328 - raving up is same as horse back riding | FerrariChat

328 - raving up is same as horse back riding

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by STC, Nov 8, 2005.

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  1. STC

    STC Rookie

    Aug 18, 2005
    6
    Hi all!

    I experienced a strange behavior with a '87 328 GTS when I quickly push the car to higher speed (RPMs). Once the engine is warm (~25min driving, ~15 km) and ready to be pushed I experience the following:

    If I push it quickly, the car will rave up - speed increases until I touch around 5.500 RPMs. Than the car starts stuttering / shaking as if I had not enough fuel or as if the ignition does not work for a fraction of seconds. Lowering speed, and then pushing it again it will show the same behavior at much lower RPMs(4.000, etc.).
    (This does not happen when not having a gear)

    If I push it slowly it will pass the 6.000 rpm before starting to stutter again at higher RPMs.

    Background story:

    1st time occurrence:
    I had oil refilled (10W60). I take the car to a drive and the moment I raved it up, it started stuttering. When this first happened – the car would stutter later at even lower RPMs until the engine will go off. Like: if it stutters at 6.000 rpm, it will then stutter at 4.000, than at 2.500 then it will go off. The moment I reach an RPM where it stutters it goes down this path (lower and lower and off). I had it then in the garage and they thought it is a fuel problem. They changed spark plugs and cut the exhaust-engine-feedback loop as they thought that it disturbs the fuel-pressure department, etc. (Swiss version has this in contrary with the European version). They said it was fine.

    Not even the day later - 2nd time occurrence:
    The same symptom appeared again. Once I touch a certain rpm (i.e. 5.500 the car was having problems at lower RPMs and lower and lower). But this time the car at least was somewhat drivable (not like a Ferrari but like a much slow car). I had the car in the garage and they found “it’s the cables to the spark-plugs”. They changed ONE side only of the cables (the other they say was o.k.).

    3rd time occurrence:
    I take the car – and again – same symptoms… But this time slightly better. The car did not stutter / shake so terribly at touching high RPMs. So I thought perhaps it is something with the cables as problem was - not solved - but at least ½ way better. But the garage was convinced it is something around fuel. The garage changed all spark-plug-cables with an other 328 GTS (which they had there). It seemed not to be the cause. Then they changed the Bosh-“Potentiometer” (which coordinates the engine fuel ignition and my level of pressing the pedal ?). And they believed it was fixed. I tried the car. It seemed almost fine (very little shaking at higher speed). I thought: well, it should be gone with a complete proper service. But then after driving it again and again, it stutter/shakes just like before. I am about to bring it again to this garage – although I am not convinced that they know what they do. But as I have not paid any bill yet I am still in ‘discussion’ mode that they should do their job.

    Anyone with experience / tips on that what I could tell them where to look?

    Thankful for all input!
    Kind regards,


    STC
     
  2. Ken

    Ken F1 World Champ

    Oct 19, 2001
    16,078
    Arlington Heights IL
    Full Name:
    Kenneth
    Here's a wild guess: is your gas tank venting system okay? I ask this because mine was "disconnected" when I bought my car. When I put the hose in the charcoal cannister, I had similar symptoms as you. It took several miles of driving before the vacuum in the gas tanks was enough to cause fuel starvation. It had me stumped for a bit as I was getting good fuel flow in my garage; at idle the symptoms wouldn't occur even at revs. Only when driving.

    Ken
     
  3. STC

    STC Rookie

    Aug 18, 2005
    6
    hm, sounds very interesting. Now as you say so , I remember:

    > filling up the tank always takes time because the fuel nozzle of the gas station behaves as if the tank was full already and disconnects.

    > the fuel level indicator varies during driving from filled to low unevenly and sometimes goes up again (after indicating low).

    Can I check this by letting air in (opening the gas lid) for a moment, closing it and see difference in driving behaviour?
     
  4. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 6, 2002
    79,386
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Bubba
    I'd say you need to inspect the rubber lines Ken has suggested. Good Idea!

    These lines, off the tops of the tanks, if the original material, can close inside and pinch off......but unoticable unless you look.

    Good idea to renew them all, anyway, as it gets hot underhood......I don't think I'd try to run it with a loose cap!
     
  5. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 6, 2002
    79,386
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Bubba
    The gauge sender is only on one side tank, so as you drive the fuel is transferring back and forth between the two tanks via BIG interconnect tube underneath engine...this metal line ALSO has some rubber couplings that bear keeping an eye on...periodic inspection is the key.....if one of them goes bad, you find your car sitting in a big puddle of fuel.....
     

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