328 Heater Core fix

I have a 1987 328. The driver's side heater core is leaking. Two local radiator shops have explained the tube connections are not soldered, they are held together with "epoxy". Does anyone have experience fixing one of these.

Thanks,

Stew

 

Hi Stew,

Yes, looks like I'll need to epoxy a flat sheet-metal nut to the spare tub carrier.

I tried to superglue the input tube on my original heater core (spot of leak) but didn't hold for long. Interestingly, the 8/88 original core had aluminum input tubes while the one I got from a parts car (also late-88) had copper inputs.

Wish I could give you constructive advice, as I have the old core on the shelf awaiting repair.

[did I send you my article on heater core removal?]

Sorry can't be of more help but will eagerly follow this thread.

Carl

 

Thanks for the reply.

I ordered some stuff call Stict-tite. It is an epoxy specifically for aluminium radiators. I'll let you know. How much for the new core ?

Regards

Stew

 

Stew, I paid $150 for core/plastic box from Steve Maman - great guy -up in Canda ([email protected]) from a wrecked 88 GTS previously advertised on here. I think L/R are different only in box lower mounting tab, otherwise the core is identical. I think new ones are in the $300-400 range.

I'd be intersted to know if the re-epoxy works; will you try to clean tubes/core of all existing epoxy or remove and re-glue? Perhaps a propane torch would soften existing?

Best of luck & take pictures for the rest of us! (smile)

Carl

 

Stew,

Both of mine were leaking and I took them to a local (Santa Cruz) radiator shop who was able to re-epoxy them and pressure test them. You should be able to find a radiator shop who can do this for you.

Good luck!

Bill

 

Dear Bill,

Thanks, I have a replacement core coming from T Rutlands (great guys ).

Do you remember the name of the radiator shop in Santa Cruz. I am interested what they used.

Regards

Stew

 

Stew,

The shop is Polar Radiator Service and their number is 831-423-8100. Ask for Greg he should remember the work he did on mine.

Bill

 

JB Weld should do fine, but you must have the repair area clean & dry. I'd wash it with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner, then gently glass bead blast it, then wash it again & brush it with a SS brush just before applying the epoxy..

The blasting & SS brushing will get any surface oxide off & texture the surface giving a bit of 'tooth' for the epoxy something to bite into.

Why a stainless steel brush? Because it is hard enough to strip the surface oxidation off & lightly scratch the metal with out leaving any metal behind to contaminate the surface. Don't use a plain steel brush, it'll leave flakes behind that can rust & degrade the joint. (I sometimes use an Alumninum 'solder' & the instructions are very adamant about avoiding this contamination.)

BTW, crazy glue is NOT WATER/COOLANT RESISTANT. Just read the fine print on the package. Also, many epoxies are not water or coolant resistant. Again, usually the package will give you that info, altho sometimes you have to go to the mfg's web site & find the tech data sheet.

 

Great news !

The heater core from T rutlands had copper tubes and connections. The install was a breeze. Thanks to everyone for the helpful advice. I am working on the other core just for fun. I'll send pics.

Regards

Stew.