348 chip tuning

I wouldn't recommon a chiptuning for an stock N/A car to an customer. If you change at least the cams then it is nessacery to remap the car. If you do that watch that the tuner is good and knows what he is doing. At least he should install some datalogging devices like exhaust temperature, knock count and AFR Display to the car and use an online device to the ecu that he can change the settings in realtime. Without any of that basic equipment it isn't a good idea to setup a car. If you go for something stronger then only cams with much more hp then stock it would be also good to install pressure sensors to the cylinder to messure the pressure during the combustion also you can verify knock better trough this then looking through an normal piezo knocksensor.
For a tuning what i would do at first

1. change the cats to 100 cpsi metal racing cats or straight pipes
2. change the cams
3. head modifing ports bigger, valves, a bit more CR, nicer combustion chamber
4. change the inlet manifold to individuel throttles on each cylinder also with much bigger sizes then stock and a high "funnel shape"
if you want to go high end use "rollers" (dont know the english word for that) not normal butterfly throttle valves ... the rollers when on full throttle are gone complete out of the inletpipe that there is no restriction. There are 2 round rolls with an tunnel in it when on full throttle the tunnel on both rolls is the same shape and size as the inlet pipe.
5. bigger AFMs
6. bigger pipes on the airfilterbox also, the box itself isn't bad but could be bigger in size of the AFMs
7. remap the ecu to the new specs.
(8. if you go for much more hp and aggressive cams also change the valvesprings)


If you only want a bit for cheap thats maybe an overkill but normaly we don't do things by half-measures ....
_____________________________
Samy

 

i have an extra set of TAP chips for sale at half of new price. 250 first come.
fits the later years 2.7 motronics
i have a set installed in my car , and it performs well , no significant difference at idle, but mid and high rpms are adjusted , been running them since last year no probs. i did have a prob with a dead spark plug this spring ,thought it was the chip, swapped it out with a new set, but later i found out it was just a dead plug , so i have an extra.

 

Addon for my post,
i forgot to mention why i wouldn't use an chip for an n/a car without changes. On the N/A car you cannot change the airflow with the electonic like on a turbocharger. So you are limited on the fuel and on the ignition. The fuel has no real gain on performance you can get it a bit leaner and some hp because of the more power potential on a leaner fuel arround 0,9 - 0,95 lambda. But that hurts the engine because of the missing cooling effect of the more fuel. So you're left on only the ignition. On a normal setup car with an knock sensor the factory settings are near on the maximum. A bit is left because of the safty if pour fuel is used. So you can setup the engine for a higher grate of fuel if the car is for 95 roz mapped you can map it for 100 roz and must drive till then only 100 roz. But that gives you only a few hp normaly not realy worth the money. Also there are many "chiptuner" chips wich are made home on the pc from the "professionals" who never seen an engine in real wich are made like more is better everywhere a bit higher without any sense and the rev limiter higher ready is the performance chip. But if you get something wich is realy good mapped on a car for cheap its ok.
____________________________________
Samy