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328 won't start

Discussion in '308/328' started by SoIllFerrari, Aug 13, 2017.

  1. SoIllFerrari

    SoIllFerrari Formula Junior
    Owner

    Aug 16, 2005
    387
    IL
    Full Name:
    CD
    Need help from the FChat brain trust.
    My 328 wouldn't start one day, no sound from the fuel pump. I checked the fuses and the pump, but since it was original I replaced it. Turn the key and the car fires right up and I drive it around for a few days.
    A few days later it is parked and home and I turn the key and......same problem. It cranks, but no fuel pump noise. Recheck every connection, fuses, relay, and nothing.

    What do I do next?
     
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  3. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

    Jun 14, 2008
    5,841
    TX//Mexico/UK
    Full Name:
    Mike 996
    Well, it sounds like the fuel pump itself wasn't the problem. Did you check the relay to ensure it has good connection/no corrosion?
     
  4. SoIllFerrari

    SoIllFerrari Formula Junior
    Owner

    Aug 16, 2005
    387
    IL
    Full Name:
    CD
    Relays are good.
     
  5. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2005
    2,732
    Full Name:
    F683
    Try rapping on the fuel pump lightly with a wooden pole, or something like that, while someone is trying to start the car.
     
  6. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2005
    2,732
    Full Name:
    F683
    How did you test the relay(s)?
     
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  8. lopena

    lopena Formula Junior
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 3, 2003
    475
    Check the circuit board and all of the plugs and connections in the passenger footwell (remove the access panel).

    I had a bad connection there (inside one of the plugs!) that drove me crazy for weeks.

    When your car won't start, wiggle a wire or two near the circuit board...if it then starts you've likely found your problem.
     
  9. st@ven

    st@ven F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 4, 2008
    3,064
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Steven
    first thing I would do is disconnect the blue connection on the airflow meter. with this removed the pump should start as soon as you switch on the contact.
     
  10. JohnnyTS

    JohnnyTS Formula Junior

    Jun 3, 2012
    834
    just outside JHB, RSA
    Full Name:
    John
    Did you check the connection on the brought plug below the passenger side foot well ?

    early 328 had a issue with the connection becoming warm and looses proper contact at times, this is on the fuel pump circuit, this was sorted out on later models with the connection bypassed, wire went straight through (not using a contact point on that plug )

    there's an older thread here with good pictures.

    regards
    Johnny
     
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  12. spirot

    spirot F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 12, 2005
    13,076
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    Tom Spiro
    So I had this problem as well, and it turned out to be the fuel pump connector both behind the foot board on passengers side, as well as connector behind the fuse block. they get, hot and burn out/ crack.

    as someone else stated, disconnect the connector to the fuel distributer. then put the key in and turn to ignition slot 1 , no need to try to start the car. if that circuit is energized you should her a "buzz" pretty loud... if not then you know its the fuel pump circuit. if it is buzzing then you need to look at the starter motor, and then spark/ coil, etc..

    check fuses - obviously. there is also a protection relay with a fuse under the rear side of the luggage compartment on the passengers side. un bolt the plate and turn upside down. some times - but un likely - there will be a disconnection from the electronic control box... you will see a large relay with a fuse in it.. check that:
    1. its plugged in correctly
    2. the fuse is not burnt out or cracked or rusted.
    3. the connectors are clean, and tightly connected... these can in some cased get damp, and rusty ... but usually they are fine.


    for the fuse panel, un do the two screws holding it on the dash, gently pull it down and forward., you will then see a lot of wiring ... be gentle as its old, and takes "set - so you can crack wires... but then you will see white connectors - look for any dark spots... that means the plastic is burt, or brittle and connections are not working. if blue connector is un plugged, from the fuel distributor, and the key is on, and after moving the connectors - you here it start to buzz - you have found your fault area.

    mine would do this intermittently - once it was warm out side, I think it just continued to crack with the heat expanding the wires etc... good luck....Most likely it will turn out to be something pretty simple.. but a PITA to find.
     
  13. NW328GTS

    NW328GTS Formula 3

    Nov 16, 2009
    2,191
    Washington
    Full Name:
    Hal
    Mine did the same thing... it was the connector in the passenger foot well. I would check the connections there. I ended up pulling the connector apart and connecting the wires directly.
     
  14. pad

    pad Formula 3

    Sep 30, 2004
    1,409
    Tequesta, FL
    Full Name:
    Paul Delatush
    I had the same issue as stated above. The problem turned out to be a burnt connection in the plastic connector located on the left side of the fuse panel. Note that when is occurs, the actual metal connector becomes fatigued and will need to be replaced.
     
  15. spirot

    spirot F1 World Champ
    Rossa Subscribed

    Dec 12, 2005
    13,076
    Atlanta
    Full Name:
    Tom Spiro
    Yes - usually the heat created burns / melts the plastic and it becomes very brittle... you have to be careful to not create more damage, when fixing this.
     
  16. NW328GTS

    NW328GTS Formula 3

    Nov 16, 2009
    2,191
    Washington
    Full Name:
    Hal
    Exactly.

    In the end its not really worth replacing the connector when it fails. Its not like it ever really gets used to disconnect anything.

    I just got rid of the connector altogether in the foot well and soldered the wires directly and used heat shrink on them to insulate.
     

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