328 Clutch ring nut won't shift - any tips !! | FerrariChat
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328 Clutch ring nut won't shift - any tips !!

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by peajay, May 7, 2005.

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  1. peajay

    peajay Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2002
    454
    near Paris, France
    Full Name:
    Paul
    #1 peajay, May 7, 2005
    I am finally getting on with replacing the slipping clutch on my 328, as usual on these cars (my experience anyway) it's not long before something doesn't play ball, the ring nut that holds on the lower transfer gear will not move, god only knows how much torque the so called ''expert mechanic'' put on this thing. I have the proper tool and have been using a three feet long bar to try and move it, but no can do, does anyone have any clever tips ?
    I am thinking of getting out the trusty Dremel (again !) to cut the nut off, but it is pretty thick and the bearing is sitting right behind, has anyone managed to cut one off ? Looks like either way I will need a replacement nut, I think the part number is 126853 am I right ?
     
  2. Matt Morgan, "Kermit"

    Matt Morgan, "Kermit" Formula Junior

    Nov 12, 2003
    405
    Ferndale, WA
    #2 Matt Morgan, "Kermit", May 7, 2005
    I would suggest the carefull application of heat, such as a regular propane torch, or heat gun on the nut prior to attempts to remove. The previous installer may have "Thoughfully" added Locktite to insure it will not come off. Care must be used in the application of heat, so as to not damage other parts, but this is very doable, as it loosens the locking compound.
    HTH
    Kermit
     
  3. spang308

    spang308 Formula Junior

    Jul 17, 2004
    893
    York, PA
    #3 spang308, May 7, 2005
    Use an impact. That thing will spin off so quick you will be amazed.
    Just had mine off last week. Used an impact with the spanner socket.
    The jolting will break the loctite if any is on there. Jamb rags between the lower and middle gears to lock them in place.
    No issues at all.

    Good luck,
    John
     
  4. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    #4 Verell, May 7, 2005
    Make sure the air wrench is rated for at least 450 ft-lb in reverse.

    There are a few wimpy 90-150 ft lb ones out there that IMHO are only good for canoe anchors.
     
  5. chrismorse

    chrismorse Formula 3

    Feb 16, 2004
    2,150
    way north california
    Full Name:
    chris morse
    #5 chrismorse, May 7, 2005
    Thanks Verell,

    At the tender age of 57, (or parhaps not so tender age), I finally bought an air impact just to do what you are now attempting. I couldn't believe it wouldn't break it loose, (cheap Kragen air impact) - I should have read the torque rating. I finally got the nut off with a big cheater. When it did break loose, the breaker bar and the extension conspired to nip off a small chunk of my thumb.

    The new nuts were $27.00 from McCann's I'll probably take the impact back for an upgrade, (only used it once), if not it will get the anchor test.

    best,
    chris
     
  6. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    #6 Verell, May 8, 2005
    OUCH! Know how that feels...

    BTW,If you're cranking a 308 engine over by hand, make sure your thumb isn't between the wrench handle & the A-Arm. If the socket slips off the damper bolt's head, you'll break your thumb (Ask me how I know) ;)

    Get the auto service industry workhorse air wrench:
    Ingersol Rand IR-231
    About the best bang for your buck (~$150 or less) as has been around for many years & continually improved. Powerful & built to take day-in/day-out use/abuse.

    Available from Sears, Harbor Freight...

    I've got an old IR-231A, think latest is probably the 231H.

    Hmm, just spotted this '231K kit on Sears web site nice package:Ingersoll-Rand 1/2 in. Impact Racing Kit

    Sears item #00915371000 Mfr. model #231K $139.00
    Comes complete with 5 sockets, mechanics impact gloves, protective boot in heavy-duty case. Impact wrench is IR model 231HA. Super-duty with a 1/2 in. drive, handle exhaust, contoured grip. 590 ft./lbs. maximum in reverse. Pressure feed lube for increased durability.

    Nice package, hope the sockets are metric, but probably aren't. Looks like they've increased the reverse torque spec again!

    Harbor Freight has the older '231C which superced my 231A for only $113:
    http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=32431
    There are more powerful wrenches for more $$, but the '231 gets the job done.
     
  7. peajay

    peajay Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2002
    454
    near Paris, France
    Full Name:
    Paul
    #7 peajay, May 9, 2005
    Well I'm still struggling on this one, I bought an impact wrench, but here in France everyone sells the same model which has about 250 ft lbs of torque. My compressor has a pretty small ouput fitting of about 3/16 inch on the regulator with no way of changing it, so the result is not enough grunt to get the nut off, nowhere near moving. I have Dremelled as far through as I dare go and even now may have touched the shaft threads, but it still bends the T bar on the end of a 3 feet pipe and still won't budge. I think a nut splitter would work well but the nut is 43 mm diameter and the largest splitter around ( and I have one) is only about 32 mm diameter. I've tried heat too, but it is too confined and close to delcate stuff including bearing, fuel tank and lines etc. so I don't want to give lots of heat, and I dare not chisel hard on the nut for fear of damaging the shaft or crack the aluminum casting. What a pain !! it must have been installed by a Gorilla.
     
  8. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    #8 Verell, May 9, 2005
    Sometimes you can shock a nut loose:

    Have someone hold the pipe extesion with as much force as they can. Then use a fairly large (1/2 to 1Kg) hammer to hit the pipe near the end. The impact will often break a stubborn nut loose. Same principle as an impact hammer.

    If the pipe is too elastic, try hitting the wrench out near the end of the pipe.

    BTW, my guess is that the nut was put on with red loctite.
     
  9. peajay

    peajay Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2002
    454
    near Paris, France
    Full Name:
    Paul
    #9 peajay, May 14, 2005
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Wow... finally got the nut off after quite a few hours and the use of a Dremel, I had to cut very deep both sides and just managed to miss cutting into the threads. There was some kind of black deposit on the threads which was probably some kind of Loctitie I suppose. Both the bearing and gear were also very tight with some type of product present. The Dremel saved me again, if you don't have one of these great little machines, I urge you to get one !!
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