Photos of under-dash connection. Hope that helps at least a little. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dear Kevin, Thanks a lot, very helpful. I see that: - the cable, just after the lever, makes a big curve with small radius whih is not the most suutable. But I will try to optimize the route up to the hole that you confirmed the good one to cross the fire wall. - the sheath is just pluged within a small femelle tube on the dash side, which I guess is not a solid grip. So, I would be interested to know/see how it is fixed up on the cabs side, just rear of the rearest carb. If you could tell me, or take a picture of the very end of the black sheath below the air filter as I did, I would be very grateful Thanks again, Best Jean-Paul
John-Paul Well, I’m not sure the choke knob assembly is completely correct. There is no way to firmly attach the cable to that ferrule, and I can’t believe that is correct? And, yes, the routing under my dash is less than optimal, but it suffices, and I don’t want to remove my dash cover or center console to reroute it. On the carb side of the firewall, again no way to firmly attached the cable, so I unceremoniously attached it to a pipe with a plastic zip tie. Definitely not a concourse solution, but it works. Hope these pics help. Good luck!
Thanks Kevin, very helpful also these other pics. According to all these pictures, one can sum up that the sheath appears "free" on the carb side, the wire being secured by the choke arm bolt on the carbs (the plastic clamp not even necessary). The sheath, on the dash side, is plugged in its femelle bracket (additionaly, can be slightly crimped) and blocked by a sharp curve against the vertical plate in front which, at the end, prevents any moving of this sheath. Best regards, Jean-Paul
Jean-Paul My experience is that both ends need to be “fixed” somehow. As I am not fully satisfied with the routing of my cable, I haven’t yet crimped the ferrule on the chock lever assembly. But I also have a sticking choke assembly on carb #3 (closest to firewall) which causes the cable to bind a bit. It will all get resolved over time, but not a priority for me right now. Good luck with your installation. Oh, and I’m using .055” (1.4mm) vs .059” (1.5mm) cable because of the tight bends in my routing.
Well, technically speaking and everything is done correctly, neither end of the cable sheathing needs to be "fixed", crimped or otherwise secured to their respective brackets (guys at the factory obviously didn't bother either), but doing so will provide cleaner/neater appearance and, all else being equal/well sorted, may provide smoother operation. Just out of curiosity, did you add that extra bracing on the lever assembly or was it already done previously ?
Timo, Right you are for the carbs side. Under dash side the sheath is just plugged in the small femelle tube of the bracket (may be with some natural "cramping".That the way I will set next weak when having piano cord 1,5mm and Bowden cable. i do not see the meaning of "extra bracing on the lever"? It works smoothly, lights the bulb when in, and seems ok. FYI, I attach picture of my GTC under-dash. thanks, Jean-paul Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jean-Paul, my comment was in reference to Kevin’s (“fasthound”) under dash photos of the lever assembly, not yours.
Indeed, I should have paid more attention to your wording to remind me of the Kevin’s pic. Anyway, your conclusion on free endinds is the good one
I hadn’t even noticed the extra bracing. That’s how the car was when I received it. Have no idea who added that or when.