328 Fast Idle | FerrariChat

328 Fast Idle

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Emartleb, Apr 7, 2005.

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  1. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame
    At the first stop after a long freeway run, my '89 328 will often times idle between 1500-2000 rpm and continue to do so each time thereafter when the car idles. It is NOT the carpets (I've seen to that) and the throttle linkage has been thoroughly lubed. When it is not doing this, it idles perfectly at 1000 rpm. It runs perfectly. Any ideas?

    Thanks for your help.
     
  2. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,354
    UK
    I've just been through some idling problems on my 328.

    Next time it does it open the back up & see what happens if you push on the throttle linkage - see if it will close any more. If it does, chances are you have a dirty throttle body & so you just need to take it off & clean it up with something like some brake cleaner.

    ...at least that's what fixed mine! The TB was black inside - 16/17 years of muck I suppose.

    rgds

    Iain
     
  3. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    If when idling too high and you either drive it around town or just let it sit and idle does it come back down eventually?

    The reason I ask is that if it does as I described it is a pretty classic symptom of loss of power to the heating element at the additional air valve located on the bottom on the coolant tank. That valve should get 12 volts at all times the ignition is on.
     
  4. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame
    Mr. Crall:

    Thanks for your response. Actually, the only thing that seems to be successful in having the idle return to normal is a quick blip of the throttle. Can you offer any suggestions based on that info?

    Thanks again!
     
  5. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall

    In that case Iain's comments are more applicable. Also make sure you have slack in the throttle cable and that the throttle stop screw is what is catching the throttle linkage and not the throttle switch.
     
  6. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame
    I'll check the throttle body as well as the slack in the throttle cable. Thanks to Brian and Iain.
     
  7. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame

    I see the device (heating element under the coolant overflow) you are talking about but I do not see any wires going to it. How (and why) does electricity get there?
     
  8. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall

    Is it the device with 2 large hoses going to it? If so there should be a 2 pin Bosch connector going to it. I don't have one of those around the shop right now but maybe someone else with a similar model can give you exact directions to find the source and track it down.
     
  9. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame

    You're absolutely right-I can't see it but I can feel the electrical connection to this device. It seems to be intact and have a firm connection. What does this device do?

    If my recent throttle body cleaning doesn't solve the problem (it was pretty grimey in there but I don't think it was so bad as to prevent the plate from fully closing), I'll further investigate this device. I gather, however, you feel that if a blip of the throttle returns the idle to normal, then this device probably isn't the culprit, correct?
     
  10. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    Correct.

    That device provides additional air for cold running to make the cold idle higher. On a carburated motor the choke, in addition to enriching the mixture acts upon the throttle linkage to open the throttle slightly (that is the common solution, some carbs do it differently).
     
  11. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame

    My cold start seems to be normal - starts after a few cranks, idles for a moment or two at about 1500, then slowly comes down as the car warms up. I usually don't begin driving until the car is warm enough to idle at about 1000 or so. Then I drive very gently until the car is fully warm. I really don't think this device under the coolant tank is my problem. I'll report back after I've had a chance to see if cleaning the throttle body helped.

    Any other conditions which might give the symptoms I've described in my original post?

    Thanks very much.
     
  12. 348 Turbo

    348 Turbo Formula 3

    Jul 17, 2002
    1,837
    Try this, pull off the "air feed" hose at the throttle body. This is the large black air hose coming from your fuel distributor. With this out of the way, simply look into the throttle body, and while looking in there, exercise the throttle linkage. Watch the flapper plate open and close. Now do it "very gently" as if you're letting off the throttle in normal driving, see if it actually closes SHUT). Do it abruptly allowing the tensioner spring to "snap" the plate back to an idle position, (see if it ends up in the identicle position, as when you released it very gently). In other words, just inspect it carefully, and "play with it" Do not change the position of the idle screw or make any adjustments. You may find out that all you really need to do is lube the throttle pivot assembly, or the return spring.
    I hope this helps. Let us know what you find out. Good luck.
     
  13. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame
    Thanks very much - it does help. I actually did what you suggest when I was cleaning out the thottle body. It does appear the flapper plate fully closes whether snapped shut or closed slowly. As I mentioned in an earlier post, there was a fair amount of grime in the throttle body and I'm hopeful that cleaning will solve the problem. The throttle cable and linkage have all been thoroughly lubricated so I don't think that's the cause. It's odd in that while at a stop light when the car is idling too fast, I can even reach down and try to pull the accelerator pedal up with my hand and it won't move any further up yet if I slightly blip the pedal, the idle will return to a rock-steady 1000 rpm. I'm a little worried that the problem is more systemic with the fuel injection and may require a trip to the mechanic's. Anyway, as soon as I finished cleaning the throttle body it started, once again, p*ssing down rain here in San Francisco so I'll have to wait to see if my cleaning efforts have solved the problem. I'll certainly post again once the weather improves.

    Again, thanks for your help.
     
  14. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    37,288
    Cowboy Capitol of the World
    Full Name:
    Brian Crall
    The weather is fine on this side of the bay.
     
  15. Emartleb

    Emartleb Karting

    Dec 6, 2004
    79
    San Francisco, CA
    Full Name:
    Val Beltrame
    That's it!! I'm moving.
     

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