328 headlights won't come on

check relays

 

How do you test the relays? I have an 85 Euro 308 QV with a similar problem except only my yellow flash to pass lights will work. It's a French car. I had the running lights on one day the I turned the switch to turn on the headlights and they came up then went down and no more lights at all. No headlights or running lights. I switched a few relays around and nothing. All the fuses look good. Any ideas?

 

Please provide more detail -- do you mean (with the stalk arm in the middle low beam position just to keep version out of it):

1. You rotate the stalk knob to "on" = all the exterior parking/running light are "off", the headlight pods stay down, and the headlight themselves ore "off",

or

2. You rotate the stalk knob to "on" = the exterior parking/running light come "on", but the headlight pods stay down, and the headlight themselves are "off" or "on"?

For #1 = most likely the stalk knob switch or the "labeled K" relay has a problem. For a first diagnosis step, touch the "labeled K" relay outer case while turning the stalk knob "on" = you should feel the "labeled K" relay click. If the "labeled K" relay does not click, (for a test) replace the "labeled K" relay with a ...113 relay -- if that ...113 relay doesn't click when you rotate the stalk knob "on" = most likely a bad stalk knob switch.

 

There are three metal-cased Bosch relays used on 328:

one ends in Bosch PN ...113
another ends in Bosch PN ...101
and the third (the "K" labeled relay) ends in Bosch PN ...006

(as stamped on the outer metal case)

Of course, there are other manufacturer (and even different Bosch plastic-cased) equivalents so they may have been replaced, and you'll need to do some part number translation (a good reference is the relay diagram in your exact year/version 328 OM).

I'll have to rereview the 328 wiring diagram a bit (they changed the headlight operation architecture somewhat from 308 -- to reduce the current in the stalk switch) -- but what about with the stalk in the lower high beam position and the stalk knob "on"? Do you get the same result for that (exterior running lights "on", headlight pods down, and headlamps "off") or something else?

(And we'll assume that you've already done the obvious and made sure that all fuses are OK - yes? For example, if fuse #1 is blown, that would prevent all headlight pod motion.)

 

That's no fun...now you wish it were the relays (or fuses).

BTW, testing relays is easy if you have a 12VDC battery and an ohm-meter. The relay diagrams are common Bosch and can be Googled. If you are uncomfortable doing this, then don't go further with your checks. Take it to a specialist.

To get to the stalk switch, get a steering wheel puller, a specialized socket and get ready for bench repairs. If you are not good at this, get a friend who is. You could send the switch to Verrell (I don't know if he does 328, but he certainly does 308); you could send to me since I've had mine out and know how to reinforce it; or send to someone else; or replace it, etc., etc.

Who else here has removed/repaired a 328 stalk switch? (there's a lot of "woodwork" around here so expect some replies).

If you do anything, take lots of pictures and don't lose the small parts (IIRC, there are springs and detent balls in there, don't lose them).

 

Here's where I bough my steering wheel nut socket (price went way up):

Baum Tools , FR105 Ferrari Steering Wheel Groove Nut Socket 38mm

 

I fixed mine. Sorry, I was so excited that I didn't take any pics. The bottom wire in the light switch on the steering column came loose. We (actually my wife) soldered it back on. After all, it is her car. All is back to working order. I did hold the flashlight though.