Hi guys, Got a bit of a dilema, the past couple of journeys I've been on this noise has occurred from cold when starting and when stopping. Today I took her out for a spin, this noise, which sounds like a dry bearing, happened immediately was so much louder than usual It seems to disappear at about 2000 rpm, no difference if the clutch is in or out, and unaffected by temperature... it was just as harsh when hot I recorded a video clip which I've stuck here if it helps!! I can't pinpoint exactly where it's coming from either. http://www.fq101.co.uk/random/rs/348/movie.wmv
I've just had another listen... is there anything at the front of the engine which might cause this noise? it's almost like it's coming from the front of the engine rather than the gearbox as I thought before
Get a long 2ft screwdriver and put the blade on the front of the valve cover and your ear on the handle. Do the same thing on the block just aft of the oil filter housing and compare volume of the rattle. If the volume is louder on the aft end then compare the block noise with the spot directly between the inlet and outlet pipe of the throwoutbearing on top of the gearbox. if the between the pipe noise is louder then compare that volume to placing the blade on the pumpkin inserting the blade between the muffler and the rear grill. Once you narrow the noise volume then you can listen deeper. Report back hear. could be the dreaded T/O bearing and or shaft rattle and or clutch shaft gear rattle
Man, that sounds nasty! Something is certainly rattling around in there. I would also NOT drive your car anymore until you sort the problem out mate. I would try what FBB suggested to try and pin point the location of the noise 1st. If you cannot, then I would start by checking out the alternator adjuster pulley bearing 1st. It may have collapsed. If that is ok, then I would look at the clutch area. It is easy to remove the clutch pumpkin to have a look to see whats going on in there. If that area is fine, then I would suspect it is something behind those cam covers. You will probably have to drop the engine out to dive into that area. But I would try everything else 1st, before it comes to having the engine out man. I cant hear it properly, as my computer speakers are not the best, but it does sound like a nasty rattle in there.
Cheers guys, The noise is actually a close match in volume too to that on the video so it is very loud. I've had the tensioner suggested to me a couple of times too, so I might start to saving the pennies (just bought a house too ) I will try to pin-point the noise first, and infact one oof my winter jobs was a flywheel regrease as I've got hot start issues. So after my trip to the US next week, I'll get the back of the car off and have a real snoop around. It's just aswell the weather here in the UK is rubbish at the moment, as I don't have much inclination to drive it!!. Thanks for the suggestinos, I'll keep you posted on my progress
Okay guys, I'm pretty sure it's not a clutch gearbox rattle now. I've had a suggestion that it might be down to a camshaft design problem on early engines, causing the valves to hit the pistons.... quoted £3k + vat to fix. The other suggestion was the oil chain tensioner. I was linked to this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198659 This chap seems to have listed a very similar noise here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=197287 So, I've decided I'm going to drop the engine! I'm going to drop the engine and start up a general clean up on it too. It's a real shame I paid to have the cambelts done only 2000 miles (4 months) ago! otherwise I could have saved a fortune. Nevertheless, I'm always up for a challenge, so I'm going to start next weekend. All we have is jacks and axle stands, so it's going to be an interesting time! Will keep you all updated on my progress!!
Sorry about the slow reply, I've only just got round to looking at the car this weekend. I thought first things first.. whip the sump off and look at the oil chain tensioner. Well, after 2.5 days of effing and blinding I got the sump off today, and rather depressingly the tensioner is intact and all in place. Which leaves me with the valve train issue or cambelt tensioner, or 'something else'. Anyone got any more ideas??!! please??!!! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is the list of possibilities off the top of my head. Front of the engine bay: Tensioner bearing for the alternator A/C compressor Alternator Cam belt tensioner and idler bearing Water pump bearing Oil pump tensioner (You've already ruled that out) Rear of the engine bay: Throw out bearing Main shaft bearing on oil pump side of the gear box Bearing on the back side of the clutch bell housing (aka the pumpkin) Bearing/s on the axle flange housing/s
Thanks for the suggestions, however I made a bit of an alarming discovery tonight. I've got a couple of things to check up on tomorrow morning, but I'll post up tomorrow once I've checked out some of my facts.
Okay guys, just to keep you up to date... I was looking for a way to turn the engine whilst it was in bits to see if I could replicate the noise. Unfortunatley I left the car in neutral when I disconnected the gear linkages DOH, so my next thought was to manually crank the car by hand. I crawled under the car again and felt up to gauge the size of the crankshaft pulley bolt, and it was loose!! Not finger tight, but there was actually a 3-4mm gap where this bolt had wound itself out! This bolt should be tightened to 196Nm according to my workshop manual, so really should never ever come undone under normal circumstances. If you recall, I said I had my cambelts done less than 2000 miles ago (about 4 months), and this bolt does indeed have to be removed for this process. It's pretty black and white to me that this wasn't tightened up properly at the service. To ad insult to injury I experienced problems through my service anyway when it was clear that none of the filters had been changed, the engine hadn't been cleaned down, and most of the trim in the bonnet was loose and lying on the floor. anyway I digress... I've ordered a new bolt, but now I need to tighten it up myself. SO my next plan of action is to drop the fuel tank down, and raise the engine UP about 2-3 inches which will allow me to get an impact socket onto it so I can get the correct torque applied. I'll keep you updated as to how I get on!
MAN!! CRAZY!! Why dont you call the tools that did your cam belts, tell them what happened and tell them to FIX the bloody thing! Why should you pay for the new bolt and your time to fix it?? They obviously didnt torque the bolt correctly. If they do not come to the party and fix their f*ck up, please tell me who the workshop is so I can tell everyone on Fchat what kind of POOR workmanship they do at their workshop and to avoid going there at all costs.
I would not do your plan. You are thinking about fixing the "known" problem. It is obvious from your post that the major service is suspect. So I would just drop the motor on the subassembly and take the belts off and inspect the water pump then check the valves then degree the cams and put everything back together properly. Doing this right will pay you dividends in a good long lasting motor that you can drive the crap out of and just enjoy. We can talk you through the process or there are several good pros on Fchat who can do the job right for you.
+1 If the shop did a half assed job tightening down the crank bolt, what else did they goof up???? If it where me I would just drop the whole subframe. And, WOW this is scary. If I was you I would be raising hell with the shop that "did" the work!!!
Sorry for the delay guys... I ordered a new bolt (at £62 ) but I have also spoken to the garage, they took the car back on thursday to do the work FOC. I did however get a subsequent call telling me that I had a hole in one of my rads!! gah!!! hence my latest post for rad dimensions so no guides for dropping/raising the engine I'm afraid, but I thought I'd save myself the hassle and send it back!
Pick yourself up a mechanics stethoscope. They're only $20 or so and you'll have it in future. Would've led you straight to the loose pully had you had one.
