328 headlight problem

I'd have to check the wiring diagram to be sure, but if they work on "flash" but not on "On", that sounds suspiciously like a connection in the lever switch -- a horribly complex (and expensive) unit.

You might want to have an electrically savvy friend look at the contacts ... although you'll want to go over the wiring diagram to be sure before concluding it's the pricy part.

 

had that problem last year and it turned out to be the switch, i took mine apart and cleaned all the parts put in a new spring and it worked fine. good luck. Chris.

 

I had a very similar problem with my 308 GTB and it turned out to be the fuse box. The rivets were not making a good contact. I soldered the rivets and the lights now work perfectly (my plan now is to build a new fuse box).
It's worth looking at.

Difaz

 

The 328 switches aren't all that complex, but do have several springs & small steel balls that like to head for the nether regions when the switch is disassembled.

From the description, there are a couple of possibilities:

- The switch contact is sticking up in the the contact arm, ie: isn't sliding down when the switch is in the normal condition. This could be due to a couple of things:
a. Gummed up. (Clean with mineral spirits & lube the contacts with a a copper powder based anti-sieze compound that lists electrical contacts on the lable, or else apply a bit of anti-oxidant compound avail in electrical section of HW store.)

b. Contact overheated & partially melted the contact arm. May be able to fix with a little judicious Xacto knife work. If not, then will need a new contact arm(see below).

- The stalk's contact arm is cracked, but hasn't completely broken off, or contact arm has been overheated & is deformed. In either case, you'll need a new contact arm molded on.

UnobtainiumSupply has been providing a repair service for 308, 328, 350, 330 GTC & similar switches for several years. I have molds & can replace individual switch contact ends, knobs, & can even have made complete new stalks. I also have made metal forming dies for the contacts, & have sourced the little springs & balls.

In addition to repairing the stalks, I also offer a generall reconditioning service.

See this thread for some recent examples, including a 308 stalk contact arm replacement:
Repairing Headlight Switch Stalk
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21548&highlight=column+switch+stalk

For more info, send email to:
[email protected]

 

Thank you Verell for showing examples of your excellent work.

Can someone advise if the indicator stalk might be the cause of a problem with one of my 328 headlights? 1989 model, GTS.

The RHS headlight works perfectly. (Driver's side here in Australia.)

The LHS headlight has intermittent problems with lifting. The light comes on when it should - never any problems. The problem is it doesn't always lift when it should. So the light will be on but the whole assembly not lifted.

Rarely it works perfectly - pops up as soon as switched on; however usually it takes about 5 minutes of driving and then it pops up. It always does come up. Once it is up it stays there fine. If after an extended period I switch the lights off and nearly straightaway turn it on again, it seems to be just random whether it pops up straightaway (rare) or within 5 minutes (normal).

I have purchased a secondhand lifting motor for the LHS and am yet to install it.

Do the symptons sound consistent with a problem in the indicator stalk?

Looking at the stalk - and I haven't looked at it for a couple of months - I recollect seeing glue on the free end of it. As if the end has been glued on in the past.

BTW, it is now 12 months since I obtained the car, my first F-car. Still loving every second of ownership. Nearly 15,000km already.

regards,
Pete

 

Pete,
The column switch usually affects left & right equally.

The headlight motors have a diode mounted on them that often goes bad & causes symptoms like you're reporting.

Also, a bad headlight relay could cause it. Suggest searching the archives, esp. the old fchat archives for 'diode', 'headlight' 'relay'. There have been 3 or 4 threads about problems similar to yours in the last 4 or 5 years.

BTW, one of my satisfied column switch customers is in Australia, & there's another in Singapore!

 

Many thanks, Verell.

You've reminded me that I did swap the relays for the left & right headlight lifters early on in my investigations - made no difference. (At about the time I replaced all relays, BTW.)

I don't know anything about diodes so will search for that now. Appreciate your comments.

regards,
Pete

 

I've posted column switch removal instructions several times. Do a search of both the current & old Fchat archives for 'column', 'switch', 'removal', and 'headlight', 'switch', 'removal'.

You will need a special ring nut tool to get the steering wheel off. You can either make it out of 1.25" steel pipe, or a similar sized impact socket, or else buy #FER-105 from www.baumtools.com for about $100.

The twist knob itself is held onto the stalk by a plastic ring at the base of the knob. The ring is a firm snap fit into the knob. You pull straight out on the knob to remove it.

This thread has pix of a 328 headlight stalk with the knob removed.

328 Column Switch
http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/212999.html

Be careful, there's a spring loaded ball inside the knob that wants to shoot out like a BB gun, so removal is best done inside of a plastic bag.

There are 2 common failures of the twist knob part of the switch:
1) A bad solder connection to one of the contacts that come out into a V shape.

2) The little tab inside the knob breaks off as described in the thread I gave the link to.

If you need a replacement twist knob, I sell them. I also have the molds to repair column switches.