328 starting issue

Starter, solenoid, or ignition switch in that order.

 

The other path to check/refresh is the large white wire going from terminal 50 of the ignition switch to terminal 50 of the solenoid:

If the white wire at the solenoid is going +12V when you put the key in the "start" position, but the solenoid does not engage = bad solenoid.

If the white wire at the solenoid is not going +12V when you put the key in the "start" position = bad ignition switch or break in the white wire path (IIRC, there is an infamous "white connector" in the dash and a spade connector in the engine bay in that path - but don't have access at the moment to the 328 wiring diagram).

Try a search on something like "terminal 50 white wire" and/or "WAI solenoid" for many prior threads.

You might also check to see if someone has added the "extra" relay near the starter as that could fail too (if present).

 

When this happens, check your running lights / headlights (unswitched).
If you have lights, but no juice at all from the key, I'd suspect the key switch or fuses.

Also, have you had your fuse/relay panel out lately?
The relay panel connectors on a 328 aren't really great, and R&R of the panel can strain the connectors.

 

This doesnt sound like the usual 328 starting issue which is the various connectors in the long wiring path from the ignition switch to the solenoid go bad and result in a cumulative voltage drop. That causes a click as the solenoid tries to activate but there is not enough voltage to pull it in.

If there is no click at all, something is going open circuit when hot and the most likely suspect is the solenoid itself or its connectors but could be something else in the wiring path Steve mentions above. The current path is from connector W on LH of fuse board (2 wires) to the ignition switch then from terminal 50 to the connector behind passenger footrest, down the tunnel to the Molex connector near the top LH shock mount, to the solenoid.

If there is an immobiliser fitted thats another suspect.

 

Remove the ignition switch/disassemble/clean/lubricate contacts with di-electric grease/re-assamble the ignition switch. Note that you have to drill out some rivets on the switch after you remove it (2 screws) from under the dash. Be sure to note which electrical connectors go where! There are 6 as I recall.

 

I had this issue a bit ago, car wouldn't start on occasion. A local shop recommended and installed a relay ( I think someone mentioned that) and car has fire up every time for 2 years now.
Hope this helps.

 

Ruffis, was your fuel pump or starter relay replaced or did they install an additional relay ?

regards
John

 

They installed a relay after the ignition switch from what I remember.

 

The pump will not start until the air metering flap moves from rest.

You could disable this behavior by unplugging the 2-pin connector on the top of the metering unit. Then you will be able to tell if the pump circuit is working as it should start the pump when the key is turned to the ignition on position. If it doesnt, but then does start running when you dick around with the fuses and relays this will indicate a problem in that area. Hopefully the actual fuse board PCB is not damaged/burned. It might be cracked solder joint or bad connection on the multi-way plugs which are not very good.

 

The starter solenoid needs 12 volts to pull it in, this then connects the battery 12 volts to the starter and away she goes. These cars can suffer from the 12 volts to the solenoid dropping enough that it is too low to pull in the solenoid, hence you turn the key and nothing. You can try a 2nd time and away it goes.
To save you taking the car apart, rig an extra wire at the solenoid to pick up the voltage it gets when the key is turned to start it- run this into the car and connect to a test meter, connect the earth to the bodywork.

Just keep an eye on the meter voltage when you start it, if it shows low voltage when you have a start problem then you have your fault- if this is the case you can get a relay kit on here to get around this problem.

 

But its worth starting the troubleshooting by unplugging it to ensure the pump does start when ignition is on.

 

I had this on my 328 - and it turned out to be a bad post on one of the electrical connectors in the passengers side foot well. just had the key on with the protection relay un plugged, and listened for the buzzing sound. giggling the wires and connectors - bang found the problem. you could see that one of the poster were darker than the others - and that was the culprit. spliced in an inline connector - and no more issues. I had to un mount the fuse board as well and trace those wires and connectors as well.

mine is an 86 328