So I hate to even admit I actually stalled, but I guess it happens every now and then. I had just taken the car out for a short drive, probably 3-4 miles all told. It started fine, ran fine, not a hint of trouble. I stopped and turned the car off twice, restarted with no issues. I back the car into the garage and there is a bit of a ramp in front. Babying in reverse and making sure everything is lined up, and for the first time since I've had my 328 (only a week), I stalled. The trouble is immediately it won't restart. I tried a few times, letting it sit in between, then went inside and really let it sit for 30 minutes, still no luck. It turns over fine, I think twice it sounded like a hint of trying to catch but really not. Can you actually flood a fuel injected car on a stall? I thought "flooding" went away with carburetors but reading that it can happen in cold engines, but obviously this wasn't cold. I have the car in the garage with the hood up for the night. Any thoughts on what would cause or where to troubleshoot? Should I just let it sit and hope it will in the morning? Thanks for any help.
Yeah, you can flood a fuel-injected engine. I once did it in a Porsche 928. The remedy is the same as with carbs -- crank the engine with the throttle pedal floored. Give that a try.
Unplug the safety switch and turn the key "on" = you should hear the fuel pump run. If it's dead = you know that needs to be investigated (blown fuse, frazzled connector, bad relays, bad fuel pump, etc.). If you can hear the fuel pump run, check for spark during cranking -- an inexpensive spark tester is very easy to use (if you don't have a timing light). We always start at the same place -- spark or fuel
Safety switch pulled (blue connector), no noise from the fuel pump when turned to on. What is the best sequence to troubleshoot which it is? What connectors am I looking at? (seems very odd timing for something to "break" and go from running to dead on a simple clutch stall)
1. Check fuel pump fuse, if OK, 2. Remove the fuel pump relay and touch a jumper wire from the female 30 metal terminal in the relay socket to the female 87 metal terminal in the relay socket = the fuel pump should run (even with the key "off'). Image Unavailable, Please Login If it does run = try a different ...113 relay for the fuel pump relay and a different ...101 relay for the start injector (or something like that) relay (both are involved in running the fuel pump). Then repeat the safety switch unplugged, key "on" test. If now OK, you know you need a new relay(s). If the fuel pump doesn't run with the 30-to-87 jumper in place, check the fuel pump wiring connector in the passenger footwell for frazzling - it's the large P (beige) wire: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
OK, did some reading and when I jumper out the fuel pump relay, the pump kicks in with the safety switch unplugged. Relay back in place and no pump again. So you are saying to try a different relay in its place? I saw in another post they aren’t all the same. Any suggestions on which ones?
Yes, but there are two relays involved -- I'll repeat: "If it does run = try a different ...113 relay for the fuel pump relay and a different ...101 relay for the start injector (or something like that) relay (both are involved in running the fuel pump). Then repeat the safety switch unplugged, key "on" test. If now OK, you know you need a new relay(s)." The complete relay numbers are stamped on their metal cases (unless your relays have already been changed to the plastic case type).
I swapped the horn relay for the fuel pump relay (113) and all got the fuel pump to run with the safety wire disconnected. Put it all back to normal (save no horn) and it starts fine now. Thanks for the help! Any favored places to buy relays? I’m starting a list of sites to buy parts.
No, but these (...113 and ...101) are not exotic relays. If you take it to any autoparts store, they could give you an equivalent. I believe the metal case Bosch relays are NLA. My notes have: Bosch 0332014113 (metal case) = Bosch 0332019151 (black plastic case) = Tyco V23234-C0001-X006 (brownish/orangeish plastic case) but there are many other brands of the same thing, too.
Likely that the OP didn't stall the car. The FP relay failed and that killed the car. The OP's record of not stalling the car is still intact.
Harder to find an equivalent in stock locally than you'd think. I drove to the 3 biggest in town, and the only crossover someone could produce they were sure was actually a crossover had a big tab on the top that for certain wouldn't have fit behind the passenger panel here. The Bosch crossover is available in a few places online in a tan case.. made in portugal. found an amazon seller that has the black ones, made in germany... think I'll get those. Do you have a cross reference for the 101 relay? I will probably keep a spare of each around, they aren't exactly expensive.
Bosch 0332204101 (metal case) = Bosch 0332209151 (black plastic case) = Tyco V23234-A0001-X037 (purple plastic case)
So The bosch number you sent comes up with a purple case made in portugal. .... Any reason you wouldn't trust the Portugal made version?
Doesn’t the relay usually have the diagram on the side of the relay case, can’t you not just match it?
