328 Block w. Crank on 308 Clutch and Gearbox ?

I am running that combination
A few changes are in order however----

the 328 crank is a bit longer--need to remove about .075" from inside sholder of pulley dampener to slide it back in alignment with alternator and waterpump.

The hole where oil exits the bolck is much larger and you will need to get a new hose---

what is your car? gtsi injection? 328? 308 carb? 308gtsi ECU will not work with 328 flywheel-- I converted all my stuff to EFI...

Headers are same 328-308v4

clutch/bellhousing from 308 will fit 328 block

takes a little massaging--but well worth it

Charles

 

Looking in the manual, it shows the clutch/transmission transfer gear shafts on the 328 are supported with bearings on both ends; the 308 only on one end. Presumably done for strength reasons.

Question to the experts - Is there any history of these shafts on the 308 being weak and getting bent or whatever?

 

the transfer gear is really not a weak link--the weakest part of the drivetrain is actually the Differential---I have seen them claw their way out of the casing when the motors are bumped up to high horsepower (about 400). The bearings at the transfer gears do get a lot of wear --but the bearings can be changed easily, and you get to inspect them on clutch changes--I am not concerned.

 

Dirk--please fill out your profile so we can know more about you---specifically where you are located. Also , If you are close by you are welcome to see my car or i can send pics---actually installing a new motor in it this weekend

 

Dirk,
Why would you want to do that?
Just curiosity.

 

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lets start with --- +35 HP and +26 Ft-Lb Torque----- and Newer components

 

dirk--the 328 motor will not work with your 308v4 computer---the injection is calibrated for a 308 and the pick-up points on the flywheel are different--you MIGHT be able to get around this by installing a 308 flywheel but I would not try this unless you go to carbs or EFI.....

 

I have never really worked on a Ferrari more than basic modifications and maintenance, but if you are doing major engine electronics changes, I would consider using a standalone engine control unit, like an Electromotive TEC III, or something similar, that once installed and tuned it acts even better than a stock ECU....this is only a good idea if you consider modifying the stock engine....I have seen these installed on a couple of Lamborghini Countach's along with many other "normal" vehicles like my own turbo miata.

Can you use a 328 computer with a 308 harness?

 

no--308 wiring and 328 computer do not mix

I installed a TEC-3 with in my car--wish I had gone with a MOTEC though--lot better unit--TEC-3 has been a headache

 

whats wrong with your tec 3? Tec 3 is much cheaper than the Motec, but I guess you Ferrari guys have the money for that.

Next question:

Can you install a 328 Engine Harness & Computer into a 308, or is the cost and headache to high to even make the attempt worth while?

 

to install the complete wiring harness would take months--- As for the MOTEC it aparently has better algorythms and more secure--my TEC 3 crashed once and had to have board replaced at 500.00--this is only in 3 yrs too

 

I ran a haltech E6K for several years with good results on the 308. I'm currently upgrading to their new E11 to add sequentail injection...the E6 didn't have enough channels to handle both DIS ignition and sequentail...never had any problem with the E6...the E11 is giving me some trouble with the rpm signal or home signal though...off idle it counts 9 cylinders instead of 8 about 1/2 the time and doesn't run very well that way. I put an osciloscope on and they both look perfect, starting to think there is something wrong with the ECU itself....this is the tough part of EFI conversion, making everything talk....probably worse with haltech than the others because they try to be more universal and work with more combinations of sensors (hall effect, electomotive, reluctor-308 OEM, motrinic, ect), fuel(multiport, batched, staged, sequentail) and spark setups(1 or 2 distributors, wastespark directfire, complete directfire), but you pay for it by needing to configure more things during setup. Once it's done, they are usually very reliable and zero maintainance...along with complete control of fuel and spark so you can tune anything anyway you want.

 

I have only had the Tec 3 for a few years, but the car was only running for 5 months...we'll see if mine crashes when i start the car again this coming month...no ferrari, but it is a turbo miata that was quite fast....

I would still recomend the Tec unit as it's easier than the Haltech to use and tune with, especially since you can start the car the first time you turn the program on and even drive it....the Motec although better is big money.