You can either take the part list to an alternator shop and have them order up the stuff. Or. You can buy the stuff needed online from the guys listed earlier in the thread, which I think is the cheapest route.
FOR UK GUYS TRYING TO FIND THE PARTS TO DO THIS I've found the independent distributor in uk now a sole trader having been laid off by company not interested in selling these bits.has them all in stock in back of his van. i just bought 4 sets for me and mates racing 355 challenges and just used one to rebuild recently clapped out alternator now humming! just ring 07973 540449, delivers free in south east and will post national and you need regulator RN-10 and rectifier VRH-2005_4A (last 3 digits may be superceded by new version but dont worry he'll get the right bits for). £35 and you can DIY it, not hard. also does coils for peanuts REGULATOR MOBILETRON/REGITAR RN-10 RECTIFIER MOBILETRON/REGITAR VR-H-2005-4A IGNITION COIL MOBILETRON REGITAR C-37 coils fit all 348/355 alternator parts for nippondenso alternators also 348/355
Just a little update for those of you that have the earlier cars ('89) running the AC Delco alternators, and are looking for an inexpensive replacement. Brotherhood member 3forty8 found this little gem for $80. It's made by a company named World Power Systems. The model number for the alternator is 20-182-11-1. Image Unavailable, Please Login
And here is the link were you can by the Delco replacement alternator. Again credit for the find goes to 3forty8. http://search.waiglobal.com/partsearch/partnum.aspx?part=7973N Here is some more info on the WPS replacement alternator taken from the link. Delco CS130 Series 100-105 Amp/12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Pulley Used on: (1992-90) Dodge Monaco, Eagle Premier 3.0L (1989-88) Eagle Medallion 3.0L Replaces Delco 1101266, 1101267, 1102644 And a couple of pics of the unit. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just to clarify - that link is mainly for info/spec purposes as the eStore contained on that site is for distributors. So you would still need to go to your local alternator specialist to buy one. But at that price it just doesn't make sense not to have a spare! I have one as a spare, but haven't had to use it yet. What is of interest is their data sheet indicates a higher performance rectifier and regulator than stock, high temp bearings, wider bearings and high temp windings. Hopefully that means it will last a little longer than the original Delco-Remy CS-130 which was basically junk in stock form.
Just had my 348 alternator go in a burning smell, puff of smoke and rainbow of warning lights. Rebuilt locally: practically everything replaced except for the housing and connectors. $385 Cdn all in. While the removal went exceptionally well thanks to the brotherhood here, I did get stymied at two points: 1. There is a brash bushing on the lower bracket that needs to be pushed 'out' to make room for the bottom alternator bit. I've circled it red on ernie's shot. Since there is not a lot of room, I placed a flat bar over it and whacked it (the bar) with a hammer to get it to move outwards (towards the firewall) in the direction of the arrow. 2. I had loads of struggle getting the belt back on (even with the tension pulley at its shortest). Here's how I eventually succeeded. A. put belt onto small pulley; B. make sure the belt is not mounted on the tensioner, but above the bolt; C. feed the belt over the _top_ of the big pulley; D. push the belt up and onto the tensioner wheel. Many thanks to the brotherhood. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great info. But is it true or not that these Delco units can be "upgraded" to increase the output to 130-140 amps? Or is that baloney? There have been threads in the past of people getting their alternator rebuilt and the rebuilder claimed they increased the output.
I don't see why not. These guys have a kit that will up the output to 140 amps http://store.alternatorparts.com/7140-140amp-cs130-series-iceberg-finned-high-output-alternator-upgrade.aspx
I have replaced the regulator and rectifier tweo times in my nippondenso alternator both with stock parts and then again with regitar parts. checked for any and all shorts and found there to be none. However upon start-up of the car the dash light imediately goes out and car is charging around 14v-14.2v Great.right? No because within 2 minutes the dash light is back on and the b attery is no longer charging! This has happened two times! Please help me with this problem. It's making me nuts! This is my first post so I hope I did it correct. My e-mail is [email protected] anyone can respond to the e-mail address as well. I am a custom motorcycle builder so feel free to hit me with any questions Re: american-harley type-v-twin engine questions
Please check that your ground cable is connected to your engine/tranny. Also check your bullet connectors on your battery cables (underneath your black air filter box). Likewise, verify that you have good connections on the battery itself for positive and ground terminals.
I'd be checking the battery... it may have a bad cell or two.... See if the same thing happens with a different battery. Mike
This is an excellent thread that has enabled me to remove and strip down my alternator. I contacted Holcombe Direct to order the new regulator and rectifier to see if they would mail it to the UK. All I can say is what a terrible company they are. Thoroughly disgusted by their attitude and attrocious service. I have had 2 emails from them as follows; Email 1. Part is not available through us. Email 2. PART NOT AVAILABLE THROUGH US. These were the only words in the emails. No 'dear sir', or 'thanks for your enquiry'. The frustrating thing is that the parts I am after are listed on their website. Holcombe Direct are obviously a cowboy outfit. Disgusting service. If they are this bad when trying to give them business, image how bad they must be when you have a problem with a part they have supplied to you! Do not even think about giving them your business!!!
Well that sucks. Sorry to here about your problems, and it's the first time I heard of anyone having a problem ordering the parts. Why not try having a local alternator shop in the UK order the parts for you? That's what I did. It cost me a bit more, but I did get the parts needed.
That's what I have done. Cost a huge amount more but still a heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new alternator!
Not in the UK. I have sourced a Nippondenso unit for under $600 - should anyone in the US need one. That is model reference 101211-5070.
Thank goodness for that! Ferrari parts are expensive but the suggestion that it might cost $5k for an alternator really shook me!
Just rebuild it with the better parts we have listed in this thread for $50-$100, and be done with it. I'm on year 4 this month with my rebuilt alternator and it's still going strong.
Ernie: Many thanks for the tutorial...I'm sure I'll to this at some point. Just curious, though, I had the same battery light issue at high RPM, High-load conditions (100 degree ambient, AC on and highly illegal highway speeds last summer) and I was tipped that the real easy first-step fix was to ground strap the alt housing to the frame. This from our good friend in Denver. Dead easy job, and on my 89 Mondial, there even a spare bolt on the frame that looks like it was made to accept this ground. Problem was solved utterly for $10 and 10 minutes work. Wonder if anyone else has tried this? Won't solve a dying alt, for sure, but it sure solved the phantom battery light issue for me. Nice work and appreciated. c
Thanks Ernie and everyone for a great thread. developed typical symptoms with my new-to-me 93 Mondial T (valeo) yesterday, limed home, went out and bought a low clearance floor jack, and out she came (a little more difficult that the descriptions here, valeo unit was in the way). i was surprised that my 93 had the delco unit (actually, a Napa #213-4553). i am sending it for bench testing tomorrow morning and will probably replace with one referenced here. thanks again to eveyone who contributed! best regards db
