Thanks mate,i was gunna paint it black,then i was like................................um. What am i thinking?? hehe
FBB, I am always keep a very open mind on things like this, but when you have talked to 6 Ferrari technicians and one independent bolted joint specialist who all say the same thing, I have to say that I agree with them as well. I have done my bit on this subject and now after proving that the flywheel can only be in one position - what are you actualy saying the screw dose? Cheers Paul
Not an argument in my eyes - its there and were just trying to find out what it does!! Make you think though that if Ferrari Tech cant help - who can!! Believe me I have got 101 things to do rather than be on here "arguing the toss" over a screw - I just want the correct information to be on here. Hell - I had a chap phone me up with 360 wheels on his TR and his mechanic advised him to get longer bolts as he read on Ferrari chat that you could use the original TR bolts ( which are way too short) - he was running on 4mm of thread engagement - FRIGNTENING STUFF Paul
This thread will not die...Paul I do not know the 6 F techs you talked to but I am sure I could find you6 who either do not know what it does or do not think it is locks the big nut. You are paul engineeing right? I'm not sure what that means but to me engineering means a certain amount of school to achieve a degree in engineering be it biomedical to mechanical etc. Then a person takes that knowledge and engineers stuff to achieve design goals. As an engineering company can you explain to me in lay person terms or even semi technical ones how this little nut can lock the big one? It just does not make any engineering sence to me and I have a good mind to pull this little nut off my car...race it and prove that the big nut will not be effected. FerrariFixer is well respected here and I don't think from his posts on this issue that he thinks it locks the bignut. I have never seen such an arangement used in industry maybe you have. I am not an engineer and I am not a ferrari mechanic but I think I have gotten pretty far in the areas of things Ferrari. As as to what I think about this nut please look at my pictures and my posts. I think they say it all either in words or in pictures take your pick.
FBB, In laymans terms the grub screw is adding extra force onto the flywheel bolt thread and thus making the need for more torque to loosen the thread of the flywheel bolt. Seeing that we are packing up for Christmas, we had a little time on our hands today to set up a practical experiment. It the attached picture you will find a boss that has the same thread as the flywheel. The flywheel bolt was torqued up to 150lb/ft and no grub screw was fitted - the amount of torque to loosen the bolt was obviously slightly over the 150lb/ft. We then tightened the flywheel bolt back up again to 150lb/ft and torqued the grub screw down to 60lb/ft and tried to loosen the flywheel nut at progressive stages of torque. It was not until we reached 225lb/ft that the bolt started to loosen off. Cheers Paul Image Unavailable, Please Login
Ferrari 348 please do not hate me but I think you may have some problems with your tool. To use your tool you need to remove the studs that hold the cap if the handle will not clear the studs. That is extra work. Did you heat treat this tool? If you have steel fingers welded on this cap they may just break off. Making it an air tool makes it easier to use than a hand tool. How do you hold the flywheel and bellhouse to tighten? You don't have to if it is air impact. If you assemble the FW pack as I described above then you need to put the car in gear and block wheels and tighten against the gearbox teeth? Not too sure I like that. If you find a way to hold the assembly and tighten before and put the entire pumpkin on the car you have a much greater (but possible) level of difficulty aligning the input and clutch shaft with the assembly. Then you will have to get the assebly over the piolet bearing in an odd position which means pulling a few studs and inserting longer bolts to pull the pumpkin to the gearbox flange. Why do I know this? Because I have done it this way. Anyway, what I would do to your tool is cut the handle off and weld an old 1/2" socket to it so you can use it in an impact gun. I would even weld an old bearing race to the fingers so they would not brake off and hardend the whole thing. This is a picture of my very first 348 homemade Ferrari tool. I have had it since 1992 and it has worked on countless 348 ringnuts and is quite beat up. It consists of scrap metal and bearing race and an old socket. Welded when I had no welding skill and hardened with kasnet. It was something I needed at the time and never thought I would still have it in service. The hardening is a critical step for long-term use. If your fingers look like they are starting to yield stop and harden with this stuff and your tool may still work. Your tool sure looks nice though and my work without hardening if the finger are really hard and the welding did not anneal them. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fatbillybob,how could i hate you big fella??hehe! Yeah man,i did remove the 4 studs that hold the cap on,took around 2 mins,thats what i had to do to remove the flywheel bolt the 1st time. With an impact socket set up,it woulda been way easier,of course,but i did not have that tool made up at the time,we used"other" methods to remove the bolt. At my mates workshop,he had a broken input shaft from a gearbox,thats around 20yrs old(not sure from what car it is),that suited the spline in the clutch plates,so we put it in the vice,then sat on the clutch/bellhousing assembley. It was locked tight in the vice,then and we removed the ****en tight bolt! Man it was tight,had heaps of loctite on it too! Maybe could take the handle off and weld a socket over it and use the impact gun,but it will be ok i think mate? I will let you know anyways boys!
Well how cool is that! I don't understand how that little screw multiplies the force but wow. I totally stand corrected. I'm going to have a piece of pizza now.
A quick update boys! My Redline Shockproof gearbox oil has arrived!! Still getting the ferrarifixer to put together my race spec clutch kit! Ill keep you's posted!! Can someone give me a drive of their 348?? Im having withdrawal symptoms! I need to drive the ****en thing!!! LOL
Hey there Phil,yeah,i got the 1 gallon bottle and not pictured is the little quart bottle. I have around 4.7 litres of it. Im sure the manual says 4.5 litres is needed.Ill get the clutch in it 1st,so i can drive it around to get the oil hot to change it,to get most of the old **** out. I had no troubles at all getting the oil. There are heaps of shops that import it and it was a breeze. Although,it took a week longer (no hurry though) because they did not have the quart bottle i needed. Do you use this oil in all your gearbox overhauls/services ect...?? Ive read alot about it and how good it is for this box? Looking at the service history i got with the car,Shell 70/90 gearbox oil has been used its entire life. The renowned 1st-2nd gear change isnt too bad in mine (tounge in cheek) LOL Cheers
You can do a good oil change while stationary... seeing as it's not run for a while now, and wont for a while, just pull the drain plug out and let it drain for days. You'll get a better change than doing a hot one.
Yeah,i could do that too. I was just thinking of doing it that way,because the gearbox oil is thicker than engine oil. I reckon it would be better to get it up to normal operating temp,then drain it for a few hours or so? Im sure that more would come out that way? But either which way,it wouldnt really matter of course.
Krikey you bloomin nutters! The setscrew is the lock for the ringnut. That's it. That's all. Means you do not need to put extreme torque on the ring nut. Just tighten it (with the lock setscrew backed out or not even installed if you prefer), tighten the lock setscrew to positively lock the ringnut and secure the lock setscrew with a dab of medium locktite and that's that. Then when you disassemble the mess, just unscrew the setscrew and the ring nut comes out nice and easy. Sheesh!
BS. All it is is the lock for the ring nut. I got so damn high on brake cleaner tonight cleaning out contaminated Kluber, that Enzo's ghost came and told me. He was laughing at how the English speaking mechanics never get things straight because they always go by what they heard instead of just looking at the design and seeing how it works. Plus the Italians never translate accurately cause they could care less what we do to the cars.
"....you do not need to put extreme torque on the ring nut...." Please tell us how much torque we should actually apply to the ring nut, so that we do it correctly. It's such a bore having to use a heavy duty impact wrench or a long breaker bar to remove it. Edit: Looking back at your posts, I really can't tell whether they are supposed to be totally sarcastic, or only partially sarcastic. Sorry.
