328GTS HEADLAMP MOTOR WIRING

Are the plugs cut off at the motor side or the harness side?
Which side of car left, right or both?

 

You have two plugs coming from the motor - I'm not sure of the colour of the plugs.
I assume that the gounding wire is in place and will only talk about the feed wires.
Both plugs have a butt connector and a receptacle (female) for a butt connector.
The control wires from the car are in two "pairs".
Left side of car: brown/black and grey are one pair, green/black and red/black the other.
Right side of car: Brown and grey resp. green/black and red
Lets look at the right side for simplicity:
The red wire is the motor supply from the relay and is connected to the butt connector on one of the plugs.
Apply 12 volts to one of the butt connectors and if the motor is running, this should be connected to the red wire - if not, try the other butt connector. The green/black wire is then the other half of this pair for this plug.
When you have identified this plug, the grey wire will then go to the butt connector of the other plug and the brown to the female connector.
The same goes for left side except of course for the wire colours.
I hope this wasn't too confusing - I had to read it a few times myself to understand what I wrote

 

The lift motor system is controlled by 4 relays.
One "Relay for light lifting motors" supplying a ground connection to the motor relay system when low or high beam is switched on (actually the relay is resting when low or high beam is switched on and energized if only parking lights are on (switch in upper postion and turned). When energized, power to the motor circuit is disrupted) - lets call this relay "A".
When the relay is resting, it supplies ground to a "master" motor relay, "B", "Relay for head-lamps lifting motor".
This relay then supply power to the two separate lifting motor relays via rotary position switches in the motor housings. These relays are called "Relay for L.H. (R.H) head lamp lifting motor", let's call them "C" and "D".
And now to the more interesting part.
The grey wire is always live from the battery via fuse 1, when "B" motor relay is not energized.
As soon as you turn on the headlights, relay "B" pull and supply power to the green/black wires for both sides, grey wire goes dead.
If the lights are down, a rotary switch inside the motor housing will energize "C" and "D" relays via the brown and brown/black wires. These relays will then pull and supply power to the motors via the red and red/black wires. When the rotary switchs have turned sufficiently, the power supply to "C" and "D" relays are cut off and the motors stop.
When the lights eventually are turned off, the "B" relay is released, the rotary switches are again powered via the grey wires and the motors run until the switch is back to where it started.

Since you have power on the grey wire at all times it looks like the "B" relay is not activated at all.
If you take off the cover for the electrical panel you see 3 rows of relays - upper row with two relays, middle row with nine relays and the lower row with seven relays.
Relay A is the upper row, second from left relay
Relay B is the middle row, eighth from left.
Relay C is the middle row, seventh from left (LH motor)
Relay D is the lower row, seventh from left (RH motor)
All these relays are identical - Bosch 0 332 204 101
I think your problem is with relay A or B - try to clean connections and/or switch them around.
(If you are confident with it, try to connect relay "B" terminal 85 to ground - the motors should run without turning on the lights if the relay is working, no need for ignition on, since the system is powered directly from the battery - be careful not to short anything out and to ground the correct terminal.)
Hope this helps.
rgds Kurt

 

Mine is -86 so they should be identical.

Relays should be arranged like this:

XX
XXXXXXXXX
XXXXXX

Actually, to add to the confusion, the relay I called "A" is called "t" in the official diagram.
My "B" is "d", my "C" and "D" are "e" and "b".

This gives this picture:

Xt
XXXXXXedX
XXXXXXb

Grounding terminal 85 on "d" should energize it and send + 12volts to the green/black wires - this should make the motors run and lift the lights.
When fully up, removing the ground again makes the grey wire live and the motors should run and close the lights.

If you don't have 12 volts on the other side of the coil of "d" check fuse 1 as this is supplying power directly to the relay from the battery.

You can find a good diagram here:

http://www.ferrari.jenkins.org/books/1989_328_wiring.pdf

- it is valid for an -89 US car, but can be used for this.

