This is a can of worms on here. Many threads, discussions and arguments about the accuracy of the factory cam marks. I (and several others) have found the marks to be perfectly, and I mean perfectly, accurate. Some of the pros on here sustain that the factory marks are plus/minus 'n' degrees. It's been discussed to death and I don't want to drag up old chestnuts -- I have only one car and those guys have timed dozens, so I wouldn't like to say either way, but mine were perfect. What you can do (as I did) is check the timing with with a DTI and degree wheel. Took me half a day. The first time I did it I found that the marks were PERFECT, but one of the pulleys could have been set slightly better (which I rectified). On one bank the marks are at the cam pulley end and on the other bank the marks are at the opposite end on the inside. Off the top of my head I *think* it's 5-8 bank.
Yeah your right it does seem to be a can o worms. I probably shouldn't have posted the question... I think in my case I will go ahead and trust the marks, since I don't have the experience to check the timing. And I am happy with how the engine runs.
Very bad idea. Very very bad idea. You do not want to pull the engine again to retime the belts. Do it now, get some help, find a buddy, learn the technique, but do the timing correctly before putting the thing back in. You said so your self! Everybody makes it sound like magic, it is just a car. You are capable even of this valve timing step. Do it now!
As an inexperienced beginner I don't understand how the timing could get messed up if the cams are put back in the exact same position they are in now. They would be locked in place and the belt replaced. If the car runs good now wouldn't it run the same? I'm asking this question so I understand.
First of all, you don't know how the last belts were put on so by locking the cams/belts and replaced them, you got back to an unknown state. Second, it is impossible for you to eye ball a 2 degree difference on the alignment of the timing marks, maybe even 3 degrees. But a 3 degree delay on the cam is pretty big in terms of making a difference. Multiply all that by fourn cams and chances of you locking the cams, changing the belts, and arriving at the exact places on all four cams, with brand new unstretched belts is pretty slim. The 355 is a very high performance engine. It really needs to be tuned to its tip top condition in order to get all the performance you want out ot it. Once you got it all together, it may run at 90% of its tip top shape with throttle response 80% there. Why not spend $20 on the degree wheel (you did buy one before you took the engine out, right?), and get the engine to 100%. The one day of doing the valve timing will avoid the one week of having to take the engine out again. You already spent a ton of work to get here. Take one last step.
Just wanted to give an update on my progress. Ive been going rather slowly doing one thing at a time as parts come in. The cam oil seals and O-rings replaced plus cams back in engine. New Hills tensioner bearings installed. Need to get the timing belts on, whats the best way to compress the tensioner so the belt will slide on? Cam covers are stripped and waiting for paint. Fuel injectors back from being cleaned. Still waiting for my water pump to arrive from the rebuilder. My battery was losing charge if the car sat for more than 1 day, so I took off the alternator and had it checked. First guy (autozone) told me it was bad. I decided to take it to a shop that specializes in alternators and such. He hooked it up and said everything looked good. I saw on his machine it was putting out 14.1V or something close to it and over 140 amps. Is this right? I think the guy at Autozone was doing something wrong, he didnt even have a Ferrari 355 listed in his computer. Ill check the battery at a later time. I had to have the line from my power steering pump to the car rebuilt. Took it to a local business that was able to use the old fittings on a new better than OEM hose. Cost about $75 since he had to do some custom work brazing the old fittings to new ones, must better than $400 for used Ferrari hose.
Put the tensioners in a bench vise, and put a small allen wrench into the holes to keep the tensionser compressed. Losing charge in 1 day is your battery's problem, or you have a current leak of some kind, not the alternator Bravo for finding a way around the Ferrari hose tax, or it is tax hose.
Okay, I finally verified the cam timing Using the Lobe Center Line method as described by fellow f-chatter fatbillybob. The results showed me that the engine was dead on from the previous engine out service and that the factory timing marks are perfect. I must admit I was nervous about trying to do this on my own however, once I had the dial gauge and degree wheel it all made sense. Degreeing with this method is so simple even a f-chatter can do it. Tonight I have been painting cam covers, installing new SRI silicone hoses, and installing the rebuilt water pump. Can someone please tell me what these 4 hoses that came in the SRI hose kit go to? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just wanted to share a couple of other pics Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
They are the radiator hoses. 2 for either side. It is a good idea to replace them now while the engine is out.
Cam cover dried and polished up. It isn't perfect but looks good enough to bury on the engine. fyi not bolted down yet. I didn't use the crinkle paint. I decided I wanted to use the same color I am going to paint the calipers in. Dupli-Color Engine Enamel "Chrysler Red" Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thank you I hope to get the engine at least back in the car this week. Waiting on part from ricambi. Im the meantime I have the rear brake calipers off for bead blasting and paint. I decided to go with a little darker red than I used on the calipers.
Rear calipers done. Bead blasted, red rattle can, high temp decal applied, clear coat applied. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great work! Where did you get the Ferrari decal for your caliper? I want to refinish mine but dont want to loose the decal.
You can get them on ebay, search under 355 caliper decals. The seller claims they are a high temp material.
I'm so frustrated, I've been waiting for about 3 weeks to get a breather nipple for the cam cover. I thought it would be good to take it off when I painted the covers. It's made of soft metal and broke when I tried to turn it. I ordered one from FerrParts cause they were the only ones to have it in stock. Well long story short they didn't really have it in stock and jerked me around for 3 weeks, Im still waiting for a refund for the part I never received. I don't think I'll ever order from them again. I ended up finding it at a Ferrari dealer on the advice of Daniel at Ricambi. Just waiting for it to arrive hopefully Monday. I'm looking for some advice: should I use anti seize on the bolts that mount the engine frame to the car? Thank you
Rule of thumb I've always followed: Only use anti-seize if it's stainless/aluminum difference (fusing together) or high heat.
