Absolutly yes, the shifter is spring loaded and returns to center regardless of shift cable position. Sounds to me that you have a shifter adjustment issue. Also take note that the shifter forks could be out of adjustment as well. BTW...the split in that T/O Bearing seal is normal. that is a guide ring only to assist centering of the bearing assembly. The oil you are using is ok, the Shell gearbox oil is adaquate as well as I have not any issues with using it. the reason I say this is that the oil is not the reason for the bad shifting. Have your mechanic check the clutch, bleed the system well, and check the shifter adjustment. If you do not know how to check, e-mail me and I will explain. best regards, Jim
Yes..that second seal that looks split is not split..that is how they are. A little late to the party on this..but if you were not leaking any clutch fluid from the slave..I would not have pulled it off. But now that it is off, do not reinstall with out new seals as it will leak. The 4 blue seals in that slave assembly are a REAL bugger to put in without damaging them. When ever I do this re-seal on the updated bearing (which is rare for them to have a seal leak, normaly they just blow the side right out of them) I order 2 sets just in case a ruin one of the seals going in. Pay attention to the seals and how they are placed in the slave BEFORE you remove them!! They are directional. If you put them in the wrong way it will not seal or will leaqk soon after!! I have no idea why Ferrari went to this "updated" bearing. To me it is a poorly made part. The one you have is alumminun unit. The older ones were a cast unit..very heay duty. They did have a tendancy to leak from the sealing rings, but the reseal kit is dirt cheap, and the slave cast NEVER blows out like the new alumminum ones do.
A little late is right!! OK, got some stuff I'll be getting so I'll post when everything is here. I need to re-read the cable adjustment threads this weekend as well. Any thoughts on a good bleeder set-up? Pep-boys, Autozone? It's certainly a love/hate relationship with these cars... Hate it when things go wrong but love to work on it..
Hey guys, Ernie's gearbox is about 1-2 working days from completion at Ernie's speed. That means it could happen in the next week or two. Do you guys want to get together and give Ernie's gearbox a bon voyage party? It has been in my garage for so long I'm going to kinda of miss it. I think I'll hang a picture of it with a caption "Here's were Ernie's gearbox used to stay".
Well, at least you didn't charge him rent! ...hey, what caused you to yank all of your door wiring out of your 348??
as i gutted the car I left wires behind and jusr removed things like A/C etc... So 1 day at the track I had an electrical fire in a circuit that ferrari does not fuse. It burnt some wires but my safety cutoff switch saved the rest of the wires and car. So for the sake of being really safe I gutted out all non-esential wires by carefully cutting and reading the wiring diagram very carefully. I figure I dumpped out about 20 lbs of wire. It was amazing. Now everything goes through a kill switch right at the battery which eliminates a source of fire which is good in racing. There is zero non-essential stuff left. I cut wire all the way to the fusebox. My loom is about 1/10th the size it was stock. I have even gutted out the ignition switch so I have a main power, ignition on switch and a cool red button to start the car. That oem switch is very heavy. I just got some new corner weight scales so I'll report what I got the car down to in weight. I hope for good numbers. I am probably pretty light as I can beat 355's and some 360's and even a poorly driven 430c once all with nothing more than a stiff cage and stock motor. I considered and still may use one of I forget who's dash systems and cut out even more wire. Most of the wires left are for fuel guage etc... and some stuff I am not sure I should cut that runs from engine to ecu to fusebox. If I wanted to get brave or spend more time I could get rid of the oem fusebox and save another 5-7lbs but it would take me a long time to figure out the electronics. Ferrari had all kinds of stupid stuff in there like wiper switches find ground through motors etc... It is a real ghost of lucas in there. After diving into the wiring I am surprised all these cars don't just burn up in your garage. It not just 348's they all suck.
I'm not into forensic fire issues but it seems that the large main headlight wire somewhere chaffed along its length and burned as it shorted to ground. It had the most burn on the longest length of wire but not on either end somewhere in the middle. There was much collateral wire melt so it was dificult. The headlight wire goes from the front main power connection before the fusebox and bypasses it. Then it runs to toward the front fusebox. It is big and brown perhaps 6 guage 4mm's? and does not but should have a fuseable link. Of course this wire is bundled in the main wiring loom so I had a choice of rewire to keep stock or just tear wires out. I chose the latter as weight is speed in racing. I wish you guys could drive my 348 it feels like no other and the nimbleness is amazing when the mass comes down. Also, the 348 reliability goes way up as you delete systems. With all that parasitic wire gone I expect great things for the future.
Uh, oh! I better have a talk with my 4 year old. She weighs about 40 pounds, and her car seat another 15...
NEED HELP!!! This Slave/bearing will not go back on!! Is there a trick to it? I get all the way to the last blue seal and dam if it just won't pop over it! I'm afraid to smack it too hard with a hammer. It's like it has a little extra lip there to keep it tight.
Lube seals with brake fluid but make sure you have the seal direction correct first. Very carefully make sure your seal is 90 degrees to the shaft. The fit is not unlike a bearing on a shaft. Then smack it quick with a rubber mallet and it should go right down.
Well I'll be a fatbillybobs uncle!!! I'd had the first big seal backwards! Took my time pulling it back out and that sucker slid on like butter (almost). Got the clutch back today. Now has a new disc and "re-klubered", etc. etc. Old grease was black/gray so there was a little leak or something going on there. The old disc was 90% gone though! Everything is back on and I just need to bleed it real good. Back in a few.
Does not matter just stick with DOT type. Personally I love simple valvoline synthetic. I use this as a track fluid with zero problems. I bleed every track day so my fluid is always top notch. But if you bleed less some like ATE blue and gold. They fill with one and then alternate to the other until they see the next color so they know they got good fluid. Bleed with the ass end of the car about 1.5 ft in the air. You will understand why if you try it level to the ground later.
Remember my wise crack a few posts back? Did you get a new clutch disc or discs? Did the discs get resurfaced instead?
Yep, new disc installed. Had the option of re-surfacing but it was kinda far gone so just got a new one instead. Got it bled and all put back together today. TONS difference in the shifting. Absolutely no problem in 1st or 2nd when cold at all. I'm still going to take a look at the shifter cables also. Learned alot and it was definatley worth the extra effort to do it right!!!! Thanks for everyones help also!
