348 clutch release bearing won’t go on

Trying to reinstall my clutch release bearing and the hydraulic fluid/pressure is keeping it from fully seating. I can get it a few mm on, and after some hard pushes some fluid will back out through the passages in the flange.

Opening the clutch bleed line doesn’t help, or push any fluid out.

Anyone encounter this?

 

The bearing is sprung so you have to pver come that. Open the bleeder on flangw will work or yours is blocked. You can take the flange off a clean it. The bleeder next to bellhouse must be clear. Take it off and clear it. So open the bleeder on flange to get the bearing compressed and filled 90% with fluid....make bleeding outside the bellhouse easier.

 

There is a bleeder on the flange?

I just installed the flange with new seals prior to trying to install the release bearing. While I had it off, I flushed the passages as well for good measure.

 

Did you install new slave cylinder seals? If yes, then it might be the seal preventing the cylinder to engage onto the flange "piston" (the "hydraulic pressure" might be the rubber of the seal resisting with some "springiness") if you have installed incorrect seal (the first one that engages the flange). There are two types of this seal - 139436 for early slave cylinders, and 151822 for later.

 

Thanks for all the replies.

I installed all new seals. I called Ricambi and just asked for all seals I may need; I was sent and installed 151822. The part on their site shows 144989 - superseded by 151822 (for 1989-1992).

Looking up 139436 directly, it seems that may be the part I need though.

There is no springiness when I try to push on; it stops full once the seal slips over the flange piston and pushing with full force does nothing.

 

Pictures would help.

Are you saying that you're re-installing the old style clutch release bearing?

 

Looking at pics of my "before" set-up shows that the clutch release bearing doesn't "fully seat".

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Before and after.


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Random thoughts. There are more than one flange when some cars have twin vs single clutch plate. Dont know if there is a t/o bearing size diff too. Flange has aluminum plugs peened over on top you csn open that to make sure all passages are clear. You can remove flange with o rings seal behind and make sure flange clear. You can remove exterior bleed line and bleed from top crotch of bellhouse to gearbox interface too and skip the exterior bleed hose. You can test exterior bleed hose when off the car. All of this could have been avoided if you confirmed you could get fluid out the bleeder before you started. We see probs like that all the time especially with in frequently maintained brake systems

 

Yes. I would have upgraded to the Hill bearing but the flange is on back order, and I have the “old style” flange. So, I decided to replace all seals and reinstall while replacing triple seals.

I cannot get the bearing to get on any further then the width of the seal. Needs to go on at least another inch, or so.

Although fluid doesn’t look too bad, and records show it was only in there a few years, I will check the bleed line. I cleaned the passages in the flange while it was off, so I know the flange itself is not clogged. Clutch operation was good too before disassembly. Plus, the little bit of flow out of the flange passages when I pull the bearing off after trying to get it on tells me fluid is getting through. Thanks for the advice.

 

The fluid is not coming out on the push if the lines are clogged or mismatched size to the flange. Sometimes it is easier to see what is going on by removing the flange and springs and holding it in your hand. Under those conditions your t/o bearing lubricated with brake fluid should just have the resistance of sliding seals. T/o bearing should then slide freely and alm the way home

 

I have always pounded it on with a piece of wood and hammer.