To All, Is there a thread or source describing the adjustment procedure for the hand brake system. My genereal question would be "How many threads on the drum adjusters should I see in the adjustment hole?" and "Is the whole system (both drum set adjustments and the hand lever adjustment) set as a whole?" Thanks All, Rob
No, 328 have the separate drum brake set-up for the emergency brake -- maybe a little heavier than the 308 arrangement, but not so iffy http://www.ricambiamerica.com/parts_catalogs.php?M=FE&P=&V=diag&I=2412 No, it's more of a sequence of adjustments (paraphrasing and embellishing from the TR WSM page G13 which uses the identical handbrake design) -- With the handbrake lever in the "off" position, adjust the spreading sleeve (item 24 in the Ricambi figure) until the disc is locked. Turn the spreading sleeve in the opposite direction until the disc rotates freely. Then operate the handbrake lever to lock the rear wheels -- should occur within the first 3~4 notches of handle motion -- if not, adjust the handbrake lever "locking" position to occur at the right place by adjusting the nuts (item 16 in the Ricambi figure) at the end of the cable from the handle assy. (If you did need to tweak nuts 16 a bunch, you might go back thru the procedure again just to make sure that it didn't affect how item 24 was set, and, of course, confirm no drag with the handle in the "off" position.)
First cable should be backed way off then shoe adjusters should be tightened until it locks the drum and adjuster will not tighten further then backed off about 5 clicks. Then adjust cable until handle will only lift about 4 or so clicks.
I did do this correctly then, however with no wheel lock up. This means I will have to replace the shoes (this is similar to the process I use adjust my Lexus). I was hoping otherwise, because my rotors are fused to the hubs and I did not want to warp or damage them while removing them simply to inspect the hand brake shoes (there is plenty of life remaining on the rotors). Thank goodness I park in a level garage and drive only for fun. Any recommendations for replacement? Perhaps there is a rebuild kit on the market. Again, thanks to all who responded. Rob
Steve, Knowing that at least the part numbers on the 308/328 uprights (or hub holder) are different, do you know if this system is adaptable to a 308? Change the whole upright assembly? Are the upper and lower arm pickup points the same? Cable routing an issue? I know, lots of questions and I assume you know... sorry if I'm being presumptive. Rick
Haven't looked into it myself in detail, but, if you change your question to: "do you know if this (328) system is adaptable to a 308 at reasonable cost", my guess would be "no".
I've learned to drop "reasonable" from considerations with the race cars and the Ferraris... Were I to use reason I'd probably not own anything with an "exotic" tag attached. They are just holes into which one pours discretionary time and money. Its a disease I revel in. I'll have to get one of my 328 buds to bring their car over so I can put it up on my rack, take some pictures and start thinking about it... I suppose a NON-ABS car would be best to model from. hmmm.... Rick
A non-ABS car would be better to model from. A non-convex wheel car also. Somewhere in that time frame the 328 had a suspension change for better anti-drive and anti-squat characteristics. The suspension pickup points or uprights or both probably changed for that.
Well, if those are the ground rules, nothing will ever be impossible I had a little closer look at the SPC drawings and part numbers, and have to say it looks quasi-doable to put the non-abs 328 upright assemblies on the 308 A-Arms (they use the exact same upper A-arm, and, although the lower A-arm PNs are different, they look identical except for some minor bracketry); however, you'd probably need the 328 calipers as well (and have to deal with the cabling). Please let us know what you find if you look into it more seriously.
Does anyone know how to fix the ratched in the parking brake handle? My handle pulls up and will hold the car, but it doesn't click and doesn't hold if you release the handle. I either need a replacement handle unit, or some guidance on fixing the ratchet mechanism. Thanks.
Are you referring to the 308 or 328?I'm not sure if they are the same handle but on the 308,its likely that the ratchet locking mechanism is stuck in the unreleased position,usually from either crud build up or in my case the lever itself was bent and it jammed the mechanism in the unreleased position....I pryed the handle apart enough to release te mechanism,,,,but this was in the GT4 which uses the same handle as the GTS/B and also Fiat 124.....I haven't had any problem with my 328 handle so cant give advice on that
Sorry, I was talking 328. I'm well aware of the problems on the 308. But on my 328, the ratchet mechanism doesn't work at all. I had an '84 Mondial that has a similar setup -- pull up on the brake handle to the left of the driver's seat, it would ratchet and set the brake, then you push the handle back down to get out of the car. To release, you pull up on the handle, push in the button and the brake releases, handle goes down. On my 328, I can pull up on the handle and feel the tension in the cable, and the parking brakes hold the car. But I get no ratcheting, and when I release the handle, the brake is not set. So, anyone know anything about that mechanism, how to fix it, or where I can get a replacement unit at a reasonable price???
I realize this is an old thread, but I thought I'd post a follow-up. My 1989 328's hand brake was behaving just as described above. The problem proved to simply be the kind of "stuck mechanism" situation pointed out by Maurice70. It didn't require replacement or much effort to fix. Unsnap the single snap on the leather boot around the brake handle. Then remove the hard cover over the hand brake mechanism by taking out two screws - one in the back of the cover and one in the front, under the handle. Both are easy to get to. Lift the boot and cover off the handle, then push the "cam" that engages the "pawl". If it's just the stuck pawl problem then the pawl should snap back into the correct position. You might want to spray some lubricant into the mechanism.
