328 Air Injection T-union

Anyone know of a cross reference for number 8 in the diagram below? I'm not paying Ferrari $278 for it. I could have one made for cheaper than that. Replacing the check valves yesterday, the T union just fell apart as I took the hoses off.
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Richard,

I just went through this problem on a 328 service. Here's the solution.

On the 328, Ferrari uses two of these "T"s. One is on the aux. air valve circuit, the other on the AIR circuit, as you experienced. Both of these "T"'s are identical and made of steel. Remove the one from the aux. air circuit and use it in the AIR system, as I'd prefer to see a steel one in this area, considering the potential temperatures.

Go to you local parts store and order a Gates 28635. This is a very high quality 19mm polycarbonate "T" fitting. It will set you back less than $10. Use this part to replace the steel "T" you borrowed from the aux. air circuit. Done!

Donations for saving you $268 are always appreciated...

Regards,
David

 

....or if you could get one of our learned bretheren to fess up, we could all profit in the
knowledge that this entire apparatus could be deposited in a landfill and thus rest easier.
come on guys, tell us we can trash the system w/o hurting our engines.

 

The system on my 328 was missing when I bought the car 2 1/2 years ago. Since there is no emission testing here in Florida, I have left it off. Have not noticed any problems with the idle, hot/cold starting, acceleration, ect, in fact the car runs great. When I had the major done 2 years ago the mechanic just said that it was missing and that it wouldn't cause any problems.

 

Leave it out alltogether. Remove averything in the diagram.
The car doesn´t need it. Mine doesn´t have it either.

A lot cheaper and it can´t go wrong.

 

Excellent idea, David. Thanks a bunch. I know exactly where you're talking about. I picked up a poly T fitting as a temporary solution, and Carquest is ordering a metal fitting, but it's a little smaller on one of the ends. The forward check valve was corroded through and hot gas was getting past the valve into the line and the engine bay. I kept trying to track down where the burning smell was coming from after a long hard drive, but I couldn't see that burnt hose with the dist. cap and coils installed.

My friend who is helping me said it was probably useless any way and I said Luigi just put it there to mess with our heads. ;-)

Tonight, we install the dist. caps, rotors and plug wires. Replace some coolant lines and fill with coolant. Roll it out in the driveway with a fire extinguisher handy and turn the key....and pray. It's been a learning experience, for sure. I'm anxious to get it back running. If anything the new plugs, wires and rotors (which were all in bad shape) should make a noticeable difference in the running. Will I notice the valve adjustment? Maybe. A lot of the clearances were out of spec (12 total I think), so that may be enough to notice.

 

$278 my a$$. I picked up a T at local hardware store for $1.95.

 

I hear ya. That's what I said too.

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=191821

I could have one made for that price.

 

It really makes you wonder...where these prices come from????

For those who are not familiar with this part, it is a "T" fitting with 3/4" (19mm) nipples 2" (or 3"?) long, by 1" deep...

 

Where did that diagram come from? That has to be wrong. It shows the air injection coming from the air box. Where is the air pump? I see a breather from the airbox connected to a vacuum operated valve, to a T feeding one way valves into the exhaust. This will accomplish absolutely nothing without an air pump unles somehow the exhaust is designed to "suck" air into itself.

????


Birdman

 

No airpump necessary, the engine vacuum does the work ... barely.

 

Go to Home Depot in the plumbing section an They have a nice brass T that works perfect. The Extreme heat will melt pvc or nylon.

 

OK, this is blasphemous, but here goes:

http://www.licorvette.com/hose_clamps_and_straps.htm

#24-12 heater hose t- fitting

This is the "T" fitting for a 1964-7 327 Corvette, and retails for $10. You'll need to cut off the sealing "edge lip" on each end to fit the original SIAIG braided hoses and paint it black, but it will work (I used one as a temporary fix). Certainly the polycarbonate idea sounds promising (water collects here and any metal version will eventually rust). Consider replacing the AIR check valves while you are in the area.

Best,

Carl

 

Here's the $278 T-fitting. Not much too it.

David I took your advice and pulled this one out from under the expansion tank and put it in between the exhaust header check valves.
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Cool trick, eh?
Glad you've got her back on the straight and narrow!

Both myself and the owner of the 328, that I had just completed the major service on, were in awe on the pricing of that "T" from Ferrari. I know, aftert years of servicing these cars, that parts can be pricey, but $278 was just too much to take...

Regards,
David

 

What engine vacuum? Is there vacuum in the exhaust manifolds to suck in air?