348 Climate Control Unit Repaired | Page 2 | FerrariChat

348 Climate Control Unit Repaired

Discussion in '348/355' started by 348USA, May 10, 2016.

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  1. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    Dec 22, 2011
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    Miroljub Stojanovic
    Perhaps you should reflow the resistor solders.
     
  2. David Baldwin

    David Baldwin Rookie

    May 5, 2019
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    Kent, United Kingdom
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    David Baldwin
    Yes our service engineer has just handed the unit back to me, He has re soldered the resistor to the board.
     
  3. StewartE

    StewartE Rookie

    Jan 2, 2024
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    Everitt
    AUSTRALIA - Has anyone got a recommendation to have a 1990 348 climate control module refurbished. I saw this link and was wondering if I had a more local option?
    link https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-climate-control-unit-repaired.521703/

    Back ground:
    AC has had an E8 error from time to time. All works well when working. This (video link below) is new and a one off. Pump looks fine, condenser recently replaced, connections visually checked and cleaned. I am stumped? After restarting everything clears and works for a while.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/rM61xZJwTbhdkSqp9
     
  4. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Feb 20, 2015
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    I wonder if you're getting enough power to the control panel. There have been numerous causes of the E8 error. Someone fixed it by replacing the "hidden" fuse in the forward luggage compartment which is notorious for melting. It can partially melt, leading to intermittent issues. Same for the power relays.

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  5. StewartE

    StewartE Rookie

    Jan 2, 2024
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    Everitt

    Attached Files:

  6. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    Unrelated. A fuse is only put here when testing the Teves ABS system.
     
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  7. StewartE

    StewartE Rookie

    Jan 2, 2024
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    Everitt
    August 24 Update for anyone following:
    Okay here is the update from combo of workshop and my findings:

    The pump itself seems to be fine. We can actuate it and confirm it runs via the unit, or by supplying it power. It’s not making any abnormal noises, the only time it “fails” or cuts out, is when the unit stops sending it the signal to run.

    We removed the a/c control panel. The way this unit is setup is multiple boards, which are sort of sandwiched together. It looks like someone in the past has applied some silicone to try and hold them together more effectively, however it seems to be a pretty common issue on these units after a bit of research.

    Accessing the front compartment where the pump is, we have discovered a bit of aftermarket wiring, and also a disconnected stepper motor, we believe it is for outside/ inside recirculation.

    The aftermarket wiring included an earth wire, which checking we found was too small gauge for the size of the connector that it was crimped to, it pulled straight out with a small tug. Additionally the eyelet side that was bolted to a “chassis earth” was actually a pretty thin piece of metal, which was painted over, so this was not an effective earth point. We have re-crimped new connectors onto it, found a better earth point, and fixed that.

    Some more of the aftermarket wiring appeared to be a main power supply for the a/c unit itself, which had a fuse added into it, the fuse and connectors here are quite burnt, however the fuse is not blown, and the resistance across it is within an appropriate specification.

    Reconnecting the stepper motor we have found that the motor works, however we believe the internal gears for it are stripped, as it turns but nothing changes. I don’t believe this is the cause of your E8 warning, as this stepper motor is not related to that error, however it could be something worth fixing.

    We believe that the a/c control panel is the fault here, when the car is not faulting you can tap the side of the trim and get it to fault, additionally; it would seem that driving the car, the fault comes and goes. It is possible that the sandwiching of the boards is a bit loose, but it is also possible there is a failed capacitor in the board for the control side of the water pump.

    I am going to get this unit reconditioned.
    In addition to this, will address some of this aftermarket wiring. It’s obviously been added in for a reason, perhaps to address a different problem with the original wiring, and while it is testing okay, burnt connectors and fuses is never a good sign. It could be as simple as replacing some of the wiring with a higher gauge wire, and cleaning up a few connections.
     
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  8. Qavion

    Qavion F1 World Champ
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    #33 Qavion, Aug 23, 2024
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2024
    A common fault, but it's not a "stepper" motor (even if the manual says it is). FChatters have throroughly dissected the actuators on these cars. But what part is turning? The output drive? If that is turning strongly, it could be the plastic boss in the flap which has broken. That's common, too. Aftermarket brass bosses are available.

    https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/348-355-ac-flap-actuator-rod.585844/#post-146231757


    Thanks for the update. Sounds like a lot of good ol' Aussie improvisation :p
     
  9. m.stojanovic

    m.stojanovic F1 Rookie
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    If you refer to this fuse:
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    This is actually a factory setup. The picture shows a larger ("Maxi") 30A fuse that I have installed. The original fuse in this location is a standard (smaller) 30A fuse, same type as the fuses in the fuse boxes. The smaller size of this fuse is not a problem but the size of its spade pins is. Due to corrosion over time, the fuse contacts develop some resistance which causes them to overheat and melt the plastic surrounding them. The same happens to the pins in the white connector to the heater blower relay, seen just above the fuse. The solution is installing a larger size 30A fuse and periodically checking and cleaning the relay pins and sockets. Alternatively, the white relay connector block could be replaced by individual spade female connectors (which provide much higher pressure onto the relay spades than the connectors inside the block).
     

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