I've tried to remove the alternator, but with no luck the reason is because I cant lift the car high enough to get a good working space, my jack are apparently too small. but I did managed to take some pics under there, and it was not a pretty sight, the ALT.was pretty much coverd in oil/grease, and the green connector had lots of white "goof" on it. I sprayed the connector with electro spray, but I dont know if that would help, I cant really do anything for the moment, I need to get the car on a pit or a lift....and my friend do have a pit in his garage. It's an Nipponsenson ALT btw Thanx Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Oh man that is a lot of oil in there. I had the same issue and it is definately the alternator which is full of oil. Take the alternator out and before you pull it apart get it bench tested. If it fails change the regulator and bushes then bench test it again. Once it works put it back in for happy driving. But really by the photos it is definately the alternator. You also have to fix that leak or else it will leak into the alternator again, It might be a main oil line as was the case with my car. Check around there and you may be able to see. I agree with Ernie. It took me about 2 hours to do it but now I reckon 30 minutes or so I can take it out. Good luck
I agree, that's one soaked alternator. I'd say take it out, clean it good, and make up some kind of oil shield to get you by until the engine out major.
In case that you´re planning to buy an new rectifier I recently ordered the "Regitar RN-10" and found that the outer diameter is a little bit too large. This will cause that the "plus" plate as well as the screws for the stator-connection will come in touch with the cover of the alternator, in other words: short-circuit ! I´m a little bit confused about this, because the only difference between the recommended RN-02 and the RN-10 seems to be the size of the "plus" bolt (6 / 8 mm). Regards, Georg
Thank you guys for your inputs, I really appreciate it. IF I ever get this sucker out, then I'm gonna deliver it at a local ALT work shop, those guys are really good to fix ALT's - so, I'm gonna pay a few bucks extra and be sure the job is done properly. Right now I'm waiting for my naighbour to come home, I need to borrow his jack, which is bigger than mine I can see a slight difference in Ernies ALT and mine can anyone tell me if this is just a connector???? (green circle) if so...can I just pull it out??? Thanx again chaps! Image Unavailable, Please Login
OK, after I lifted the car "sky high" I managed to get more working space, and about 40 min l8r, the sucker came out Sending it off for service tomorrow, and I HOOOOPE they'll call me up and tell me they've found a problem with it There's only one thing that sturbes my mind, what is this white goof stuff inside of the regulator??????????????? Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
White stuff is dielectric grease. It hardens with use, resembling silicone adhesive. You can pick it out with a dental instrument.
Possibly, but dielectric grease is a very bad thing for electrical connections. "Dielectric" means "does not conduct electricity." It's often a good substance for locking out moisture (such as on the ceramic of spark plugs), but care has to be made to keep it away from conductive metal surfaces. Another possibility is that instead of dielectric grease, that it is heat-sink compound...which is common on high voltage or high current solid state components, especially devices with cooling fans or metallic heat sinks.
Ok...so you recommened to have a clean Regulator...is that it?? It will probably be clean when it return for service, but I still have some "goof" left in the green connector. Interesting "Spark Plug" thread btw!
Put Stabilant 22a onto the metal conducting surfaces...and use dielectric grease on the **plastic** outer plugs to keep moisture away from the inner metal conducting surfaces. Keep water away from metal, and keep dielectric grease away from metal.
Thanx for the tip ND But is this Stabilant 22a a MUST???...or is it just for..."just in case" I dont know what equals to Stabilant 22a in Norwegian, do you have a link so I can see the product...and maybe find something like it over here.
Yeah I'm confused too?????? Did you take any pictures of the RN02 & RN10 side by side to compare them and see what the differences are?
The specifications of RN-02 and RN-10 are the same, except the bolt for the plus cable. So if the RN-02 fits the RN-10 should also, but it doesn´t. However, I have only the RN-10 and the OEM part (Transpo ?) on hand to compare, no RN-02. Tomorrow I will take some pictures for a better explanation of the problem. Regards, Georg
That's where I don't get it???? The standard bolt coming out of the Transpo is 8mm, so the RN10 should work. I have the RN02 in my alternator and you can definitely tell that the 6mm bolt is smaller than the 8mm found on the standard Transpo. You can even see the difference in the pictures I posted on page #2. Other than that the dimensions look the same. Of course there are differences in the way it was built but I had no problem fitting the Regitar in my alternator. If the only thing they change in the RN10 is the bolt size from a 6mm to a 8mm I don't see why it wouldn't fit, as it should have the same housing. So that's why Im curious to see the RN02 next to the RN10. Maybe they made a change to the RN10 housing????
Fix the oil leak as well. Your alternator will die again over time. I can tell you that you will need a new regulator, bushes and rectifier as all the oil has causewd the damage. So you better start looking at the oil leak.
here are some pics to describe the problem with the RN-10: the 1st pic shows the rectifier and it´s box with the reference "INR736" printed, the next one shows the old OEM rectifier (4 of 8 diodes blown...) in comparision to the RN-10. Picture 3 and 4 shows the rectifiers mounted on the alternator, you can already see that the outer diameter of the RN-10 is a little bit more than the OEM. Picture 5 shows the upside of the cover, I mounted the rectifier with 2 screws to the cover to verify the clearance. Pictures 6 and 7 shows the inside of the cover with the RN-10 and the OEM mounted. As you can see there is no clearance between the outer plate of the RN-10 and the cover. This outer plate is connected to the plus bolt, so only the grey color is between ground and batterie plus. The 4 screws for the connections from the stator to the rectifier will touch the cover also. So maybe the RN-02 and the RN-10 have different dimensions or I got a miss production ? Or is there something wrong with my alternator-cover ? Regards, Georg Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well how about that?!?! You are totally correct! The RN-10 IS wider. Thanks for clearing that up George. So I guess we are gonna have to stick with the RN-02 then, and push out the 6mm post and replace it with the 8mm. Or you can do as I did and just live with the 6mm on the RN-02.
Oh great. Conflicting information. So did you notice if your rectifier was large as George has shown? Or did you just put it in and left it be? The box that George has shown indicates that it was made in China. I'm wondering if that is why there is a difference? Maybe the rectifiers we bought weren't made in China, and that is why our fit? Wait, no that can't be it because George's RN-02 fit but not the RN-10? I think I'm gonna have to give the supplier a call to find out what the deal is.
Erni, Kudos for putting such a fine thread with great information together, Thank You. I can verify the RN-10 will fit into a 355 Alternator without shoe horning it in there, the back cover will also fit without deforming it. The size differences do not seem to pose a problem. The most difficult part of this job is removing the belt, on a 355; the front tensioner pulley nut and washer need to be removed so the tensioner bearing can be slid forward against the firewall in order to drop the belt in-between the tensioner and engine. This will allow enough belt slop to slip the belt off the alternator pulley. The top alternator mounting bolt (at least on my car) was torqued to probably 150 ft lbs, and required a ½ breaker bar, swivel and a couple of extensions to loosen. Time will tell if this is an improvement or not, but thanks for the great information. Ps; the construction of the new RN-10 is copper; the OE is steel, cooling the diodes will happen at a faster rate on the new part, improving the longevity.
