328 Rear Side Glass Removal Help!!

If I remember correctly there are rivets at the top to be removed and the complete glass and rubber can be pulled out. The lower section is only held in place in a gutter. There is sealer all around to finish the job. That is from memory from my 308.

 

I did this on my 328 GTB last year. I needed to install new hinges on my small louvered gas lid. This meant I had to remove all the rear quarter glass frame pieces because the hinges screwed to the rear frame section.
So, with Furmano's help, I got it done. You'll need to drill out rivets on the forward frame section I think. You'll need some plastic pry tools to help remove all the dried black rubber goopy sealant around all sides of the glass. You'll also need to put some back on reinstall!!
Once you've worked the goop out and you've removed the forward and rear window frame sections you can pull down the glass. The bottom frame section is channeled into the body so you have to angle it down for it to release. Now that I think about it, there are rivets to remove in the gas cap area as well, attached to the rear frame section.
Take care to tape off the body all around the windows frames so you don't scratch it. I used blue painters tape.
I'm telling you all this from memory as I lay in bed, but I think it's mostly correct.
Mind you, my car is a GTB, a GTS might have a different procedure for rear quarter glass removal.
Hope I helped some!
Greg


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just push on the glass from the inside and push it out slow with your palm of your hand it will pop out make sure u have some one there just to catch it if it pops out to fast easy as

 

Peter

Answered your PM.

If all you want to do is to remove the trim pieces then the glass does not need to come out.But is is a bit of a job just to remove those cloth pieces. I did it while the lid was off and I was doing a valve adjustment. So the center nut was easier to get to.

 

I was able to disassemble the interior of my '89 without removing the glass. IIRC, there's a difference in the earlier cars that necessitates window removal.

 

I did this on my 1988 there are lots of pic,s how to take them out and more impotant how to put them back in (some trick,s) on this site i put on ,an yes there are some rivets to drill out,the big problem was the center hold down nut very tight to grt back on,

 

GTS is different than GTB in this area. Different rubber seals result in different methods of assembly and disassembly.

There are rivets on the 'B' pillars of both cars. On the GTB they have to be drilled out to remove the glass. Looks like it's the same on the GTS.

Removing the interior panels without removing the glass would be the easiest way to go but I could see how that would have it's own challenges.

-F

 

Photos guys don't you take photos when you work??

 

Below are some pictures of a 328 GTS with the window rubber removed. Not sure how much this helps but it's a start.

Start by unscrewing the interior trim pieces on the interior of the 'B' pillars. Once they are removed you will see the rivets.

-F
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Hmmm. As I recall, the interior trim screws weren't hard to find. Tiny Phillips head ones. Keep looking!


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I don't have a picture of the trim pieces on the 'B' pillar and I am not as familiar with the GTS as I am with the GTB but I believe in the GTS, as it is with the GTB, the trim pieces are held in place with small black screws that are accessed from the interior of the cabin. They should be visible from the inside.

Maybe take a picture of the trim piece in question and post it up.

-F

 

When I redid the interior of my '86 GTS I removed it all, except for the curved rear glass, which did not need removal as I did not need to paint the car. As I recall the side trim pieces were pop riveted to the body where the glass is, so I just drilled them out. The real PIA was removing the rear trim piece, as in the 328 it's held in place with 3 bolts that are laminated into the fiberglass trim panel. Unfortunately on this car there's an aluminum shield going across the rear of the bulkhead that covers the nuts that hole the inside trim piece on (the bolts pass thru the rear bulkhead) and so the "proper" way to remove the shroud would be to remove enough electrical stuff and whatever to undo the shroud to access the bolts and their nuts. I've seen other cars that had access holes in the aluminum shield but not in mine. Not wanting to do this I was able to reach around the right and center part- barely- but I had to drill out the bonded-in bolt on the inside (removing the cloth in that area first of course). The remainder of the bolt just fell thru to the other side and the panel came out. I didn't care about ruining the cloth as the object was to replace all of it with black vinyl to match the dashboard, anyway. I simply repaired the hole in the fiberglass and placed a thin layer of cloth-backed foam under the vinyl; it looks very nice, as if the factory had done it. I wish they had! The reason for the thin foam is that the trim panels (all 8) are not smooth, whether fiberglass or aluminum, but lumpy and fairly uneven, but the thin foam takes care of that. The original cloth is pretty thick, and so no foam was originally used. Re removing the glass; I pulled out the glass with its seal, complete. Getting it back in was another story, not nearly so easy but doable, though one must be careful not to damage the rubber; very expensive to replace! As is everything. Last to be refitted are the black louver panels which are bolted in- very very difficult to access the bolt threads in the body but again doable, just be patient. Not something I'd want to do very often!

Cheers,
Rich

 

Nice work getting the pieces out.

For future reference, for anyone trying this on their own, the bolts holding the rear trim piece under the window should not be drilled out. The metal trim piece attached to the back bulkhead, above the engine, can be removed by unscrewing three nuts that hold it and some lines in place. Once that piece is removed the bolts that hold the interior trim pieces can be unscrewed.

Also, when putting everything back together, use rivets where rivets were used by the factory. I wouldn't recommend screws. 1/8" diameter rivets will work.

-F

 

Quote, "As Rich did, I simply cut away the cloth and drilled through the fiberglass panel to sever the bolts (photo 3). In looking for a solution to fasten that piece back in, I may look around for some plastic or metal spring type clips that will snap back into the hole. Most auto parts stores sell parts like that and I should be able to come up with something that fits."

And my response: If the 308's anything like the 328, there should be 3 small wood blocks that shim up the rear full-width trim piece. After doing the recovering as noted before, to secure it in place as the replacement covering I used was (is) black vinyl, I simply chose an appropriate place to use 2 black screws at the outside ends of the piece, and drilled a starter hole in the rear bulkhead to fasten the self-tapping screws into. I placed the screws as far right & left as I could while still being able to use a short Philips screwdriver to attach the screws. You really can't even see them at all, now! The center of the rear piece is held in place by the upper & lower pieces, meaning the roof trim piece and the "shelf" piece, assuming the 3 tiny wood blocks are correctly placed to hold the trim in correct vertical position. I suggest using some glue to keep them from wandering about Mine's a GTS so the roof trim material doesn't continue across the roof as in the GTB.

And as regards the above comment, "The metal trim piece attached to the back bulkhead, above the engine, can be removed by unscrewing three nuts that hold it and some lines in place", the aluminum piece is very difficult to remove; it involves undoing mechanical/electrical bits on the left side of the engine bay I was frankly unwilling to do. I simply left it in place as it was, and worked from the cockpit side only.

I have no idea why the designers made such an apparently simple task such a challenge; anyway, no matter; I'll never have to do it again, myself- just passing on my particular experience to someone who asked for help on the subject.

Cheers,
Rich

 

Well it is safe to say Ferrari has changed some things from series 1 to series 2 328. There is more to the convex wheel cars than just the reported chassis change / ABS

 

There's no difference between the years in this area.

The nuts holding the lines in place are on the bolts under the aluminum shield and they (three of them) have to be removed to remove the line clips, lines and then aluminum shield, behind which is the hardware that holds the interior trim piece in place.

-F