RobzWorkz #6(66)b: Enjoying the Electrical Demons: Relay Board Connector Refurb. | FerrariChat
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RobzWorkz #6(66)b: Enjoying the Electrical Demons: Relay Board Connector Refurb.

Discussion in '308/328' started by Robz328, Feb 11, 2011.

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  1. Robz328

    Robz328 F1 Veteran
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    #1 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hello again FChat!

    This is the effort I made for fully-refurbishing the relay board connectors while making the connections long enough to relocate the relay board.

    The first thing to do is document the layout of the board connectors. This will be done with pics. Notes are shown as applicable (there are some errors in the wiring diagram). I labeled each wire location on each connector with a letter code and correlated the information to that code. I used the symbol '+' to indicate a connector position as blank, where no actual connection is made with the relay board. NOTE: all connectors are labeled correctly and refurbed conditions resulted in proper electrical operation; so, if any error is apparent on Pic 1, then it applies only to Pic 1; all connectors have tabs that explicitly allow only one connector to align with only one relay board slot. There should be no errors here, especially for the connector info, which has been multi-checked. The key to the electrical connection is shown at the bottom of each connector picture. The color coding is as observed and as verified with the (free) 1986 328 wiring diagram. The info for each contact includes electrical line within the board itself, through the connector, to the wire line outside the board in the car. PLEASE SPEND AMPLE TIME REVIEWING THIS DATA.

    Pic 1 shows the arrangement of the connectors on the board.

    Pic 2 shows Connector J removed and labeled.

    Pic 3 shows Connector K removed and labeled.

    Pic 4 shows Connector U removed and labeled.

    Pic 5 shows Connector V removed and labeled.

    Pic 6 shows Connector W removed and labeled. Note that Connector W had a previous repair for the fuel pump line and required special attention.

    Pic 7 shows Connector X removed and labeled.

    Pic 8 shows Connector Y removed and labeled.

    Pic 9 shows Connector Z removed and labeled.
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  2. Robz328

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    #2 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Of course, I didn't cut off all the connectors at once!!!

    I only cut off one connector at a time, investigated its wiring lineup with the documentation, recorded its wire attachments by hand on paper, refurbed its connector, refurbed the wires to the harness associated with the connector, connected them up, used heat shrink to encapsulate and protect the wiring, and tested each as a final project. PLEASE DO NOT CUT OFF ALL THE CONNACTORS OFF AT ONCE; YOU WILL LIKELY MAKE SERIOUS MISTAKES!!!!

    RESTORE ONLY ONE CONNECTOR AT A TIME AND TEST FOR EACH!!!

    To refurb a connector, do the following:
    1. remove each connector terminal; this can be done with a small flat blade Jeweler's screwdriver; insert the driver from the outside of the connector in its slot; push onto the tab inside and remove the whole terminal; this sounds easy, but the first couple of times will be annoying and revealing; after a couple of successes, you should be able to remove a terminal easily; clean the connector plastic body with 90+% rubbing alcohol (found at drug store) and Q-tips; label the positions for each pertinent wire;
    2. clean each terminal all over (don't cut the wires off yet) with 90+% rubbing alcohol (found at drug store) and buff with a sanding stick; clean again with alcohol;
    3. solder to coat (or tin) each connector as well as possible; this will not be easy and will likely need repetition since the terminals are old; use a paste flux and a 30 WATT soldering iron;
    4. cut off the wires from each connector;
    5. open the outer-most tabs and clean with an X-ACTO knife, removing any amount of wire insulation;
    6. clean each terminal with the X-ACTO knife until all metal is shiny; clean again with alcohol;
    7. using 14 GAUGE stranded wire (12 GAUGE where indicated in the pics) for each terminal, cut wire to desired length; strip about 3/8 off of one end, tin the end with solder; clean well with alcohol; insert into terminal tabs, crimp a little into place; apply paste flux and solder to the cleaned-off terminal;
    8. iterate with cleaning with alcohol and X-ACTO knife, applying flux, and soldering until the terminal/wire assembly is well-soldered, strongly-bonded (with solder), very shiny, and the contacts are ready to connect to the relay board terminals;
    9. after you are satisfied that a terminal is well-soldered and will contact the relay board terminal, clean with alcohol, etc.
    10. verify each terminal has its tab open for holding into the connector body, and insert each terminal/wire assembly into its pertinent slot in the connector body.


    Hopefully you got the message: lots of cleaning and soldering and re-soldering...that's what it takes to do it right. BTW, shiny solder with thick surfaces give the best connective results!


    The attached pics should give some hint as to the procedure os the connector restoration.
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  3. Robz328

    Robz328 F1 Veteran
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    #3 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    More pics of the terminal refurb effort.

    As can be seen, the last pic shows the full compliment of completed terminals for one connector, ready to press into the connector itself.
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  4. Robz328

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    #4 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Before inserting each terminal into its place in the connector body, protect the terminals with HEAT SHRINK tubing.

