1991 348 Delco alternator Right now I am half-way through the fix, thanks to the step by step instructions http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142329 and the other invaluable posts which lead to the diagnosis: bad alternator bearing. I am having the rebuild done here in Phoenix at Turbo & Electric: one day turn around and they quoted $85 - $125. Have a couple of quick questions: 1) the removal seemed much more difficult than described in ernie's post (above)- I had to remove the shift cable support bracket to get the alternator bolt clear (bolt is 5 1/2 inches long) Does that sound common? 2) how freely should the tensioner spin? It seems to move okay but it does not "free spin" (ie. is not like a skateboard wheel) Is the tensioner bearing something you would just automatically replace with a rebuild project? Thanks again for all the support here in the forum.
They are a great place! They were trying to find an OEM Nippondenso regulator for me for my 348's Nippondenso alternator. I gave up after waiting 4 months, though, after Nippon never sent it to them. I used the regulator mentioned in Ernie's thread My Nippondenso fit real tight between the brackets, even with the subframe out. To completely remove the bolt, I also had to remove the shifter support. But I could move the bolt out far enough to clear the alternator. Again... I don't have the Delco... many people upgraded to the Nippondenso. I think there even was a Ferrari upgrade on that. Not sure how that worked, though. I even think my car used to have the Delco and was upgraded. Mine didn't free spin. I feel the tensioner on mine is easy enough to remove with the engine in, if I have to, that I just plan to replace it if it starts making noise. Otherwise, I'll just keep going with it. That should be a pretty easy job if it starts failing. Please post details of how T&E does with yours.
You are right, with a Delco Remy it is slightly more involved - you do have to undo and remove the shifter cable support before the bolt will come right out - so that is normal. From memory the heatshield bolt needs a little contorsioning to get to as well. It should all be easy wrenching though so long as you drop the shift cable mount off. Again from memory there is 'drag' in the tensioner pulley and they don't spin like a skateboard wheel - they are a sealed bearing so the seal has a little 'drag'. So far everything you are doing sounds right to me....
Yes, you must remove the shifter cable bracket for the Delco alternator removal. The other caveat is that you must loosen the tensioner pulley set bolt (that goes through the center of the tensioner pulley) before you loosen the tensioner with the bolt that is easyier to get to. Otherwise you will crack the tensioner bracket. I don't recall how easy the tensioner spins, but you can take it out and have a machine shop look at it pretty easily. I had my alternator rebuilt for $85, and Mike Fankhanel's cost $120 to rebuild (it needed more parts & time), so your prices seem right in line! I did mine last April IIRC, and have not had any issues since then. BT
You can refer to my thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=209396&page=3 on how to crack a tensioner bracket on a F355. I cracked mine trying to change the tensioner bearing which froze up.
OK, got the alternator back in, fired her up and so far so good. Went for a half hour cruise, seems to be charging, no trouble lamps. Not sure how tight the belt needs to be, but it is not squealing (is there a correct torque amt?) As far as the T&E rebuilt unit, it looks like new - I mean it really doesn't look like the one I handed them yesterday... Maybe I ended up with a swap? Anyways, $95 bucks and some time under the car and we are back in business. Couldn't have done it without all the support here - and the alternative was a flatbed tow to the shop. Thanks again guys. PS: new the Phoenix area (we are in Goodyear), what is the best way to get cc'd on any area events/get-togethers etc?
Great Sean!! They must have really cleaned up your alternator. The Overhaul Manual does have specs on A/C and Alternator belt tension, as I recall, but I'm sure the spec is using a Staeger tensionometer, which is expensive and nobody has. So I would just install it tight enough so it doesn't squeal, but not much tighter to avoid A/C compressor or Alternator bearing wear. I'm not experienced enough to do it too well by feel, so just initially tightened mine to where I thought they wouldn't squeal. I still am reinstalling my subframe back in the car, but when I first drive it, if it's not squealing, I may loosen it up a little more. I think the Alternator is probably more critical, since I wouldn't want the back of the belt slipping too much on the tensioner, and slicken/overheat the belt up. Guess I'm rambling some here. As far as local events, the 2 regular ones are last Sat of each month SECC Scottsdale Exotic Car Club meet, and the first Sat of each month Gainey Ranch meet. Check out the following link to the Az & SW Forum http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=43 to keep an eye out for confirmation posts the week prior to each of these events... occasional date changes or cancellations. Also check out the "Come Say Hi" thread that just started, which would help you to ID a few folks. Hope to see you and your car!! (and my car too!! )
