328 Seat Stuck

Try pushing down on the handle instead.

 

Probably a two person job... one to sit in the seat, operate the release lever and try to shunt the seat forward (the weight down helps the runners)...

and a second person to swear and try to pry the seat forward.

Try to apply the force as low down as possible, so as not to stress the seat back and so that it is in line with the runners you're trying to push. If you can see the end of the seat runner a block of wood and a hammer might just help, but if the seat is fully back I doubt you'd get in like that.




FLIPPANT SUGGESTION - which could land you on JACKASS if it goes wrong!
Or how's about, pull a hard hand brake stop from about 20 mph (without your seat belt) and get your passenger to operate the seat latch. Your weight will then surge forward due to the braking forces, with (hopefully) the seat dragged along by friction on your backside! The physics of this make engineering sense, but whether this is wise to try, I'll leave up to you... I'd only try this in a lot of run out space, in case you are then jammed under the steerting wheel... say an empty car park?


Have fun.

 

I just had the same problem in my 328 with the seat stuck in most rearward position. It wouldn't budge when trying to hop forward. If you look under the seat there is a mechanism which rotates when the seat bar is lifted. If the seat is stuck this mechanism is likely seized and not releasing from the rail. Using a 20 cm extension tube I carefully sprayed some silicone lubricant into the mechanism, which has a gap in the plastic shroud. I the gave under seat bar a few lifts to loosen the mechanism and sprayed again to ensure good penetration. Voila problem solved!

NOTE: Do not use WD40 as it is a water displacing solvent, not a lubricant, which will literally melt some plastics and rubbers.

 

NOTE: Do not use WD40 as it is a water displacing solvent, not a lubricant, which will literally melt some plastics and rubbers.

What it is, IS: essentially, and for our purposes here: an ultra refined kerosene.
Hence the damage to plastics etc.(to say nothing of leathers)
But, the refining is such that this is the commercially desired property: it easily "penetrates" gummed, galled, and corroded fasteners, gears, etc.

A product sold as "Free-All" is an outstanding product, and actually works better in threaded applications, particularly where ferrous and non-ferrous metals are involved(galvanic corrosion/"cold welded").

However-ALWAYS be careful when using ANY aerosol items in proximity to leather interior parts(not really a good idea).
Therefore: spraying a small quantity into the cap and then applying it using syringe-if available-or an eye dropper etc is a much better way to maintain control.