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328 catalytic converter flange question:

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by greg328, Feb 19, 2012.

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  1. greg328

    greg328 F1 Rookie

    Nov 17, 2003
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    Greg
    #1 greg328, Feb 19, 2012
    Not near the car, just wanted to know; are the flanges on either side of the cat fixed or movable? I tried to remove it today in order to install a test pipe, but couldn't gain access to the upper bolts. If I could spin the flanges I could reach those upper bolts.
    The flanges on my test pipe do spin.

    1987 328 GTB

    TIA,
    Greg

    Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk
     
  2. greg328

    greg328 F1 Rookie

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    #2 greg328, Feb 20, 2012
    Obviously, this assumes that the connecting flanges also will spin.

    GG
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #3 Steve Magnusson, Feb 20, 2012
    Usually on stock parts/systems, one flange is fixed and the mating flange spins. For example, on this stock 1984 US 308QV muffler (and its X-OSt replacement), the flange on the muffler inlet is fixed, but the mating flange on the cat spins:
    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    On aftermarket parts, it's more common to have all the flanges spin (as this is more forgiving).
     
  4. greg328

    greg328 F1 Rookie

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    #4 greg328, Feb 20, 2012
    Thanks Steve, I figured as much. Looks like I'll have to bring the car to a muffler shop, and be subjected to the Ferrari tax, to remove 6 bolts...

    :-(

    Any ideas on special tools to reach those difficult top bolts/nuts? Maybe I'll try again.

    Greg
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #5 Steve Magnusson, Feb 20, 2012
    Shouldn't be that hard -- would removing the rear wheel well covers give you access from the side?
     
  6. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #6 BigTex, Feb 20, 2012
    The muffler shop on North Shepherd across from Buffalo Fred's was slow Saturday with the weather.

    And you could have a beer with the Harley guys, while waiting!
     
  7. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #7 BigTex, Feb 20, 2012
    They are called "obstruction wrenchs" if you don't want to cut up a standard tool....
     
  8. greg328

    greg328 F1 Rookie

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    #8 greg328, Feb 20, 2012
    Thanks Steve and Alan--yep, those top bolts are pretty remote--don't think removing the wheel and liner would help. I do have a super long socket extension, maybe that would reach in, but I think the upper flange bolt is too high, regardless.

    Indeed, it must take a special, curved tool to be able to reach up there and take hold of those bolts.

    Alan, that muffler shop could lift the 328 without drama? Maybe I'll give 'em a shout..

    Greg

    PS--Steve, that is one beautiful X-OST muffler! Shame they're so pricey.... :-(
     
  9. mspelt

    mspelt Formula Junior

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    #9 mspelt, Feb 20, 2012
    I just replaced mine (1988-328) and had no problems removing the original cat. As I recall I removed the passenger side wheel well cover to allow access to the wires for the O2 sensor and bolts for passenger side of the cat. No special tools just extension and swivel joint.

    Good luck with it.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  10. greg328

    greg328 F1 Rookie

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    #10 greg328, Feb 20, 2012
    Thanks for the info. How did you access the driver's side cat bolts? Pretty sure that side is not accessible from the LS wheel well.. ??
    Greg

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  11. greg328

    greg328 F1 Rookie

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    #11 greg328, Feb 21, 2012
    Just to complete and close this thread.

    I finished this job today. Indeed, all 6 bolts on the 328 catalytic converter are removable with hand tools, no need to remove any wheels or fender liners. I was even able to do it without lifting the car.

    17mm open-end wrench, and 13mm socket with long/short extensions....job done.

    My cat appeared to be fairly opaque, looking through it towards light. Is it supposed to be clearly viewable throughout? If so, mine's clogged. (no *****cat jokes, guys!)

    I installed the test pipe, because my thermocouple warning light ECU went bad, and this was a much more economical approach, to remove the possible hazard, rather than overpay for old OEM parts. Plus, the car seems to run a bit peppier.. :)

    Greg
     

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