328 hard/no start problem

First thing I would do is have your ignition system checked. You could be flooding the motor because you are not burning the entirety of you fuel. This can lead to puddling and the car falling on its face after a minute or two.

If that is not the answer, then you may also have an injector(s) stuck open, thus also producing the flood symptom. I would check the electrical side of it first due to the fact that it seems you have an adequate ammount of fuel volume, but it is not being utilized.

If you've already tried this, then let me know. Maybe I can brainstorm up more to check...

Best of luck

PerryC

 

Have you checked the cold start time switch? It may be prolonging the normal operating time of the CSI...

Just a thought. Im going to make some calls today and see what I can gather for you.

Sounds like a viable componet to look at...


Best,


PerryC

 

One more thing, the thermo time switch on most cars is what activates the CSI. It triggers the CSI by putting it to ground, thus opening and firing. If your CSI is grounded via a broken/stripped wire, it could be activating your CSI for the entire time. What Im trying to say is, it most go threw the TTS, then the TTS will ground to open the CSI. Check to make sure you're not going straight to ground with the TTS. If so that is your problem.

If you TTS is going to ground you may have either a broke/bare wire, or a faulty TTS.

Just my thoughts


Best


PerryC

 

Check fuel pump for its operation.

 

Hey Dave,

I dont know the exact location of the TTS. If you get to working on it, PM me and you can give me a shout and we can try to trace wires until we find it.

Let me know if that works

Later bud!


Best,


PerryC

 

Fellas,
CIS is a very basic fuel delivery system-it is bordering on being a carburettor masquerading as fuel injection!

It's principle operation relies on a basic diagnostic tenet:
TEST-DON'T GUESS!

You MUST start with a set of fuel guages(this tells you about fuel pump RELAY FUNCTION, delivery,volume, TTS function, and, most germain here: COLD Control pressue...as well as system pressure andhot pressure...

As well...the decay factor-in seconds-("t" into the current supply with your fluke and use a stop watch as you plot thre decay curve, a reference against what applies to the control pressure regulator's ID plae-and NOT the year and model info plate.

without guages,you are "shotgunning, and will potentially waste time, money, and most importantly...cause damage due to barking up the wrong tree...
Also, have you replaced your old steel jacketed injectors with the brass jacket types?
If not, do this now anyway-forget wasting time in testing ifthis has not been updated.

Design scope and functionality nuances exceed the technical scope of this thread.

with guages,and nozzles replaced, this should not take more than 15-30 minutes to effect an accurate diagnisis,
CIAO!

 

.

 

You used the words "spitting" and "spewing" fuel to describe the cold start injector operation. When it's operating it should be putting out more of a "mist" rather spitting or spewing. If you crank for a longer period of time (I think more than 8 seconds) the CSI should completely shut off (a function of a properly operating thermo time switch). Sounds to me like you have a CSI that is not shutting off electrically or is not sealing mechanically when de-energized.

If leaving the electrical connector off of the CSI improves starting/running the problem is probably the thermo time switch. If it does not help it's probably the CSI itself.

I removed my cold start injector some time ago and never have problems starting the car. Unless you live in a cold region and drive in the winter time I doubt if you need it. May just be a source of trouble.


The thermo time switch is located in the middle of the engine "V" under the intake plenum and near the oil filter. You will see a brown electrical connector attached to it.
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Thermo time switch removed.
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