328GTS Headlight question. Source?

They are a pretty syandard size light, so you should be able to find them locally. 7 inch round, I believe (#6024?)Buy a pair and replace both, so that one is not brighter than the other.

I have aftermarket ones with a replaceable bulb, which are a little brighter. I just turned on the headlights, did a "hot swap", then drove the car to make sure the battery was still charged.

 

These are standard H6024 round headlights. Most auto parts stores will carry them.

The two rightmost relays on the lower bank (just to the left of the empty 8 pin plug) are for the headlight motor. I haven't tried it, nor have I traced out the circuit on the (labyrinthine) wiring diagram, but pulling these might stop the lights from lowering.

But these are only 12 volt bulbs. They don't get as hot as, say, a 150W household bulb. And it's a good idea to be sure the new bulb works (both high and low beam) before putting the trim ring (or the the 328's case - panel) back on. (It's rare, but I've gotten dead bulbs from the store. Sometimes shipping isn't perfect.) (And in this climate, a little warmth is a good thing. )

While you're there, you'll probably want to adjust the headlamp pointing -- something few people apparently do, anymore.

So swapping the bulbs with the headlamps on is a good idea.

A magnetized screwdriver or "clamp" (hemostat) (available from Radio Shack or a medical supply house) can let you seat screws without having to stick your fingers in the moving bits -- and makes it less likely to drop them.

But you don't need to fully remove the deep screws on the headlamp retaining ring. Loosen them, then give the retaining ring a slight twist. It uses a "keyhole" type retainer, and should come off without having to remove the screws completely.

 

All you need to do to stop the lights from lowering, and I strongly suggest you do this to work on them at all, is raise the lights then disconnect the battery. The headlights will then be safe to work on without worrying about losing a finger!!

If you want to change to the lens and bulb type you can find them here...
http://www.rallylights.com/

 

You could lose a finger that way.

Turn on the headlights, reach under the bonnet and pull the red battery disconnect located just behind the driver's side headlight. The lights will stay up. After you change the bulbs, plug the disconnect back in and check them, then turn off the lights.

 

Hey!

I upgraded both my 308's and 328's lights way back when and kept the original 6024 lamps (all in good shape). These (as you know) are "sealed beam" lamps so you can't just swap out the lighting elements.

Ferrari of UK sells these for $280 a pair (Ferrari of UK has great service and usually good prices, but these seem a little high to me...). PM (Private Message) me if you're interested in one (or two) of mine.

--Mike
1978 308 GTS #23785 (Sold)
1987 328 GTS #73651
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P.S. I changed my lights as follows... Turn the headlights on, so that the lifter motors activate. Pull the headlamp motor fuse(s) (was there more than one?). Turn the car off. Disconnect battery. Replace headlamps.

Be cautious when replacing the lamps not to muck with the aiming/adjuster screws--one on top of the assemly that holds the lamp in place, and one on the side. (Unless of course you want to re-aim your headlights).

Also, when undoing the headlamp buckets, go easy and be patient. They're flathead screws and it doesn't take much to slip the screwdriver and muck up the paint. Also go easy with removing the buckets themelves, just go slowly and they'll come off.

Post back here if you have more questions!

 

Great advice, guys.
I am having problem with my headlights also so I will change them today.
Thanks.

 

Not if you don't stick your finger "in harm's way".

My wiring diagram doesn't show a battery disconnect. There's a "battery switch" between the battery and the starter motor, but another hot wire runs straight to the fuse/relay panel bypassing the switch. The diagram does show another (or the same) "battery switch" on the battery ground cable, which would isolate the battery power.

But I'd probably go with either unplugging the cable at the motor, or pulling the motor relays. That way, the motors are disabled, but you can still check the bulb (and connector) before you put it all back together. It was on the Alfa, but I have gotten a dead 6024 from the store.

I usually just let it go with using tools to reach into the moving bits, and rely on my reflexes. Maybe at my age I shouldn't rely on the reflexes as much. (But if I let myself think that way, I'd sell the Ferrari and get one of those GMs with 40 degrees of slop in the steering -- and the blinker permanently on.)

 

The Hella "euro code" replacement headlights from Rally Lights, are by far the best dollar/performance upgrade you can do for your lighting. For around $80 delivered you can get a 300% improvement in output and eveness of light pattern.

Sorry, but ANY sealed beam replacement is a compromise...whether standard or halogen. Even Hella's own sealed beam halogen light (dot compliant) is not as good as their "euro code" version.

 

Hella makes a round light replacement which has replacement bulbs. I have used this on on other cars and it works great. The really cool thing is you can pick the wattage or cool blue or any other type. A great alternative.