330 GTC fuel options

Hello. Welcome to FerrariChat.

I'm not sure where you're from, and it depends on location, but most fuels at the time the 330s were new used tetraethyl and/or tetramethyl lead, which is usually unavailable now.

I have a 330 GT, and usually use 94 or 93 ocatane, even though I think that it's completely unecessary with the engines 8.8:1 compression ratio. But I still use it.

There's no need to make changes to your carburettors when using different octanes. A change is only necessary when you wish to adjust the air/fuel mixture, as when using a car at extreme altitudes.

--Matt

 

I must jump in here. I've been running my GTC on the cheapest regular unleaded fuel available for the last 12 years. When I had the right cylinder head off around 6 years ago, I checked the valve seats and they were PERFECT!!

The only additive I use is Gumout carburator cleaner - a bottle every few months. I plan to rebuild the engine at 200,000 miles - if it needs it.

Bob Z.

 

Two things to consider: compression ratio and hardened valve seats. Most old exotics have long ago been fitted with the hardened valve seats so unleaded gas is fine. Don't wreck your engine on my say so, but if the car has had any engine work in the last 20 or so years it should have been done.

Higher compression engines need more octane; I have no idea what yours is but if it's 9:1 or less, regular unleaded should be fine. My car is 9.5 and I use premium, but one can retard the ignition a bit if it's pinging with regular. This will rob a bit of performance and make the car a tick slower off the line but won't harm the engine.

Ken

 

Have other 330/365 owners used lower octane 87 fuel without problems?
Thank you

 

Did F not give some sort of minimum requirement/spec for that model? What is your CR presently?

 

I tried 87 octane Chevron in my Daytona and it was not happy. The power loss was noticeable and it wasn't as quick to rev up. I couldn't hear if it was pinging over the cacophany of the engine. I tried 89 mid-grade and I see no difference from 92.

C/R on the Daytona is either 8.8:1 or 9.2:1 depending on who you talk to. My car is a Euro version. I have head that Euro cars had the higher C/R. The parts manual only shows one piston type for all models, but I"m not sure I believe it.

[edit] I read recently somewhere (Octane Mag?) that lead was necessary for soft iron valve seats, as found on some cast iron heads (like some Brit cars). Aluminum heads typically had hard enough steel valve seats that lead is not required. FWIW...

-steve

 

I am looking into getting myself one 330GTC so would be nice if you can give me some advice as to being an owner of one for at least 12 years on its upkeeping maintenance costs, any regular symptoms, what to watch out etc.

 

I run premium in my 365 GTS. The engine is in original condition and has factory compression. Even though it is unnecessary, I like to add NOS octane boost (racing formula). The car runs a little more crisp. Has a little better performance and improves the muffler sounds. Try it!

 

Hello, Zane - In my opinion, the GTC is is one of the best all-around Ferraris ever made. Properly maintained, it is a fine everyday driver that will hold its own with many modern machines.

There are really no weak points that I'm aware of - I bought mine in 1975 and have put over 110,000 miles on it. I've used the unleaded regular for the last 12 years or so.

I have had three major incidents with the car:
A thrust washer broke in the transaxle - I rebuilt it.
The spider gears failed in the differential - I replaced the unit.
A valve adjusting screw broke causing some bent valves - I replaced them.

I have done ALL the maintenance on the car myself.
A major tuneup - adjust carbs, adjust valves, replace points and plugs - should be good for 15 to 20,000 miles.

A most important issue to keep it running well is: Drive it often and drive it hard - that's what it was designed for.

Forget the 20 minute warmups - run it at fast idle for around 30 seconds with the clutch out and the gearbox in neutral and then drive it. Gently at first then more agressively as it warms up.

When the fluids are right - temperature gauges pointing straight up, let it loose and you'll really feel the magic.

Check the oil when HOT, immediately after shutdown. Keep it at the top mark.

Many of the parts you need for the car are available form non-Ferrari sources - Fram, Baldwin, NGK, Kendall, Bosch, Timken, etc.

I've replaced a few bearings and nearly every one is available from regular bearing supply houses.

Regarding the fuel, although I've been using regular (the stated C/R for the GTC is 8.8:1), I will try some premium to see if it runs any better.

GTC - GREAT TOURING CAR!!! Go out and buy one!!!

Bob Zambelli

 

This is probably redundant, so apologies to those that know this. Remember that the octane shown on US pumps is Research Octane + Motor Octane, divided by two. It is approximately 4 points below Research octane that is used in Europe and places other than public US pumps. Good US pump gas with lead was about 100 octane, and the best today is usually 94 pump number +4 = about 98 Research octane. We are the only country that uses this idiot blend of octane numbers.

Regards,

Jim Walker

 

Mr. Walker is right on the money. He and headlight guru Dan Stern have contributed mucho tech on the usenet over the years. You cannot compare the Euro octane numbers (RON) to the American numbers as he stated because ours are MON+RON/2 or AKI. For those that want to learn more, there is a book by Jeff Hartman "High-Perfomance Automotive Fuels and Fluids" from 1996. It is somewhat dated but a good primer. You can also look for that gasoline FAQ on google. I haven't read it in a while and don't know who maintains it, but it is very thorough.

 

I run 93 octane and add 100LL avgas occasionally. The car runs nicely, no pinging through the full RPM range. Since I don't have platinum plugs or a cat, the lead can only help. When US gas prices were low, Avgas was 100% markup over super, now only 25%.

Regards,

Art S.