328 Transaxle rebuild recommendations

Bugger of a job, requires specialty tools. And the bigger issue is actually getting parts of they're needed. Bearings can be sourced as well as the ring nuts. But beyond that.. total gamble.
Id flip it over, pull the pan and visually inspect. More then likely it's just fine. They're robust as long as they've been properly maintained.

 

I did my 308 transmission decades ago, it needed second gear synchro. At the time, parts were cheap and readily available. The tools were a little challenging to find, but I recall modifying various specilized sockets to work. I haven't bought gearbox parts from SuperFormance, but seems they're readily available, see: https://www.superformance.co.uk/328/gearbox.html

I agree with smg2, if the gearbox worked fine before removal, an inspection could (to me) include:
- Looking for metallic particles in the lube when draining
- Checking the diff output flange radial play
- Checking the synchronizer blocker ring gaps by moving the three forks toward each gear to just barely start the synchro engagement, if the synchro gap is ~.030 or more (? I don't recall the exact spec) they may be just fine. See this short tutorial starting at 4 minutes 40 seconds. When the gap closes up, the conical "clutching surface" to match speeds can't do its job and grinds when trying to close the teeth.

Good luck and please keep the thread posted on what direction you go...

 

I think the sensible thing is to inspect the bearings and synchros, clean everything to spotless
Then make sure you use Redline 75W90 MTL gear oil.
Also you will get a new clutch? I changed mine and it changed from occasion grind of 2nd gear to NEVER CAN grind.
Then I am on a budget to.

I sense you are more concern for quality than price and just want it done once and done right.
Do not pay somebody to learn on your dollar, get somebody who has done it before, knows the situations and even owns one 328.
Ship it to Brian Crall (rifledriver) and know you ar ebuying experience done right.

 

Forgot to add for the OP, it's also easy and necessary to inspect both sides of each shift fork, they're a wear surface. This can be accelerated when drivers rest their hand on the shifter while in gear and not shifting. And I agree with Sergio, so true that Redline 75w90 MTL does wonders in the 3x8 cambio.

 

How would you ship this safety of the long shaft?
Make the plywood box and line it with carpet?

This does need much cleaning!

 

This post is very timely. I'm assisting a friend who believes he needs to replace the 1st/R synchro on his 87'328. We are having a debate as to whether this can be done with the transaxle remaining in the car. I have never replaced a synchro on a 3x8 before but presume the entire lay shaft must be removed from the car to do the job? My assumption was that there was not enough clearance to remove the main/lay shafts with the transaxle in the car due to the frame and suspension components being in the way. He pointed me to a car enthusiast website from Germany where someone described doing this job with the engine/transaxle in place so maybe it's possible? 308 GTSi Wasserverlust - Ferrari 308 / 328 Forum - Carpassion.com. (photos from the website post included below)? Curious if anyone has ever done it this way?

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Nor would I ever consider it. Removing the power unit is just not that hard.

 

I could not imagine doing it that way. As I get older and older I want everything at a comfortable working distance. can't even imagine the funny positions you would have to get into just to try such a feat. Good access is needed for good results.

 

Exactly, takes an afternoon to get it on the bench.
Way, way easier after that to pull em apart.

 

I put a new clutch in my 246 and my suspicious synchro problem went away.
Not saying it is the same but it amazed me that a clutch made such a great change and I had almost convinced myself it was the synchro