Lots of other good stuff, too.

rgds Kurt

 

Ahhhh, just realized that if you were grounding relay "b", the official "b", not my "B", you would get the results as you mentioned = nothing. That relay need + 12 volts from the motor rotary switch on terminal 85 to pull (and send 12 volts back to the motor via the red wire), as terminal 86 (other side of coil) is permanently grounded.
Another thing - if you can get the motors to run as you mentioned earlier, fuse 1 should be OK. I wasn't thinking......
When turning the lights switch - parking lights on - relay "t" pulls and cuts power to the main lighting system, including the motor lifting system. When pushing the light switch down to low or hi beam position, relay "t" releases and supply power to relay "o" (and the motor circuit) - thats when you hear relay "o" click

Keep us informed, please.

rgds Kurt

 

Glad to be of service.
You have, of course, checked the right main beam lamp? And fuse?
If OK it must be a connection issue, since both sides run off the same relay
and the left side is working.
brgds
Kurt

 

Mine is a -86 328 US version, very happy with it, had it since 98.
Had a few issues with the standard stuff, windows, oil leak, oil pressure too high. Other than that no big problems.
I'm doing all the work myself - gives you a special kind of satisfaction (not to mention more money in your own wallet).

Anyway, glad everything got sorted out - have a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.
We'll probably meet again here on Fchat
rgds Kurt

 

Hi All,
This is a new bit of information for a very old post.

Before I write anything… my thanks to Kurt on this posting who outlined for me how this system worked…. For me the “tricks” were to first understand ground circuits and secondly to understand exactly how each pin on 30, 87, 87a, 85 and 86 worked for the 4 relays invoked in the exact order of sequence….

First, I have a 1988.5 328 GTB whose headlamp motors would not lift but the lights would turn on.
Second. The failure happened on a cold rainy night with the car getting very wet.
Third. I downloaded and studied the pdf file … specifically Figure 6 for the electrical schematic. I’m no engineer but drawing out by hand the circuitry and adding colors of the wires helped a lot as did recognizing which connectors route which wires and where. Felt like I was back in elementary school coloring this complex hand made chart reduced down from 4 notebook pages to two.

to that end I can send anyone a scanned copy of this diagram I made….

Fourth. I went and bought a Power Probe 4, Power Probe Hook, ECT 3000, Cal Van 76 relay port checker, Relay Buddy relay checker, Voltmeter, and 12 v light probe. You don’t need all this gear (now I know)

I checked every single relay port (and relay function for all 4 relays in my relay tester) for “t” and “d” as well as “e” and “b”. Also all voltages for resting state and energized state (normally “t” is always energized blocking power to the distribution relay “d”. When the stalk switch is turned to headlights ON, the energized “t” becomes de-energized and the resting “t” now shifts so that ground can be pulled away from the blue yellow stripe wire (and ground) to the green wire … which in turn energizes “d”…. When “d” is energized the current to the grey wires feeding the diodes in the rotary switches falls and green with black comes on….. subsequently the brown wire ( and brown black stripe) will hook up to “e” and “b” motor lifting relays…(I called these the request for high power wires)…... activating these relay switches so that high power (red and red with black stripe) will feed the motors and the headlamps lift.

I’m such a newbie at electrical work…. But that HOOK power probe was extremely useful in seeing voltages and also testing ground immediately.

it was also cool to be able to send direct 12v power to the motors at pin 30 on relays “e” and “b” to see if they work.

I also want to suggest carefully cleaning the battery ground strap bolt and aluminum base attached to the chassis adjacent to the radiator pipe on the left side…. Mine was kinda dirty. Also cleaning the red colored plastic ground strap connector for that woven metal ground strap and using dielectric grease afterwards.

mad for the famous potential broken solder connection at the stalk switch….please (I beg you) use a gallon sized zip lock bag surrounding the stalk if you pull it apart. That tiny ball bearing will somehow go MIA propelled by the spring inside…. The bag will catch the ball bearing if it pops out……

In summary:
1) there is a system where the power to the motors is blocked by “t” when lights are off accomplished by blue with yellow stripe wire grounding
2) there is a system via relay “d” to send 12v via the grey wires to the diodes to make sure lamps are down when the stalk switch is off.
3) there is a system to verify via the rotary switches in the motors via green wire to see if power is needed once the stalk switch is turned on….
4) in turn the brown wire goes back and activates relay switches in “e” and “b” to allow 12v high power to flow to the motors… voila… they pop up.

I hope this is of help to those of you out there who may run into this issue!

Darryl

 

Hi Darryl
Im embarking on solving my non raising , non turning on 328 headlights . Do you still have the diagram you mentioned , greatly appreciate a copy if you do !
Many Thanks
Marco

 

Assuming it's operating like the 400, there is a rotary switch and diodes that do send feedback to the relays (in order to keep power applied till the headlight has reached the desired position).

This rotary switch requires fresh dielectric grease, as bad grease may interupt the feeback signal before the motor has completed its half rotation. From time to time the diodes may also fail.

The harder part is to remove the rubber boot without tearing it apart. The rest is straightforward.

Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login