348 clutch on its way out ?

After a spirited run through Cheshire today, I started to notice that I was not accelerating despite engines revs increasing.

My first thought is the clutch is going.

1st & 2nd OK, 3rd & 4th, engine races once hitting the 3K mark.

I plan to check this out myself - when I get a chance - so initial questions:-

Any other sources for the AP dual plate clutch on than Ferrari - or are they reasonably priced anyway.

Do I convert to a single plate clutch or is this false economy

Any other parts I should consider (input shaft seals ?) The car's history shows some problems here as someone in the past re-surfaced one of the plates only. - New Clutch @33K - resurface @37K now slipping at 39K miles

Makes me suspicious!!

Is this job really that easy - I have read the excellent threads on this matter but cannot even find where to get the bumper off.

Is the whole job just undoing bolts - as well as re-packing the flywheel for good measure.

Gentle driving now until this is checked out !!!!

Thanks for any feedback but thinking again I would not expect the plates to be worn after only 6K miles since a new one.


John

 

The 348 flywheel has some sort of fluid in it. It is there for flywheel vibration damping. When it starts leaking, it ruins the clutch plate. If you replace the clutch, check the flywheel for leaks. I don't know if the flywheel can be repaired but a new one is about $3000.

 

You can rebuild discs or exchange whole clutch pack at "fair" prices. Check archives and ask around for info on vendors.

It all depends on what you find when apart. A conversion requires more than disks and gets pricey.

Yes! replace shaft seals, check flywheel thickness and machine or replace if thin. See if flywheel needs rebuilt/repacked. It all depends on what you find when you take it apart.

With proper tools, absolutely. Jack up car, remove wheels & wheel wells, remove (4) nuts from bolts in wheel wells, remove exhaust shields and tail light covers, remove (4) larger nuts from bumper bolts through rear center frame. Disconnect (2) connectors for bumper side lights and license plate lights. Slide bumper to rear, remove. Check your parts manual - it will make sense. It takes me 30 minutes to do at home.

Basically, but don't re-pack flywheel if not needed (i.e. unless triple shaft seals have failed) Check previous threads for loads of pics.

Advise you don't drive at all until you get it fixed - gets very expensive if you wear down the flywheel from spinning a worn clutch... good luck! Shan

 

BTW...the 30 min reference refers to taking the bumper off...

 

really esay job
don't take bumper off
don't need clutch alignment tool
you must repack clutch while you are there
you must change the triple seals
keep the dual disc or convert to a single and sell me your dual disk setup cheap.
you can resurface both clutch discs for about 50 bucks usd
the triple sealing rings you get from ferrari uk as well as the grease for Flywheel
you can be at 100 bucks as a diyer and be running for many thousands of miles
you can buy a new clutch and FW for about 3000 usd but why bother if the FW, and intermediate plate and pressure plate are good.

 

Guys,

Thanks for info, I will no doubt be asking more questions when its apart.

My garage has very limited space (narrow) in that I cannot jack up the car from the side when its in there.

Once the bumper & exhaust is off, can I do this job with the wheels back on.

I ask this because Iwould strip it down outside then push it back in for the clutch job.

Thanks

 

John

as I have a large well equiped garage and live in Heswall would you like a hand doing this?

 

shanB implied the triple seals control flywheel grease leakage.

That's not correct. The triple seals control gearbox oil leaking from the input shaft...just to clarify.

 

Thanks Phil. Actually that was not what I meant to imply. What I was referring to was replacement of the triple seals to avoid gear lube leaking down the shaft and finding it's way into the FW... which can necessitate FW repacking if the leak is not caught soon enough. Correct?
Shan

 

not really...gear oil on the flywheel will cause the clutch to slip, which in turn causes it to get hot/hard spots which then cause judder, which then requires the flywheel to be Skimmed or replaced, the repacking of the grease is pretty much independant of all that lot!

 

Not really. The way the FW assembly is cut out the gearbox oil leaks past the triple seals and into the flywheel grease pack. That casues the parts in the FW to rattle . Thats just where the oil goes. It never goes on the clutch plate surfaces. Leaking throw out bearing brake fluid can wet the surfaces of the clutch disc and that causes the clutch slip not gear oil. And jkuk ther is no reason to take the bumper off and no reason to take the rear wheels off. Just take the exhaust off and the bellhouse bolts step on the clutch and the whole unit comes off. It takes about 30 minutes if you just jack the rear up for access. You could even drive the rear of the car up on ramps and do the job.

 

Andrew,

That's very kind of you. - We are close as I am in Irby.

Going by what Shan B & Billybob are saying I shall try it at home as rear access is fine, I just cannot get at both sides of the car in the garage - if it gets awkward I may take you up on your offer.

Now, if I attempted the engine out that's another matter.

Thanks again,

 

err fatbilly...the ONLY place leaking gear oil from the triple seals goes is on the clutch...it has to get through the clutch to get to the ground....where it can be seen dripping from the inspection plate.

It's easy to confuse with clutch fluid, which leaks in exactly the same place, but rubbing it between your fingers will quickly show whether it's oil or fluid.

And gear oil would have a really hard time getting IN the flywheel grease chamber, as centrifugal force is constantly trying to fling OUT anything that is in there....