Hi guys, went for a drive, about 15km, fueled up and pump the wheels. Was late and almost dark so I left the park lights on... Car did not wanna start, just click from the rear almost like starter just made a click noise but not turning. Realising I left the lights on I switch off and waited a while but still no starting, with the click noise again, the lights all came on and I tested the main lights, motors popped the pop-ups, but slow, thinking the battery might be a little low, but I did not have my tester to check the voltage. Then a friendly fellow gave a push from the front and my 328 fired-up instantly. Idling perfect I drove off back home, I switched the car off and started twice right after but I did not let it sit for a while. What do you guys think, my battery is only just over 3 years old but I always pull the isolater switch after a drive. I was also thinking i drove only a few short distances lately the last couple of months not really giving battery time to charge fully. Should I get the battery tested ? Or just a good charge, ive never charged it since new. Maby remove and clean/tighen the terminals. Cheers ! Johnny
Thats the first step. But this is a very common problem (intermittent no-start with solenoid click) and there are several posts on here and the Mondial forum about it. The solenoid wiring is very long and convoluted and has various connectors which can go bad including the multi-pin Molex near the top LH shock mount which is exposed to water (later 328s have a rubber cover over it). All connections have to be good otherwise the voltage-drop will cause marginal operation of the solenoid.
I'd add unplugging/inspecting/reseating~rewiping the quick disconnect connector as another primary "terminal" to be freshened before going down the next diagnostic path andyww posted...
Thanks guys, I'd like to see the wiring diagram from ignition towards starter connectors. I believe its my battery though, already went through three winters and word or mouth on these Raylite batteries is three years. That sucks since I had others like Dixon which lasted 7 years. I'll charge the battery fully, check the connections I can get to and test the battery myself, leaving the lights on for a while and check the volt drop rate over 10 minutes, if it starts after that then the battery just ran flat over a period of time because I drove very little the last couple of months. I know lots of guys keeps the battery on a trickle charger when their cars are not driven, I don't, so maby I was just lucky the last for years never to had this happen before. Regards.
Johnny, The battery in my GTB is already eight years old, and still going strong. The car stays sometimes two to five weeks without being driven, but always with the big red quick disconnect connector in the "nose" disconnected. Rgds
Bruno, I can honestly say these batteries can last very long if one uses the disconnect switch and like I said I always disconnect mine, I think my battery was just undercharged and then stood to long with the park lights / interior lights etc on. I checked now and the car starts fine, im sure my battery can go another few years. I have heard talks that you dont always get bran new battery from the shops when exchanging and they only give 1 year warrantee and other cars without disconnect switches they only last 3 to 5 years max. PS. hows things there in Paris ?
The Friday night events have been a nightmare for many, and This Is terrible for those who have lost a next-of-kin, but we Will manage. Rgds
Yeah I believe, all the best for you and I hope the Authorities will take matters more serious, not just France but all European countries. I can't believe all those people streaming into Europe are genuin refugees. This is becoming a huge problem, I visited Germany earlier this year and I can tell you alot has changed, lots of never seen before ' foreigners' walking the streets, especially the larger cities like Essen. Anycase, I measured the battery after fully.charged just over 12 V, cranked and I clearly hear the starter turning slower and slower and then the car started, idling it measures 13.9V ( alt ) I can say battery is on its way, let the car idle for 5 mins and it reads 12.8V switch engine off, I can see it dropping within a minute back to around 12V and then fell to 11.9V. Remember I did charge the battery earlier fully before cranked to test. I can propably get away with it for a few months if I keep it charged but I can just aswell replace... I believe I have an bad quality raylite battery or its older than what the shop claimed, the car is garage kept and I alsways use the disconnect switch. Cheers Johnny
Sounds like de ja vu from an experience I had. Car starter often clicked after being on a trickle charge, or no charge at all but always started after a run. Eventually I caught it at a convenient moment and ran a wire straight to the solenoid. It still clicked. Took starter motor out, cleaned it up so the bendix worked smoothly and hey presto its never clicked since. I think the morale of this story is that the slight system voltage drop plus a dirty starter motor bendix need a perfect battery, otherwise the solenoid wont pull in. You may be disguising a future issue that may involve a low loader by simply buying a new battery.
Hi Richard, yes, all wiring / connectors etc seems ok, I ran this battery low over a period of time because of little driving and when I drove only 20 minute drives the last 5 to 6 months or so. this is one way to shorten the live of the battery. I gave the battery a good charge for a change and it seems fine now, cranking is fast again, starts quick. if I leave the car for a while without using the disconnect switch the battery runs down faster than usual but I can live with it - as long I don't leave the park lights on for too long after a drive I'll see what the battery does after a few days of standing disconnected, if the car starts easy I wont change it for now.
