I changed the clutch on my 328 GTS-87, and we have spend hours and days trying to adjust it correctly, following the Workshop Manual. Either the it is impossible to shift gears (teeth will start to make noice...), or we find a "reasonably acceptable middle-way, where it is difficult but possible to shift gears, but then, as the gearbox oil gets warm when driving for half an hour or so, it is impossible to shift from any gear to reverse without first shutting of the engine. -Any ideas ?
if you try and start the car in first gear (with clutch pedal pushed down) and the handbrake off, does the car try to move? If it does, then either the clutch is not disengaging due to incorrect adjustment, the clutch cable is partially broken and it's stretching a lot when you push the pedal down, or the pilot bearing has seized. The adjustment is the same as described in this tsb: http://bingo.cdyn.com/ferrari/sb21-2.pdf Though why they say to adjust the control rod to a fixed length, then adjust it again to get the 43mm spacing if necessary seems a bit daft. Just adjust it to get the 43mm. If you are anywhere remotely close, the clutch will disengage...assuming everything was reassembled ok. It was working fine before the clutch swap?
Hi, No the car does not try to move when in first gear. Cables seems to be fine. I heard from someone that when you have a new clutch installed, this might be the problem occuring, before it gets "worn"...? Did not have the problem before it was changed.
I dunno why you'd need to wear down something. Assuming the clutch disk is not warped, and it's not sticking to the flywheel, then it should float between the flywheel and pressure plate when the pedal is pushed down. If the pilot bearing is ok, then the clutch shaft should not be applying any significant force to the transmission shaft. what did you replace when you did the clutch? Standard parts? Nothing was done to the transmission or shift-shaft, right? I still have my transfer case cover off. I'll check later to see if the clutch shaft can be easily spun when the clutch is disengaged.
I just changed the clutch on my 87 328 also. It sounds like the clutch may be 'dragging' meaning it is not fully disengaged. I would recommnd the best way to check this is to jack up the back of the car. With both wheels off the ground, start the car up in neutral and put it into first gear then let the clutch out, the wheels should rotate. Now push the clutch in and see if the wheels completely stop, if they don't then your clutch is not fully disengaging and this will cause shifting problems. Adjust the linkage at the bellhousing (manual says 40-45mm) so that when you push the clutch completely in, the wheels stop. You can then adjust the cable adjuster to get the pedal height correct. My clutch was dragging just a little when I first drove the car, but after a little running it is now OK, a little wear has given just that extra little bit of clearance. Just an obvious comment, make sure you push the pedal right to the floor, because with a new clutch it will start to engage much lower to the floor than previously. Make sure the carpet is not preventing it going right down also
It's very easy to put the clutch plate in backwards (it needs to be flipped over). If it's in the wrong way, it can cause the problems you're having.
if you put the clutch plate in backwards, the friction material doesn't touch the flywheel (unless the pplate bends the disc). Does that happen? anyway, if you wind up removing the xfer case cover, take out the middle gear and push the clutch pedal to the floor. You should be able to easily spin the clutch shaft - takes less effort than spinning the transmission shaft. If you can't spin the clutch shaft, then something is binding. Either the adjust is wrong, or the bell housing will have to come off to see what the problem is.
