1989 AIR INTAKES SOLVED!!

From threads I have read in the past there has been a problem getting a replacement part for the 1989 328 air intakes. These cars have a flexi mesh hose wrapped in a type of foam, the consensus is it is to lower intake noise/keep the intake air cooler, either way it has become a pain in the arse for many fellow 328 owners.
Lots of alternatives have been used from Duck Tape to aeronautical hoses.
The problem has been the foam over time has turned to dust, at best it looks unsightly at worst it can clog up your air filter causing loss of power.
I took my Ferrari to a main dealer in the UK for a service, when I got it back I had been charged £60.00 for them to put some black Duck Tape around the top of the air filter hose, it looked worse than it did before, I asked why they had not replaced it they replied it’s no longer available.
Great service!!!!
That’s the best a dealer can do!!!!!!!!!
Time for action.
Firstly do the research.
Find out the problem.
See what others have come up with.
Do it my way!!!
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Now to solve the problem


After much time and effort I managed to find a company that could possibly help me. (lot’s of emails/samples) etc.
Great I have found what I am looking for.

PVC NITR1LE-CLASS'O'

A high quality, flexible closed cell P.V.C. Nitrile elastomer, Available in rolls or sheets.
An excellent thermal insulator (sealing) material, available in the following thickness
3mm, 6mm, 9mm, 13mm, 19mm, 25mm, 32mm, 40mm & 50mm

Technical Data

Density Range: 55-70kg/m2

Temperature range: -50° C/ +116°C

Thermal Conductivity:
(Mean Temp)
BS 874 Part 2 1986 0.037W/(m.k)

Water Vapour permeability
Mositure reistance factor: u>5,000
(BS 4370 Part 2 1973) 0.13/ugm/(N.h)

Water Abosorption 0.9% average
(by volume after 28 days)

Fire Performance:
BS 476 Part 7 (1987) Class ' 1'
BS 476 Part 6 (1989) Class 'O'

Noise Reduction: up to 30db(A)

Resistance to Oil & Grease: Good
Colour: Black/ Dull Grey

Old and New!!
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Ok time to order what I need,
“Sorry sir we only sell it in 14 metre lengths”
WHAT!!!
Maybe the Duck Tape doesn’t look so bad!!

After much deliberation I bought a roll 1.25m-14m. 13mm thick.

Ouch!!!!!!!
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Ok time to start

Jack up air filter side and remove the wheel, unscrew the fibre glass wheel arch liner and remove. The hose is now visible, removal is fairly easy.

If you look up and right you can see the end of the hose which is attached to a small fibre glass hood which is connected to the chassis with one bolt, the easiest way to remove the hose is to grab the collar at the end and twist wiggle and pull at the same time.
If you are worried about breaking the hood then unscrew the bolt and the whole thing will drop out.
The top end of the hose is a lot easer, open the deck lid and grab the collar at the air filter box and twist and pull toward the front of the car. You can then slide the hose through the wheel arch. (At this point make a note of top and bottom of the hose).

Sorry no pics of hose removal.

2nd pic liner removed.
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You will probably find the foam in a sorry state and it will fall off in one piece, if not just pull it off.
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You can now remove the end collars ready for cleaning,
I used white spirit but any solvent will do, firstly I used it to remove the Dinatrol that was all over it and then used it to break down the glue that was inside the rim where the foam was glued in place. It took a bit of scrapping to get it all off but you will need it clean for the new glue application.
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The hose is going to be in it’s original shape where it was fitted in the car (all twisted).
I straightened the mesh coil slightly still keeping a note of top and bottom, (it is difficult to try and wrap foam around an uneven surface).
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I cut the foam to an approximate size and wrapped it around the mesh (a point worth a mention is the foam outer skin is very supple but can tear very easily with sharp objects, I covered my work surface with a blanket and cut the foam with sharp scissors). I then cut the foam down its length so when it wraps around it is just under slight tension (you don’t have to be perfect with this as long as you cut a nice edge with the scissors).

I did this on my own but a second pair of hands would help, you will need glue I used superglue.
Place the foam on your work surface then put the mesh on top of the foam down the centre line (the mesh bottom should be facing upward, this is where the joint will be).
Ounce you are happy with the positioning then you can glue the seam together, I started at one end, I squeezed a line of glue down one seam about an inch, then pressed the two surfaces together and waited for it to dry, I did the whole joint this way an inch at a time, it kept an even seam and no mess on the surface.
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I then trimmed the foam ends flush with the mesh (looking good at this point).
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I felt it necessary to reinforce the seam with Duck Tape as the seam is going to be at bottom anyway and you will not see it (better safe than sorry).
Now this job is not for the light hearted, you only have one chance. You need to cut the tape about 2 inches longer than the hose this is so you can fold it over the ends and stick the mesh to the foam, this will help when you fit the end caps.

Again it is better you have some help in sticking the tape as you cannot remove it and re stick it without damaging the foam!!!
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Now to try the end caps on dry, I found the best way was too slowly twist them on taking care not to rip the foam, there is a little rim inside the cap for the hose to fit into, keep twisting until it turns fairly easy, this will allow you a bit of play when you glue in place as you will not have much time for adjustment.
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Run a small bead of glue on the inside lip of the cap then fit the hose (be quick) one twist should do it.

Do both ends.

It should look Fab.
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Refitting

I covered the hose in fabric to protect it during refitting I also put tape over areas in the engine bay that might come into contact with the hose.
I then loosened the air box to aid refitting by lifting and tilting it forward.
The hose is now ready, what I did now was to try and manipulate the hose back to its original approximate shape,I then placed a small amount of petroleum jelly around the inner lip of the outer part of the collars.
Re-fit the hood if you have removed it then push the bottom collar on to it, offer the other end of the hose upward toward the air filter housing, then grab the collar with your right hand and offer the housing with the left hand to one another and wiggle the two together.
Re- fit air filter housing but be careful the collar does not come of, the hose might need a bit of twisting to find its old position, remove protection and refit wheel arch liner and wheel.
The other side oil cooler is basically the same process.
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Finished.
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My Baby.
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No Idea, but it has caused a lot of heart ache!!

 

Thanks Mate.

 

Will speak soon.

 

Thank god for air filters!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Noise reduction - that's ALL it's for. I was quite sure of that based on the difference in sound with/without the hose and the rather short run of the hose BUT just two days ago I found a US regs reference that the US noise requirements for '89 required a 3db noise reduction compared to earlier. Guess where that 3db came from (quite a bit more, actually)? Yep, foam wrapped around the intake hose.

That's very interesting, I think you have the reason for the change.