308GTs clutch change (1978 model) | FerrariChat

308GTs clutch change (1978 model)

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by snowflake, Apr 25, 2010.

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  1. snowflake

    snowflake Rookie

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    Can I change the clutch (it is stuck & cannot be disengaged for some reason) in the vehicle & do I have to remove the drop gears before taking off the cover to get at the clutch. I don't use the car very often, & it has only covered 15,000 miles from NEW & although the clutch pedal goes down it will not disengage.

    I am thinking of replacing the exhaust manifolds with Stainless steel, so presumably it would be better to lift the engine out to do this? Any help on the above would be greatly appreciated as I have NO manual!!
     
  2. the_stig

    the_stig F1 Rookie

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    Does the pedal feel the same as it always has or does it sink with little or no resistance?
     
  3. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ Consultant Owner Professional Ferrari Technician

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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  4. don_xvi

    don_xvi F1 Rookie

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    I suspect where that line of thought is would be to suggest that if your clutch is rusted engaged, you can try to pop it loose. Start the car in gear (be prepared, of course, for the fact that you'll start moving right away! You may need to push the car to a safe place to do this, or ride the starter and use the ignition key to stop) and drive with the clutch pedal depressed and violently stab the throttle open & closed. The clutch should suddenly release and you'll be back to normal. Make sure your flywheel timing inspection cover is installed to prevent water from getting in there!
     
  5. snowflake

    snowflake Rookie

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    I have on PREVIOUS occasions started it in gear & driven with the pedal down, & stabbing the throttle. This has ALWAYS worked but NOT now. The pedal feels normal as it was when new. From the replies I've had I think it's rusted, but I didn't realize it would DO this. I don't like this idea of shocking it, fearing it may damage some of the drive train components. I guess I'm going to have to open it up & check!!
     
  6. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ Owner Rossa Subscribed

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    It will pop loose, if you try it a few times...you might check to be sure the cable is still connected??

    No, you can change the headers "engine in" if you pull the RH fuel tank, to get the front one out.....

    Welcome, man.....manuals are available on line now.......
     
  7. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ Owner Rossa Subscribed

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    I've done plenty of smokey burn outs, it's pretty tough drivetrain.....
     
  8. caponome

    caponome Rookie

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    I don't know if you'ld call it rust, but on two separate occasions after I've had the car in storage, the clutch became "glued" to the flywheel. I also did pretty much what you did but instead of punching the throttle, I kept accelerating and then with my foot on the clutch, I pulled the emergency brake. You need to force the engine and drive train to two different speeds to create enough shearing force to break the bond between the clutch and the flywheel. If that doesn't work, with the clutch depressed, you might try sliding a putty knife between the two by removing the timing cover. If nothing else by doing that in several places you may reduce the shearing force needed to break the bond. I added some pictures in case you choose to tear down the clutch. BTW, what do you mean by drop gear?
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    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  9. snowflake

    snowflake Rookie

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    Thank you all very much for the info. I'll have another go at sorting it. The pictures were especially helpful.
     

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