328 front axle or spindle nuts

Look at the thread from the top. If the thread closest to the end is on the left side, then it is a right-hand thread.

 

I don't think so -- the 328 SPC shows the left side and right side use the same 124642 nut (as does my ex-TR, and I've had that apart and don't recall them being "strange").

 

Definitely not this (this is more for the earlier 308 spindle design where that spindle nut preloads the opposing tapered roller bearings).

Can you confirm that the thread size is M20 x 1.5P? If so, the TR WSM has the torque spec as 16 daN-m (which is 118 ft-lbs and corresponds to the high torque that you needed to apply to remove it).

See also page 43 in the Technical Specifications section of this 328 FNA document:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/e5pjuyiyo56vb13/328 tech specs and service bulletins.pdf?dl=0

"Securing steering knuckle lever" (not the best English translation) also has the torque as 16 Kg-m (115 ft-lbs). The thread size is given as M20 x 1.25P (but that could be a typo and is still in the same ballpark as M20 x 1.5P).

 

M20 x 1.25mm vs M20 x 1.5mm may be a typo. Also, M20 x 1.25mm is quite uncommon, but I won't rule it out. A fastener supplier makes what you need to produce a car.

If you don't have a thread gauge, count 10 threads and measure over what distance they occur. "x 1.5P" or to be more precise "x 1.5mm" means you have 1.5 mm from tip (or root) of the thread to the next. In the US "P" stands for "pitch".

You can also measure the ID of the nut which is 18.4 mm for M20 x 1.5mm. And approximately 18.65 mm for M20 x 1.25mm (18.9 mm for M20 x 1mm)
Torque for M20 in grade 4.6 is 116 ft-lbs

 

There is a change in front wheel bearing design for 308 -328. 308 has a taper bearing with reverse thread on the right side. 328 has a bearing carrier set up with a spindle pin set up to hold the bearing in place.
Tapered bearing is set up by preload, I do this by feel.
The 328 set up will have a torque figure for the nut.
You had reverse threads on the right front so you have a tapered bearing system and that will require setting the bearing preload.
I usually tighten the nut until I have just a very slight drag on the hub. Don't over tighten and then back off as this can cause dents in the bearings and lead to premature failure. Keep the hub spinning by hand and tighten, when a drag is felt, that should be tight enough. If you are replacing the bearings and races, I recommend a check after a few hundred miles to make sure everything has settled and is still adjusted well.

 

That is only if you have a NON tapered bearing. If you have left & right hand threads, you have tapered bearings and 115 will lock up the wheel.
There is no torque spec for tapered bearings. It is done by feel.

Here is the factory way of setting tapered wheel bearings.

 

Why do you keep thinking this is 308? The thread title is for a 328, and the OP has already confirmed that the spindle nuts are both RH thread, and were previously torqued to a high value before removal?

 

Because he said he went "full on" indicating it was LH thread. I apologize for any confusion. Clearly I am wrong. I will gracefully bow out now.