After much searching through past posts I’d thought I’d ask the wealth of knowledge here I recently purchased a 348 spider and really pleased with it. I’ve always noticed it was lumpy and having recently had belts and service before me buying it expected it to be ok. How wrong I was the lumpy feeling feels more like a miss fire Cleaned all plugs and found one oily and traced back. The leads going into the coil on the right bank 1 -4 had lots of tipex on suggesting previous work. The leads we set at the standard 348 set up that’s usually indicated by a sticker. After lots of messing about I swapped two over as a test and the engine suddenly felt better. Then on closer inspection my coil on the left is different to the right. And the firing order layout is different. I’ve ordered new ends ( old one were forced on the nine standard coil and broken ) what’s the thinking will the module send the pulse to the number indicated on the coil ? I’ve ordered a new coil too. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Try a set of NGK Iridium DR8EIX . I had intermittent stumbling and even bank shut down on the RHS bank 1-4 .With the odd “ slow down light . I have a infra red temp gauge (£15 from e ) bay . So with this you can seek out identify temp differences. The effected bank was cooler at the CAT , hence the odd light . When it was really bad I got 220*C from the good side and something like 70*C on the RHS 1-4 . So I did what have done working on the principal of separate symmetric engines - started to swop the coils . Yes one plug was particularly black compared to the other 4 on the RHS . Made no difference to the temps , the RHS was still cooler .So I knew it wasn’t the coil or ignition modules as i swapped those too . Next up the ing wires . They looked good even in the dark and I selectively pulled them one by one with the engine running to see what effect . The RHS ( even the black plug ) hardly made a difference. So I bought the iridium’s £100 for 8 . The ones in , car is in 25 K and a 94 SP we’re probably OEM s and Mr Google said available for Ducati bike ….so old they were . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login OEM plugs ^ . Use a 16 mm socket . I had to buy a suitable new 18 mm plug socket as the iridium s are bigger , proper car plug size . In they went and that was the end of all my woes . No stumbling, no intermittent “ slow down “ lights flickering , no bank shut down . Gained a whole load of low down power , smooth ness and even a proper scream right up to 7700 rpm . The low down bit is so much so that in first I just now let the clutch out without actually depressing the accelerator. There’s enough power to roll the car with theses fresh plugs . I think the 320 Hp vs have a higher compression ratio and more sensitive to plug health .More than other petrols . With the NGK Iridium DR8EIX I just fitted them . There’s threads and arguments on gapping them but they came with 0.6 mm so bal, park as I didn’t want to introduce another variable ie a comprised tip into the equation .Reading around the subject - copper to iridium….they use different rules so you can’t export the copper rules into iridium. So I just threw them in as is out of the box . As far as the coil and ingition modules I did buy spares from e bay , NAPA ( Birmingham U.K. ) for about £100 for the 4 .The cars still on the original marelli stuff . Carry as spares . I also carry a pair of Kia crank sensors FWIW . The cars off to Switzerland for a month in Sept . It’s fully shaken down . Edit - forgot to mention the end caps on the old plugs were loose I could undo them with fingers . The iridium s come without so I had to transfer across….and tighten them up with a 18 m m spanner on the plug and pliers on the cap . Not sure if the loose caps were part of the original issue ? CAT light flickered bcz of the un burnt fuel in the CAT s from the miss firing all be it intermittently.
Hey thanks for the advice. In my situation it’s definitely the incorrect coil I have fitted but yiur spot on about the plugs. Mine is on 28 k miles campion plugs and no doubt old. I’ve ordered everything via super performance so hoping the quality is ok and the plug are as you said ngk Just very strange having a very random coil in its ruined all the lead and a complete bodge up with every lead in the wrong position. I’m amazed it even ran.
For comparison. No idea how old the parts are . There is nothing in the 12 yrs of history that came with the car about these . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Also may not be related but here are pics of the after mkt fuel pressure regulators . Fitted ( according to the history circa 2015 ) . Image Unavailable, Please Login Reasoning have posted this bcz the ex factory trained + Marenello @ Egham tech told me on 348 s the FPR s are troublesome and the OEM s and / or replacement are crap ……so they go for these and end of various running issues . Not saying yours are bad just giving the heads up of where to dig next after your parts throwing fest on the electrical / spark side .
[ Hi. Yes I’m ordering from super performance so hopefully they have a some standards Your coil looks original it’s the same as my left hand bank. And on that one the leads fit a treat. A nice healthy clic. I then think I will clear the faults in the ecu before restarting by removing the battery terminal. QUOTE="Portofino, post: 150237135, member: 109320"]For comparison. No idea how old the parts are . There is nothing in the 12 yrs of history that came with the car about these . View attachment 3868729 View attachment 3868730 View attachment 3868731 Also may not be related but here are pics of the after mkt fuel pressure regulators . Fitted ( according to the history circa 2015 ) . View attachment 3868732 Reasoning have posted this bcz the ex factory trained + Marenello @ Egham tech told me on 348 s the FPR s are troublesome and the OEM s and / or replacement are crap ……so they go for these and end of various running issues . Not saying yours are bad just giving the heads up of where to dig next after your parts throwing fest on the electrical / spark side .[/QUOTE]
There’s a battery cut off switch by the LHS headlight . Lift the fuse cover . It sits above the batt compartment. So no need to actually get to the battery and start removing connectors.
