chairpilot, Dec 2, 2007.

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  1. chairpilot

    chairpilot Formula 3

    Mar 3, 2007
    1,547
    LA, CA & Olympia, WA
    Full Name:
    PlateClipGuys
    #1 chairpilot, Dec 2, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I've noted this information in another post but am putting here as a second source of reference for future searches.

    I got the drivers side system back up and running great last night. Verell's (old) post was very helpful. Especially the part about tying off the cables where they exit at the pulley BEFORE removing the assembly from the door (I used a zip tie). Sure enough, most of the problem was epoxy-like grease. Part of my rebuild included changing out the 5 pulleys to ball bearing types which I acquired at the hardware store in the form of sliding screen door parts - $5/pair. While I was at it, I also replaced the felt channel track liners with a substitute I discovered (by trial and error) locally - for 1963-1967 Fords and Mercurys or 1966-1971 Fairlanes and Comets ($6 + shipping for and 8' piece).

    The window goes up a bit slow (5-6 sec.) but is 2000% better. Down is faster too (2-3 sec.). Before re-installing the motor I ran it on the bench without the pulley assembly attached - 11.84 volts and 1.4 amps draw off a spare car battery I have with 12.3 volts (at no load). After installation, I traced the in car circuit and noted that the voltage to the motor is only 8-9 volts under load and about 5-6 amps draw now. I suspected the Bosch relay contacts were worn so I jumped (bypassed) terminals #30 & #86 on the relay's socket. It did not improve the operation or change the readings at all but does allow for window movement without the key on. When I connect a car battery direct to the motor leads while in place, the window goes up and down equally fast (2-3 sec.) - voltage is 10.6 and amps 4. So now I know the internal circuit has some problems somewhere - perhaps it's just the long length of wiring inherent to the original installation. My ground connections at the door (tan) wires are good (< .2 ohms to the main chassis) and I'm getting about 12 volts everywhere when no load is applied to the circuit.

    Today I will be attacking the passenger side system which should take me half the time now that I know what to do. This car is a blast to work on!
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  2. pad

    pad Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2004
    1,426
    Tequesta, FL
    Full Name:
    Paul Delatush
    #2 pad, Dec 2, 2007
    Bob,

    Can you post the mfg/part # for the pulleys?
     
  3. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    #3 Verell, Dec 2, 2007
    Technically they're called screen door rollers. They're made by several companies. They're in the hardware bin sections of ACE & TrueValue HW stores. Just take your old roller in & match it up. Typically about $2 each.

    BTW, Here's the window service thread in the Old FerrariChat Bob was referring to:

    Fix for slow windows on 308-328-Mondial
    http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/114996.html
     
  4. david

    david Formula Junior

    Feb 21, 2001
    809
    Northwest
    Full Name:
    david
    #4 david, Feb 22, 2009
    I just completed the window motor rebuild. I used the very instructive notes on Birdman's site. I know that Verell has contributed to this as well. Fantastic help from all you guys. I couldn't find the thread that had the link to birdman's write up so I'm dropping a few comments here. I didn't replace the pulleys with the ball bearing pulleys. I just cleaned the originals and regreased them with white lithium grease. There was no sign of wear and I think these will go another 30 years. I have to admit the ball bearing pulleys sound like they would be pretty cool though.

    One thing I did while the doors were apart. I took some rubber tubing and sliced it lengthwise. Then I put it on the rod that goes from the door handle to the latch. Originally there was a piece of material on the door that padded against the rod. However after thirty years of vibration, the pad had worn and the rod rattled against the door. So the rubber tubing is my new padding. I secured it with a plastic tie wrap. Now I don't have that annoying rattle in my doors.

    Many thanks to all the gearheads on this site that made this job so much easier.

    david
     

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