348 Clutch Installation Problem. HELP!!!

Bump...

 

Can anyone help this poor man? He's struggling with F-car withdrawl here!

 

Yeah someone will come around. I would help but I haven't done the clutch on my car yet. Sometimes people get busy and don't come on the sight. That and he did post it a 3am. Just hang tight the rest of the boy's should chime in here soon enough.

One other thing. RIGHT ON BRO!!!! Way to man up and do the work yourself.

 

Lots of the hardcore folks are in Vegas the SR. Keep that one in mind too...

 

Thanks Ernie / Daniel,

I helped John for ~2 hours the other night and nothing we tried could get the large and small teeth on the spline aligned with the clutch disks...and we tried just about everything.

We'll get 'er there, sometimes the ideas to solve these problems need a little think'n time...and a lot of beer!

 

try this:

- make sure the clamp bolts are sufficiently loose to allow the friction plates to move
- select 4th gear (obviously, don't press the clutch!!)
- apply parking brake, make sure the gearbox is 'locked-up'
- slide the first friction plate onto the output shaft splines
- simultaneously push, rotate and "jiggle" the flywheel until the second plate goes onto the splines. Do it like you mean business. Make sure the output shaft is not rotating (there will be a small amount of lash)
- tighten the clamp bolts
- high fives & beers all-round



RF.

 

Guys...I found this @ http://www.ferrariclub.com/faq/348clutch.html

Step 11: Place the clutch cover on to the tip of the pilot bearing/transmission shaft. As the cover goes on, rotate the free rotating clutch assembly until it indexes on the small splined input shaft. Use a large rubber mallet on the cover to drive the cover on, and as this is being done turn the wheels of the car to make the large splined clutch shaft rotate so as to index with the clutch plates on the clutch assembly. Drive the rest of the cover into place. This may be somewhat difficult as it needs to interference fit over the pilot bearing. A tip is to drive the cover into place enough so the longer starter motor bolts can be threaded until just hand tight to the cover, then rubber mallet the opposite side of the cover, then tighten the bolt a bit more, then rubber mallet again until the cover is flush with the transmission case.

Step 12: Place the cover nuts and tighten.

Step 13: Replace the muffler.

Step 14: Lower the car and test

 

The FCA techtip is correct I know who wrote it...;-)

The rest of what you have posted is wrong. Don't try to have loose bolts and tighten via the starter hole. This is a sure way to disaster. I have done these clutchs a zillion times and modify them for lightness using OEM parts and no grease and no flywheel guts!

Anyway, stop what you are doing and start from a clean sheet of paper.
PM/email me if you get stuff I'll talk you through it.

1) loosen the FW bolts and remove to make sure the plates haev been properly installed Ie. the right direction FW side vs engine side. You can skip this if you think International did it right. Martin is an aquaintance of mine 99% he did it right. He is a good guy and damn fast in his 360C on the track.

2) Do you have a good eye? If yes then you can do this by eye. Next with loose FW bolts eyeball right over the pilot bearing straight down the hole in the middle. The hole of each clutch plate must be absolutely concentric with the piolot bearing hole and the splines of the two discs must coincide. Car in neutral. Now remove two studs 180 degrees apart and get two more bolts that fit the two holes left they should be about 2x to 3x longer than the studs. Put the clutch on and with your hands on the FW widget it back and forth and if you have aligned things right you can feel youself hanging on the smaller splined input shaft and next the FW will stop rotating back and forth as you slide onto the large splines of the clutch shaft. You get like two clunks. Then the bellhouse will cease to slide and you will have a gap of about 1 inch. That is the piolet bearing you have to slide onto but can apply no force to get there. You can now use a flashlight and look at the clutch shaft and you can no longer see the the little dickhead of the small spline input shaft. Now place the 2 extra bolts on the stud holes and use an assortment of washers to get the right size and drive the bell house home. You need about as much force as you can muster when you hold a socket wrench with its head in the palm of your hand. In other words not much torque. It should slip right in since the piolet bearing is light friction fit. IF YOU CANNOT GET IT IN then you have a very small mismatch between the relative position of the car's input shaft with clutch shaft VS your position of the bellhouse clutch shaft splines and FW input shaft female. To remedy this you remove the clutch off the car and turn the car's clutch shaft so that the clutch shaft moves in 1/2 tooth increment left or right and try again. If not move another 1/2 in the smae direction as last time and it will slide right in. Now take the two stud you removed and just screw them in. They do not have to be tight because they will tighen fine when your nut goes on. In fact you do not need to use studs you can use all bolts they do a simple job here.

3) if you have a crappy eye then buy a clutch alignment tool from any autoparts store but you will not be able to find one with the correct spline sizes so you will still have to align the 2 clutch plates relative to each others spline position by eye.

4) If you still can eyebal PM email me and I can sent you my alignment tool to use which is an old 348 clutch shaft and is or course splined.

The ? I have is what clutch disc rebuild scheme was used? Your pic shows the old throwout bearing design that may or maynot be compatable with the latest twin discs and pressure plate? I don't know we will see. The latest T/O bearing may be the same size just different other specs. so you may be O.K.. OTOH Martin may have rebuilt your old discs and resurfaced your FW and repaced it. So what did he do?