328 Cranks but Won't start now | FerrariChat

328 Cranks but Won't start now

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by TadTV, Jul 5, 2014.

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  1. TadTV

    TadTV Rookie

    Sep 12, 2005
    28
    89 328 GTS. Car started right up fine and I moved it into the driveway to swap cars. A few minutes later, I got the dreaded starter click but no starter that I have had for a while. Usually a few on/offs with the key and it fires up. Even replaced the ignition switch a few months ago hoping to get rid of that problem but haven't. Anyhow, the starter engaged the second try, but then the car sputtered. I tried several more times with the engine cranking very strong but no start. I smelled the right tail pipe and could smell gas so I think the fuel pump is running. I even swapped the two relays on the dash that say fuel pump with relays that run the headlight motors and window motors that I made sure were working before swap. I've giggled wires under passenger footrest and under dash but don't know what to try next. Had to have my wife help me roll it back up a slight incline into garage.

    What is the sequence and the wires that create the spark and how do I best check for spark?

    Is there a bunch of relays that kill spark? And anyone know anything about an Alpine alarm and if it has a "no start" connection? Thanks
     
  2. Mantinger

    Mantinger Karting

    Jul 30, 2004
    145
    Netherlands, Drenthe
    Full Name:
    H
    Few tips:

    To check if the fuel pump works: remove the blue connector located on the air intake.
    Ignition on. Inmobilizer not active. Do not crank. You can hear the fuel pump buzzing.
    If not, check the ground wire attached to it, 20 cm long, mounted on the chassis.

    Check for spark: get a stroboscope. Clamp around any sparkplug lead. The stroboscoop should fire.

    When the car runs for a few seconds with cold engine and shuts down, the second attempt will probably result in flooding because the coldstart injector stays active.
    So disengage it to second start (remove blue connector on inlet manifold).

    The inmobilizer usually cuts the starter relais. As well the fuelpump solenoid.
    In my case the starter did not kick in because of a bad connection into the inmobilizer (Thick white wire to starter solenoid).
    You can try to shortcut it and see what happens.

    Give in routine maintenance special attention to the multi connectors located above the driverside rear wheel. Remove inner wheel arch. The left connector holds the starter solenoid wire (white). Check for corrosion and WD-40 both on a regular basis.

    Disconnect battery. Check the ignition module in the boot (left, under carpet). Check ground wire, check vacuum hose.
     
  3. GatorFL

    GatorFL Moderator
    Moderator Owner

    Nov 18, 2005
    16,961
    Wellington, FL
    Full Name:
    Duane
    Check the "All Keys" relay. It will do the same thing--crank but no start.
     
  4. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 29, 2008
    5,495
    Madison Ohio
    Full Name:
    David A.
    first thing, check for spark.


    Ago
     
  5. Lawrence Coppari

    Lawrence Coppari Formula 3

    Apr 29, 2002
    2,191
    Kingsport, TN
    Full Name:
    Lawrence A. Coppari
    If you do not have a strobe, pull a plug wire and insert a spare spark plug and lay it on the block. Have someone crank engine. See if plug fires. You may have a spare in your tool kit but any plug will do.
     
  6. TadTV

    TadTV Rookie

    Sep 12, 2005
    28
    Thanks for the tips. A few questions.
    What do you mean by "Inmobilizer not active"?

    Where is the fuel pump solenoid and fuel pump?

    Where is "Check the ignition module in the boot (left, under carpet)".

    check vacuum hose.??

    Also GATORFL mentioned to check "all keys" relay. Is that in dash or behind pass. footrest?
     
  7. Mantinger

    Mantinger Karting

    Jul 30, 2004
    145
    Netherlands, Drenthe
    Full Name:
    H
    Immobilizer not active means: You cannot test the fuel pump with your alarm still activated.
    Your alarm shuts it down.

    The pump solenoid is situated behind the right panel in the dash next to the gauges. Remove two plastic round nuts underneath. "Key related services" or "all keys" relay is situated there also.

    The pump itself is mounted on the tubular frame next to the driverside fueltank.
    Acces: from underneath or remove inner wheelarch driverside.

    Ignition module sits in the trunk. Remove special opening in the carpet on the left side (standing behind the car) Remove lid (four bolts). The module is mounted against the lid.
    Check for corrosion etc.
    It also holds a vacuum hose used to measure throttle position or inlet manifold vacuum.
     
  8. GatorFL

    GatorFL Moderator
    Moderator Owner

    Nov 18, 2005
    16,961
    Wellington, FL
    Full Name:
    Duane
    Dash.
     
  9. TadTV

    TadTV Rookie

    Sep 12, 2005
    28
    Since the car is stuck at my parents house, I can't see the dash right now. Can you give a bit more detail in what the pump solenoid looks like and the all keys relay as well. I think that area is the culprit since I had jiggled some wires in there after the no starter clunk- around the ignition key area.

    What "two plastic round nuts underneath" do you refer to? The ones on the backs of the speedo and tach gauges? Thanks
     
  10. GatorFL

    GatorFL Moderator
    Moderator Owner

    Nov 18, 2005
    16,961
    Wellington, FL
    Full Name:
    Duane
    #10 GatorFL, Jul 7, 2014
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2014
    Passenger side dash panel is removed by unscrewing 2 knobs. "All keys" relay is on the left side IIRC. The owners manual has a schematic and can point you to its exact location. It looks like a big fuse.
     
  11. TadTV

    TadTV Rookie

    Sep 12, 2005
    28
    Well it started right away today. So either it was flooded, which never happened before, or an electrical gremlin still. However, now there seems to be more issues creeping up. It's harder to start when warm, have to pump accelerator a few times. Also a few times during my several test drives and stop starts, it was bogging down in neutral when I would rev the engine. Even a small backfire. Could the plugs be fouled? Also I noticed more than usual, a louder whistle sound when pressing the accelerator- like gasping for air. All related or separate?

    I did check the large connectors under the pass footrest area. The smaller one had a little discoloration next to the large thick brown wire but the metal tabs looked fine. Not sure what the brown wire goes to.
     
  12. jimpo1

    jimpo1 Two Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Jul 30, 2001
    24,899
    Dallas, TX
    Full Name:
    Jim E
    I believe on a US car this is on the RIGHT side, under the antenna. That's where mine is.
     

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