328 Steering Box Leak

I had a new drip today just inboard of the left front tire. Seems to be the bottom front of the steering box. I did a search and saw some threads on replacing/rebuilding the entire rack and pinion steering and a thread on the fluid.

Is replacing the seal and filling with new fluid somwhat easy? Looks like it can stay in the car to do since it is exposed from the bottom. I will have to do it myself since I am far from a dealer.

 

I just had the rack out of my 77 GTB twice. I do not see anyway of working on the rack with it in the car, unless your simply replacing a torn boot. The boot would allow oil to leak out if it were torn however. The only other seal is on the pinion shaft, and I wouldnt have a clue where you could locate one. The back side uses a paper gasket, and the bottom plate uses an o-ring seal. I believe the oil that was in it was gear oil, but on reassembly I put 30 weight motor oil in mine.

I removed mine because the right side was totally loose, like the outer bushing was worn. When I got it apart I found no bushing at all! Just a metal sleeve. Being conservative, I made a new bushing from Delron and left about .005" clearance, but this was also to loose. The second time I left about .003" clearance and dang if its still not a lil loose. I'll tackle it again this fall, and will probably drop it to something like .0005" and hope it doesnt get tight when its warm.

 

Paul would you care to share with us a sort of step by step procedure of removing and refitting the steering rack?I also have to tackle this soon and would like to know any pointers.Thanks in advance....Maurice. PS:Sorry for the hijack

 

Mine is leaking where the red line is. It is exposed underneath the car and looks accessable.
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

There are some shims under that cover plate, and a shoe that presses on the rack. The shoe has a spring, and an O-ring. It its really leaking right there, its probably the O-ring seal.

In the picture Mule offers, there are bolts and bushings that hold the rack to the chassis. I was able to reach the bolt heads through the battery panel opening. I used a short wrench on the nuts and backed the bolts out. Once the nuts are all off you can wiggle the rack and get the washers and bolts out. Its tight, but I worked through the wheel wells without ever going underneath the second time. The second time I had the rack out in less than half an hour. You do get faster once youve done it.

Detach the tie rod ends. Shock blows with two hammers to the steering arm will pop the joints apart without resorting to a pickle fork. Alternatively they sell presses but I have never used one. Disconnect the steering shaft at the rack by removing the small pinch bolt (10mm wrench and socket) and slide the two shafts apart. You may need to gently pry it some to get it started. I was able to reach in under the the steering column and pull it up and off.

Now with all the bolts and joints disconnected, you can carefully fish the rack out through the left drivers side of the car, being careful of wires and cables. Installation is in reverse with the following considerations. If the car presently was aligned and had good toe in, you can eyeball the wheels for being centered and make sure the steering wheel is centered before slipping the steering shaft back on. I placed a long tape measure against the back wall, and eyeballed along the edge of the front wheels to see the same distance on either side of the car to center the steering rack. With the steering wheel centered and held ( I tied the wheel off so it couldnt rotate ) and with the rack centered, you can then slide the shafts together.

To do this correctly, if say you were installing a new rack for example, you would actually have to turn the rack pinion full left, then full right, precisely counting turns, and then turn back half the distance exactly. Alternatively, you could measure the distance the rack shaft protrudes from the housing, and make sure each side is the same measure. This later procedure would be most accurate. Then with the steering shaft centered, attach the two shafts. Now when you have the car aligned for toe in, they can begin with the wheel centered and simply adjust the tie rods to center the wheels. If you have a trammel guage (or you can make one quite simply) you can very simply (and quite accurately) set the toe in yourself.

 

Dealer says it is a gasket, but not available, so I will be making one or using a sealer.

From reading other posts, my plan is to remove the cover where it is leaking and put in a new gasket (and drain old fluid). Then remove the top plate and refill. I can reach the lower plate from underneath, and the upper plate from the left wheel well. I can see the entire box with the front deck lid open, so I may be able to refill with a long hose. No need to pull the rack apart or out for this. But Paul, I am saving your directions for sure. Great write up.

HOWEVER...when I pull off those plates, I keep reading "springs, and shims and shoes". What is underneath the lower and upper plates that is going to jump out and bite me?

I know the manual gives a recommendation for refill, but the dealer says 80/90 Wt gear oil will be fine. ??

 

Thank you for all of the great info, however I was wrong. it is my ABS Aux pump leaking which is just in front of the steering box. I started a new thread, but I am saving all of the great info from this one (which made me look harder before taking things apart).

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=135986192#post135986192

 

My bad, I was looking at it backwards. You are correct, its a paper gasket on that cover.

 

Thanks Paul your write up is simple and much appreciated.

 

Paul just a quick question,Can you remove and refit the bush without having to completely dimantle the rack?Or does the rack have to come apart completely?Thanks in advance

 

No. Besides, it takes longer to get it out than it does to take it apart. Be careful not to misplace any shims or anything to do with the bearings on the pinion. Depending on the year or if the rack was replaced, the tie rod end is attached differently. Some have a roll pin. Mine and one other lister have something different. The main nut is pinned between the lock nut, and the lock nut is also pinned. The pins only go in a short ways and are piened down into the metal so they wont come loose. You have to drill them and pick them out. I used the shank of a small bolt I cut off to replace them, cut about twice the length of the hole. I simply placed them in the old holes, and hammered them in until flat and then used a center punch to further expand them into the holes. Dont forget there is a small sheet metal screw in the outboard end that screws into the bushing to hold it.

 

Again many thanks Paul.When I pull it out if I get stuck with anything I'll give you a shout