    NOTE: some connections require TWO lines to be soldered into the terminal. See the pics showing the double installation.

    FINAL PIC shows terminals installed into connector body.
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  5. Robz328

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    #5 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I found that using LEGOs with holes in them would align with the wires when inside a connector body, and would be ideal for aligning the wires and applying stress relief for the wires themselves. Roughen the LEGO plastic with sand paper, clean all, and use CA glue to hold all together.

    LEGOS are some of the strongest pieces around....and they can be shaped to accommodate each connector as needed.

    When aligned, use more HEAT SHRINK to keep the wires relieved and in place.
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  6. Robz328

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    #6 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  7. Robz328

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    #7 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    After completing all the refurbishment for each connector, I took a picture showing the completed assembly. Sorry, but I didn't take pics of Connectors V and Z after finishing, but they look nominal. Each is unique and required special attention. TREAT EACH CONNECTOR ASSEMBLY LIKE ITS OWN PROJECT!!!


    Special note for Connector W: please note that the line for the fuel pump (Beige 12 gauge) was repaired at some time before I acquired the car, where the repair used a connection different than the common terminal. This required special attention, in that I soldered a special wire into the relay board itself to be connected as a special wire not associated with Connector W. You may have to arrange for special connections as this for your car.
    The last pic shows this terminal, having been directly soldered into the relay board.
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  8. Robz328

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    #8 Robz328, Feb 11, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    To complete the refurb, it is necessary to install the mating connectors to the wires in the car. This was done using crimped female connectors associated with the male connectoers installed with the assemblies previously shown. I felt it essential to install using insulation compound (basically silicone compound used for insulating connections) and protecting with HEAT SHRINK tubing as done previously. The pics here show the installed relay board with refurbished connectors, ready to be re-located underneath the dash area. My next posts for this thread will show the re-positioning assembly (coming when I'm done making the relay board holder...coming soon) and the dash panel installed to look original.


    BTW, I drove the car and checked all the functions that I am keeping (recall, I removed heating and AC stuff)...all worked very well.


    The very last pic shows my inspection of the relay board wiring completed earlier last year...still working very well!!!
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  9. Robz328

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    #9 Robz328, Feb 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    For the 10 or so people who viewed this thread with some effort, there is likely a question by now:

    "And how do expect a human being with legs to sit in the passenger seat?"

    My answer should be: "I will have him/her remove legs and place in the trunk area."


    So, what am I doing with the rat's nest (a nice looking one at that)?

    As I mentioned, I am relocating the relay board to underneath the dash. This required the longer wires seen in the pics. To relocate, I built a hinged aluminum tray bolted to front wall where the AC unit was bolted.

    Pics 1 and 2 show the aluminum pieces comprising the tray with hinges riveted to then so the tray can rotate up and down when installed.

    Pics 3 and 4 show a test fitting.

    BTW, the angle of the hinge was the best position to accommodate proper operation.
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  10. Robz328

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    #10 Robz328, Feb 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    As the pics show, I drilled holes to accommodate the board, test fitted and installed the board. I used small pieces of fuel line hose to cushion the bolted joints of the relay board.
    The installed board rotated up and down as designed. Making the tray tilt allows to lower the board for inspection/removal/ease of installation, while rotation upward allowed for positioning the board out of the way of a passenger's feet (if they are not in the trunk). The final piece to make was a painted steel bracket to hold the board up and behind the dash panel (see next post).
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  11. Robz328

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    #11 Robz328, Feb 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Here, I cut a piece of steel to shape into a bracket suitable for holding up the board when fully-installed.

    Pics 1-4 show the fabricated bracket and test fitting thereof.

    Pics 5 and 6 show the painted bracket installed, with wire groups sinched into place.

    Pic 7 shows that I used the dash panel to push in on the bracket to bend it enough to accommodate the installation of the dash panel.

    Pic 8 shows the piece fully-bent to shape. This bend not only makes room for installing the dash panel, but also allows the dash panel itself to aid in supporting the board tray.

    Pic 9 shows some windlace installed to prevent chafing of wires that could occur due to the thinness of the metal bracket.
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  12. Robz328

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    #12 Robz328, Feb 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. Robz328

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    #13 Robz328, Feb 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The last thing to do is to cover the openings that were formerly filled with the AC evaporater/blower assembly to prevent water, etc from dripping onto the relay board. There are actually two significant holes to cover. This post will show the smaller. The remaining hole is yet to be covered. To cover the smaller hole, I fashioned a steel patch and used RTV to stick it over the hole.

    Pic 1 shows the hole revealing access to the relay board.

    Pic 2 shows the metal plate I fabricated.

    Pic 3 shows the application of RTV.

    Pic 4 shows the installed piece. This should provide adequate protection from drips and such. As stated, there is the bigger hole further in the dash area which will be sealed as well. This is the hole that facilitated ductwork for the AC system.

    BTW, for some who would like to relocate their relay board to the front compartment, one of these holes would be used to route the wiring. I explicitly chose not to do this and wanted to keep the relay board in the interior of the car.

