308 won’t start.

You have not driven it out of the garage for 10 years and you started it every week? I bet money on a set of fouled plugs...

 

Hard to diagnose with the limited description. Is it turning over just not firing? Is it starting and then stumbling? Is it just clicking? Is it doing nothing at all?

Could be any myriad of issues, starter, battery, bad fuel if it's been sitting for 10 years, warm up regulator, fouled plugs, loose or bad ground......and on and on.

If you really did mean to say that you just start it up in the garage every week for the last 10 years, why didn't you take it out for a drive now and then? If you do get it running take it out and give it an Italian tune-up!! It'll run much better with regular use.

 

that has been wrong for ten years

 

At a minimum, you also need move the coachwork at least a few feet forward and back every so often -- about 1/2 of the (steel) gearbox and diff components are not submerged in the gearbox oil and the exposed 1/2 will rust if not rotated to coat them in oil.

 

I once opened up a gearbox that sat around for 10 years and found no rust.... so perhaps in dry California this is not always the case. But, moving it and driving it is always better than not.

 

Certainly -- would depend heavily on whether, or not, the storage situation results in internal condensation, but better to be safer than sorry (10 years without actual use, nor fluid changes, isn't good no matter how you slice it).

 

justin..... spark + fuel = stink You are missing one

 

I had similar problem, found some wiring harness chewed my mouse, the car cranks or turn over but no start.

 

Fuse were there should be a glove box should be bang it hard with closed hand twice,if nothing chech the fuses

 

That may be a failed (leaking) fuel distributor --- which would account for your "no start" condition.

 

fresh gas?

 

So lets start with basics - doubt it has anything to do with the actual gas being bad... if you had clogged injectors you would not have heavy gas smell.

with the key on - un plug the blue connector at the fuel distributor - you should hear a very loud buzzing noise. if you don't - that is the first issue to track - the fuel pump protection circuit. usually its the relay in the trunk - on the right side of the car. or fuel pump fuse or connector behind the fuse block
if its buzzing, then you are getting fuel. - be careful if you have pumped the engine full of gas - two thing happen. 1. you dilute the oil. 2. you wash down the compression - oil seal between the rings and wall of the cylinders. you will need to put some oil in each cylinder with the SPARK PLUGS OUT and rotate the engine - to get compression back. Pull the dip stick and smell for gas in the oil. if its really strong - change the oil. first.

If you are getting fuel, then turn your attention to spark. check the distributer for cracks in the cap, and then check coil wires ( with battery disconnected ) and then finally check your wires and extenders. if that is ok then:

Likely culprit is either a failing fuel accumulator diaphragm, or start valve

Most likely it will be conenctions between relays and fuse panel. Usually 95% its an electric issue. check the fuse box, and also check the connectors behind the fuse box by pulling the box out and down. you can check relays by swapping with one of the other ones to see if that is the issue.

rarely is it the actual Bosch fuel distributor or plunger plate. - don't go immediately to the CO setting screw.

 

Mine did this same thing it was the fuel accumulator

 

Guys, it's not just the "no start" problem ---- He's also got fuel leaking into the upper end of the intake system....... about the only way that can happen on a CIS car is either the cold start injector <or> the fuel distributor is leaking badly.