Hey guys what size plug socket will I need to remove spark plugs. TIA
I have always used a standard spark plug socket/extension to remove the plugs on my 328. What, exactly, is the problem you are having?
Yes, the 308 spark plug is a 13/16" hex size, IIRC (so different tool), but the factory 328 tool isn't so great IMO -- I'll agree with Mike that a ratchet, short extension, and proper spark plug socket with magnetic non-contact inserts to "hold" the spark plug (and release more easily than the foam/rubber-type insert) is best. One thing that I like to do to minimize the chance of cross-threading and mucking up the threads in the cylinder head is to not use the socket to reinstall the plug -- better to use a short piece of 5/16"/8mm hose placed a short distance over the insulator so you can (gently) start the first few threads by hand and then pull the hose off the insulator to use the socket. (Maybe less important on the V8s, but I wouldn't do a flat-12 any other way.)
"better to use a short piece of 5/16"/8mm hose placed a short distance over the insulator so you can (gently) start the first few threads by hand" Ah heck, Steve...one of the great lessons in becoming a mechanic is messing up/stripping aluminum threads and learning about Helicoils, etc!! But seriously, Yep, very helpful, especially on the front bank (to avoid personal experience in learning that lesson).
They sell this but I made this one because I couldn't bother to wait. I slide the spark plugs into the holes, follow with this tool and turn it with my fingers to start the plugs in. I am such a weakling I can never cross thread the holes with my finger. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Extension plus swivel works great. I'm not really seeing the issue of lacking the toolkit version. Trust me - compared to removing rear plugs on a Honda Odyssey with a ratchet, the Ferrari is a walk in the park.
I almost always start a plug (or anything I can't see easily) by rotating counter-clockwise until the threads click, then go clockwise. It's sort of an idiot-proof way to engage the threads when sight/feel is poor.