    Later, I will redesign the electrical work using the "local high current/remote control low current" method, where each operating circuit will be located near the current load component(s) while relay control current (which would be lower than operating current) would be routed from the interior control circuitry. One popular example of this is the headlight/lifting motor circuitry: the high current lines, with pertinent fuses/relays would be located near the headlight/lifitng motor areas while the control lines would be routed to the headlight switch on the steering column.

    After solving the problem of sealing the larger ducting hole, I will post pics.
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  14. Paul_308

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    #14 Paul_308, Feb 20, 2011
    I really hate to be negative but think the results can be worth the risk.

    Please take some time to focus the camera. By post processing you are removing the EXIF details so I can't tell what camera you are using but gosh Rob...you are putting so much effort in this worthy project that good photos are essential...they are our only link to your task, and it cannot add more than a minute here and there.

    If you are using a real camera versa a telephone, using the widest lens you own or zoom to the widest setting, cropping in post-processing if needed. Using an f-stop of 11 or 16 will get the maximum sharpness via depth of field. With ambient light the highest iso will obviate need for direct flash which gives bad shadows. I also suspect some of the oof shots you were simply too close. Take 3-5 shots for each step and select the best from each set.

    You approach is novel thus inspiring. I Hope to see more about it and am sure it will inspire others to find their cure a basic ill in these cars.
     
  15. Robz328

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    #15 Robz328, Feb 21, 2011
    Paul,

    I sincerely appreciate the constructive feedback. As reccomended, I will start taking more pics and choose the best. I do some of this now, but will make an effort at improvement. For now, that's the best I can do. My camera is an older Sony Cyber-shot, and I let it choose the f-stop for me (auto-focus). It has 5.1MP with 3x optical zoom and MPEG capable. I'm really not interested in getting a new camera for this work, since I beat the cammera a lot while taking pics in various contorted positions. I found that my best pics are ones using the flash. Since it is auto-focus, I assume that the blurrier pics are because the camera sensed an object on which to focus that was not my object. I dispose of most of these.

    Paul, you seem a little more knowledgeable than myself regarding camera settings, so I would entertain more advice. Many of these pics can only be taken close-in, as in significantly closer than a 2ft distance. So, if you know a setting I can use on the Cyber-shot, please let me know and I will investigate.

    BTW, what are EXIF details?

    Thanks again for the feedback.

    A proto-amature photographer;).

    Rob H
     
  16. maestro8

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    #16 maestro8, Feb 22, 2011
    Great work as usual Rob! Thanks for sharing in such great detail.

    For close-up shots you'll want to use "macro" mode. Look for the icon that looks like a flower. It'll work very well for up-close shots, even within inches of the lens.
     
  17. Paul_308

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    #17 Paul_308, Feb 22, 2011
    Super kudos to Jason, you done broke de code with that macro suggestion.

    Got out my ancient Cybershot. Time to charge all the batteries anyway after 3 years of unuse only to find a never used flower icon (I don't take pictures of flowers) and it really works. The automatic focus was reduced to having the camera as close as 4" from an object.

    The Cybershot also the ability to lower flash output so it isn't overpowering or turn it off. Flash pics give nasty shadows especially compared with a lamp close (within 3ft) on both sides of the object. Bought the camera mostly for the factory (Modena-LeMans-Never) trip and have to take it out of the closet more often for F-documentation.

    Thanks Jason. There ya go rOb
     
  18. tempest411

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    #18 tempest411, Feb 23, 2011
    Thank you very much for your work in presenting this project to us. That was no small effort!
     
  19. Robz328

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    #19 Robz328, Feb 23, 2011
    Thanks guys! As you can see, I love doing this stuff...this is my form of self-actualization.

    Thanks especially to Paul and Jason. I will try the macro mode on a close up of something and see if I can show a difference to all (not on tmy next thread, though...pics already in the bank).

    Rob H
     
  20. DGS

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    #20 DGS, Feb 23, 2011
    I was going to suggest avoiding having two wires to one pin, as strain can cause the connectors to misalign and overheat (my J3 pin has done that twice), but it looks like you've got that covered, as well as reducing the strain created by stuffing that board into it's usual spot.

    Has anyone mentioned that this is for a 328 relay board?
     
  21. Robz328

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    #21 Robz328, Feb 23, 2011
    Good catch DGS, I should have put into the title!

    Title should have read:

    RobzWorkz #6(66)b: Ferrari 328: Enjoying the Electrical Demons: Relay Board Connector Refurb.


    MODS!!!

    Same for RobzWorkz #6(66)a
     
  22. franske328

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    #22 franske328, May 30, 2018
    Hallo Rob

    You did some Amazing jobs, and its a joy to see everything you did.
    Is it possibel to get new connectors I had problems with the cable to the fuelpump.
    On connectorblock W the nr 4 is almost destroyed, so I am looking for a few new
    connectors.
     

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