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328 fuel pump

Discussion in '308/328' started by SCHNELL, Apr 27, 2011.

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  1. SCHNELL

    SCHNELL Rookie

    Apr 25, 2011
    9
    PA
    #1 SCHNELL, Apr 27, 2011
    My pump started leaking at the copper washer under the banjo fitting. The clamping hex nut is seized & I can't loosen it, can't get a wrench on the thin hex nut close to the pump because of the two studs (electrical connections). I'm thinking of cutting the short metal fuel line to the accumulator, but I'd have to get another, might not be available quickly. Any thoughts here?
     
  2. JohnnyS

    JohnnyS F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Oct 19, 2006
    15,280
    Illinois
    Full Name:
    John
    #2 JohnnyS, Apr 27, 2011
    Is the fuel pump out of the car? If not, disconnect the hose from the gas tank and the one going to the filter. Remove 3 nuts and take out the plate that holds the pump and accumulator. Now, you should be able to work on the pesky component. IMO, don't cut anything. Take your time and use lots of WD40 to loosen the nut.
     
  3. SCHNELL

    SCHNELL Rookie

    Apr 25, 2011
    9
    PA
    #3 SCHNELL, Apr 27, 2011
    Pump is still in car, have to dis-connect the line to the accumulator (either end will do), that's the problem. I never had much luck with WD40, it's more of a cleaner then a rust buster. I've soaked everything thing with Wurth-Rost Off Ice, which usually works for me. I'm thinking maybe cutting a notch in a 17mm open end to clear the small (electrical) studs to hold the thin inside jam nut. I've tried several strap wrenches on the pump OD to keep from rotating but the torque required to break the large hex clamping nut is to great.
     
  4. lonnie77

    lonnie77 Karting

    Feb 17, 2011
    140
    Kennedale, Texas
    Full Name:
    Lonnie Harrison
    #4 lonnie77, Apr 27, 2011
    You will have to remove the pump and accumulator together. The check valve is the locking hex nut and it has came loose and the bolt going through the banjo is very tight. Disconnect the filter first. The straps holding the pump and accumulator are held with four 10mm nuts and bolts. Remove the outside bolts then the inside bolts. Remove the shield and disconnect the power cable so there is room. There is a nut that is welded holding the mounting plate. Take pictures to help on the reassemble. If you cut anything cut the straps they are cheaper.
     
  5. SCHNELL

    SCHNELL Rookie

    Apr 25, 2011
    9
    PA
    #5 SCHNELL, Apr 27, 2011
    I took the whole assembly out (3 bolts), didn't think it would fit, but it did. The banjo fitting is loose to the pump, wonder how it lasted so long like this.
     
  6. JohnnyS

    JohnnyS F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Oct 19, 2006
    15,280
    Illinois
    Full Name:
    John
    #6 JohnnyS, Apr 27, 2011
    Atta boy! Now you are working on a Ferrari!
     
  7. Iain

    Iain F1 Rookie

    Jan 21, 2005
    3,320
    UK
    #7 Iain, Apr 28, 2011
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2011
    That fuel pipe is indeed NLA - so is the cap nut that goes over the end of the one way valve so don't trash either of those!

    I always find it helpful to look at the ferrari parts site at www.ferrariparts.co.uk before I touch something I havn't worked on before.

    Firstly the TAV diagrams are helpful in understanding how things fit together & secondly you can see which parts are available & which are not. Also what things cost if you were to damage or were contemplating sacrificing something!

    As above, both that cap nut and the pipe are NLA. But even if they were available, they were listed at quite high prices such that you wouldn't want to damage them even if you could replace them!
     
  8. doug328

    doug328 Formula 3

    Mar 11, 2004
    1,599
    The Space Coast, FL
    Full Name:
    Doug B
    #8 doug328, Apr 28, 2011
    If the major Ferrari parts suppliers like T. Rutlands, Recambi, ect dont have them, the fuel pump and accumulator are standared Bosch parts, so mabe a Bosch supplier might have them.
     
  9. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,855
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
    Full Name:
    Steve W.
    #9 FasterIsBetter, Apr 29, 2011
    If the nut is stuck and assuming it's not crossed threads, Aero Kroil is the absolute best stuff to unstick it. It is a super-penetrating oil. Spray some on the threads and wait a good long while. Hit it a couple of more times with the spray, letting it sit between sprayings. Overnight is even better if it's really stuck. If Kroil can't get it loose, nothing can. Better than WD, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc., IMHO. YMMV. (all appropriate disclaimers given).

    And if all else fails, get out the torch and heat the living daylights out of it. OH, OOPS!! Fuel pump. Okay, forget that advice. Stick to the Kroil.
     

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