328 : engine oil into gearbox / Change procedure ?

Hello,

I think I have a known problem on 328: engine oil leakage into the gear box.

When I check the gearbox level last week-end, I discovered that the level was far more than it should have been. Only possibility is leaking seal, right ?
I changed engine oil, gearbox oil, and will check again both level again.

So, I think I have to prepare myself to change the seals, but I would like to know if exists a particular "procedure" to exchange this.
I made a search on Fchat, have found some threads, but no clear procedure/tips with pics and explanations.

By the way, I think it would be really great to find some procedures for changes. I found some for the 328 (oil changing, fuel filter changes, brake fluid change; distributor seal change; etc...), which are very helpful, but there are not so many.

If you have some, I am really interested !...

thanks

 

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=182268&highlight=shift+seal

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=205362&highlight=shift+seal

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129690&highlight=shift+seal

 

My notes:

Just replaced the shifter shaft seal on my 328 -- thought I would post a few notes:

1) Prior to starting the job, from the top remove the dipstick tube bolt from the timing belt cover, the torque rod? (see below) and the battery prior to jacking car-up.

2) Prior to removing dipstick and oil temp sending unit; use a spray cleaner in the area (prevents grime from entering hole after removal).

3) Engine probably does not have to be lifted-up. I disconnected the cat and slightly lifted engine, but not sure if this was needed. If you do want to lift engine be sure to disconnect torque rod from rear valve cover. On my car there was interference between the shifter rod (from shifter) and the shift shaft being removed from the engine. The fuel tank cross-over tube could be pushed out of the way to allow removal and refitting of the shaft. (it would be good to include the fuel tank sleeves with this procedure) The adjustment fitting does not have to be unloosened.

4) The shift shaft seal is a poor excuse for a seal; it looked like the OD of my seal was the weakest link; if the engine was out, I would fit a regular lip seal with a spring squeezing the lip onto the shaft.

5) Dipstick fitting into the case was hard to access and the fitting is very tight. Tried Snap-on 6 Pt, 24mm socket and it would not clear the threaded nipple; 1” deep was unwieldy and could not get long ratchet on it. What worked well for me was a Craftsman 12 Pt 24mm, Std length socket with a extended-length Craftsman Flex ratchet. This ended-up being a very positive arrangement and the fitting just spun-out.

6) People have said this is an approx 9 hour job—this is pretty accurate for a first time, but having the right tools for removing the dipstick fitting would probably knock-off 2 hours (and an unquantifiable gain in frustration relief).

7) It would be best to drain the oil out of both sumps at least a day before (a week would be preferable) —the longer the better otherwise oil will keep dripping down of the gears, pickup tube, Etc.

8) Prior to removal of dipstick tube—put a mark on it (for clocking alignment), near where it fits to the block, to facilitate installation. It is difficult to move the tube around trying to get it in the right place when you are trying to reinstall it.

Enjoy,
Mark


Pan Only:

Prior to starting the job, from the top remove the dipstick tube bolt from the timing belt cover

Prior to removing dipstick and oil temp sending unit; use a spray cleaner in the area (prevents grime from entering hole after removal).

Dipstick fitting into the case was hard to access and the fitting is very tight. Tried Snap-on 6 Pt, 24mm socket and it would not clear the threaded nipple; 1” deep was unwieldy and could not get long ratchet on it. What worked well for me was a Craftsman 12 Pt 24mm, Std length socket with a extended-length Craftsman Flex ratchet. This ended-up being a very positive arrangement and the fitting just spun-out.

Also need to remove the Temp sender.

You should really look up oil pan removal and shift shaft seal in the archives. If you are unprepared the job is a real PIA.

 

Instead of starting a new thread, I would like to continue on this thread. I did all the readings but I can't understanding why we need to remove the dipstick and the oil temp sender (item #13 and #34) in this diagram, can someone please explain why?:

http://www.ricambiamerica.com/images/diagrams/full/328-88_021.jpg

Then this step mention using the 22mm wrench " Prior to removing oil temp sending unit (22 mm or 7/8” open wrench); use a spray cleaner in the area", I looked at my oil temp sender (#34), it looks much smaller than a 22mm wrench would fit, am I looking at the wrong thing?

I got the gear oil pan off and caught the 2 balls and springs, and about to remove the engine oil pan.

Thanks in advance.

 

I think I got it: the procedure mixed up the oil temp sender with the dipstick and those item#13 and #34 is blocking the oil pan from being removed:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194253&highlight=shift+shaft+seal

I can understand people try to force/pry the oil pan without knowing about these can break something. Thanks God for this forum!!!